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This is a list of All the parts you need, I don't know about a schematic?
1 Maple Neck ? 1 11" wood rim ? 1 11" notched tension hoop ? 1 Flat head alloy tone ring (Optional bell brass available) ? 1 Resonator (not included in the open back kit) ? 1 11" Remo frosted banjo head ? 1 Arm Rest
? 2 Coordinator rods with hanger bolts (one longer than the other)
? 1 "L" shaped tailpiece bracket (may be attached to coordinator rods) ? 1 5th string nut
? 4 Guitar style tuners (planetary tuners optional) ? 1 Geared 5th string tuning machines
? 24 Shoe style lugs with bolts and washers ? 24 Hooks and nuts ? 1 Nut, pre notched ? 4 Resonator plates ? 4 Brass inserts (brass anchors that are threaded on the inside) ? 4 Resonator bolts (knurled on the outside with a Phillips screwdriver receiver on
? 1 5 string bridge
? 1 Gary Price style Tailpiece ? 1 Set of strings
? 22 Pre-cut (ready to install) frets
? 1 Truss rod cover (including three screws)
The only chance I see is if you can get a copy of the Sam's Photofact book based on model number which has the entire schematic and or parts list for most of these radios.
To see which of the plus 290 published books may have that radio in it GOOGLE Howard w.Sam's photofact INDEX which under Uniden will have a list of models ---one of which may have your radio (likely similar model Cobra may also exist with a different model number.)
Sams was once the benchmark for schematics on all radios made from the beginning in the USA.
If the wires have been clipped/reattached take a close look to make sure all the colors on them match---some may be identical in color which means you would with the schematic have to trace each to see if hooked up right.
Hi, I don't know if you are still having a problem, but it sound like the flame sensor on the unit is dirty and need to be cleaned. If it has a automatic pilot, it will have a flame sensor. Its made of porcelin with a metal rod coming out the end, laying next to the pilot flame. Just 1 screw holds it in place. Remove it and clean the tip with steel wool or a piece of sanding cloth. If you don't have this set up, I would need more info on the unit, model and serial number. You may also have a faulty thermostat, but I do believe it is a flame sensor. Shastalaker7
You didn't say what year or model your bike is but if it's one built later than 1992, it probably has a turn signal cancelling unit rather than the old style "flasher unit" for the turn signals. The module for the turn signals is a lot more sensitive than the old style flasher. If you changed the resistance the unit sees or the wiring for the unit, the turn signals may not work. What you've done basically is taken the ground loop out of the turn signal module and coverted the lights to a frame ground. The ground is no longer through the TSM unit. If this is the case, the turn signals are probably not going to work. If you'll contact me directly at email@example.com and tell me what year and model bike you're working on, I may can supply you with more information such as troubleshooting guide and a schematic of your bike possibly.
Just from what I can tell by looking at the watch, it doesn't appear to have pin-style links. Most fancy ladies' watches do not use pin-style links, they use screws. It's pretty easy to distinguish the difference by looking at one end of the pin in the hole. Screws have a slot for a flat head screw and you can see that they are solid like a regular screw. The other end of the pin will look flat. A split-pin is comprised of a piece of metal folded in two, On one end is a very thin ****, but it's very easy to tell it's not a screw and the other end is rounded where the metal is folded in two. If it is, as I suspect, a screw-type pin, you will need a set of precision screwdrivers. They are very inexpensive and you can get them at any department or hardware store. Here's an article that explains everything you need to know about the different styles of common watch link pins and how to change them.
There are 2 types of clamps that hold the blade in that type of saw.
Since this is an older one it most likely has the type where the blade is held in place with a set screw and a "U" shaped piece of metal that holds the blade tight against the shaft. There should be a screw hole in the shaft of the saw. The blade rest next to the shaft and then the metal piece clamps the blade against the shaft. This is all held in place by a set screw that screws into the shaft. This screw uses a hex key to remove and tighten it.
If your tool doesn't have this style then it should have a twisting clamp. This will rotate and release the blade. Sometimes a pliers is needed to loosen the collar, but not to tight tho.