Question about Hotpoint Dryers
Originally the dryer had power, but was not heating. Replaced cord thinking it was defective since it was a used part. When new cord was replaced dryer had no power. Rechecked installment of cord, still no power. Replaced new cord for another new cord, still no power. Circuit breaker has been checked, no fuses in home. We have not pressed reset button nor checked dryer's thermostat, fuse or power button, Need instructions as to how to get to and check items mentioned. Thanks for your support.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: no power
THese diagrams may help some
Dryer NO Power
You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts
Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few
I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,
If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.
Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a..
Hi-limit fuse that need to be checked for Continuity and replaced if bad
if you dont have a ohm meter you can hook the wires together
with a small piece of wire and by pass the themostates and hi limit fuse to see if thats the problem or not
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
most dryers have a thermal switch or breaker in the cavity somewhere, they can become worn over time and will stop heating, the item probably looks like a copper arm that touches a contact similar to a old morse code key by looks
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. These two components work in conjunction the control the temperature of the heating circuitry. NOTE: If you are having repeated problems with heating circuit failures, I would recommend you inspect the entire length of the dryer exhaust vent ducting to esnure it is not kinked or clogged anywhere. Follow up with an inspectin of the dryer interior cabniet. A dryer in a clogged state will actually overheat to the point of failure. Most commonly the TCO fails. Eventually this will lead to heating element failure.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
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