Brand new toilet. With literally zero slack in the chain, I still need to hold down the flush valve for a couple of seconds to get a full flush. Is this normal? Don't know what else to try. I notice that the flush cylinder tends to sink like a rock after I relieve tension on the chain. I've got it set to 1.6 gpf. The Kohler installation instructions are not very helpful.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the fill valve is not letting water in you either have a float that raises up when water is full so when you flush the float drops down letting water in then when water raises it shuts off i would replace the float fill valve and corky flapper.... here is what you do .... first shut water off where it goes up to the tank....... flush commode to empty as much water from tank....... reach up under tank there is a plastic coupling that connects the water supply line to the bottom of the toilet tank...put a small pan under the shut off valve that goes to the toilet some water is going to drain from the tank when you take the coupling loose..... turn the coupling counter clockwise ( use a channel lock adjustable wrench to loosten then had turn) once this is loose you can pull the riser tube away from the tank...... now there is a plastic nut that screws the shaft to the bottom of the tank loosten with channel lock then remove with hand by turning counter clock wise ( you will get a bunch of water flowing down to the pan) remove the entire fill valve , replace with a fluidmaster fill valve ( about 8 bucks from big box store when you take the new fill valve out of the box there is a neopreme seal you must put on the new threaded shaft ( it has an inner ring you may have to punch out) once you put this on you can insert the entire shaft down through the hole in tank then secure with thin nut provided tighten but do not overtighten then put coupling back on,,,,,put the over flow tube on the tit of the fill valve and stick down into over flow ok thats done when you go to big box store purchas a 5 buck corky flapper (red caus it can handle chlorine water better) remove the old one at bottom of tank( just two clips to remove and chain attached to flush lever...install new one be shure chain does not have a lot of slack so it does not fall under flapper seal when you flush......OK YOU ARE DONE TURN WATER ON WATCH TANK FILL LOOK FOR LEAKS TAKE A TOWEL AND DRY ALL AREAS THEN TAKE YOUR HAND AND FEEL FOR LEAKS UNDER TANK AND DOWN TO SHUT OFF VALVE .....CONGRATS YOU DID IT!
It may be the wax ring expanded and is restricting the flow.
If you did not install the unit FYI ..the wax ring is inserted between the toilet and the waste pipe to prevent leakage. Sometimes it moves out of place when the toilet gets installed and blocks the flow
I can't answer your question about the part from the #6 fitting the # 5 because I don't remember. I think it will but they were haveing trouble with the older one breaking down due to chlorine and other water treatment chemicals.I Thank you.
A couple of thing's to check the fill tube in the tank is it connected from the fill valve to over flow. This fill's th ebowl up with the required amount of water.
Next is the water filling to the line on the fill tube with in 5/8 " from top of tube. Adjust the float to get it with in the fill amount required.
The chain on the flapper need's some slack, you just have to move it a little till it get's adjusted right. Water level low in the tank will affect the flapper also.
Which style of flush valve do you have? If it is the dual-flush option (solids/liquids) I do not know how to adjust those. If you have a traditional style, then the flapper or ball is closing too soon. You need to adjust the guide arm (flush ball) higher or shorten the chain between the flapper and the handle. Adjust this carefully or you will have it fail to seat and the toilet will constantly run.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (who needed to replace the fill valve and the flapper at her home earlier this week)
there is too much slack in the chain. when the handle is at rest, there should be very little slack in the chain. and when you flush, don't slam the handle. also, if the handle is all the way down when you flush and the flapper is being pulled too high, leave a one link slack. and the hook that holds the chain, clamp it closed to avoid the chain getting rehooked on it.
One of two things is the problem. First, make sure that you have a tight chain with little slack. If there's too much slack, the flapper won't catch in the passing air to stay up. Second, the flapper is not correct for that style of toilet. You might want to look into purchasing a new Kolby filter that has a removeable cone in the center. Move that cone to 12 o'clock to allow the maximum amount of water to run through the flush valve. If the flapper you have now is flat, it needs to have a cone in the center on the underside.
You have two issues inside of the toilet tank. The holding down the button is caused by your chain not being tight enough from the handle to the flapper. Take the slack out of that and replace the flapper. The second is that you need to replace the fill valve. This is what is making the noise when the tank is being refilled, and will have to be adjusted after it is installed.
Please remember to rate this.