Question about Music
Roland r8 composer digital screen shows nothng. All I get is a flashing green light.
Are you using the correct AC adapter? An aftermarket unit will do this if the power is insufficient, or the polarity is wrong (- / +). If you're using an aftermarket unit, it may not be providing the right amount of Amps and Voltage to the unit; causing the display to blink. You can try this cord to help: http://www.powerpayless.com/ac-power-adapter-for-roland-r-8-r8-drum-machine.html
Posted on Jan 14, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I need a transformer part 32 no:11-32-000 class 2 ac power transformer mod:mw48-090200a Input:120 ac 60hz output:9vac 2000ma.
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Posted on Apr 23, 2009
It sounds as if the membrane under the key needs to be replaced. It can be done with some careful work yourself but you might want to consider having it serviced by a Roland dealer as apparently the parts are becoming scarce. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
Here is the spec sheet for the Roland E-09:http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.php?ProductId=828 The Roland E-14 was manufactured in 1996 and the specifications are not easily available on the internet. If you are considering buying one (E-14) make sure it is in good shape with everything working and you can get it cheaper than a new E-09. If you really want to compare you will have to find a manual for a E-14 and download a manual for a E-09 and compare the features side by side. If you have an E-14 and are considering purchasing a new E-09 find a local dealer who is selling the new one and see if you can take yours there and compare them side by side. Comparison should be a personal decision. I might like a Chev and you might like a Ford. You pretty much have to decide for yourself. If you are buying one look at your budget and compare other keyboards with similar features. Also consider whether the amount of playing you will do might justify saving up some money to buy a higher end Roland if you are particular to Roland. Let me know if this helps.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
Power off the unit. Disconnect all cables that plug into the speaker base if you have one - It may be wise to document the individual wires to make their reinstallation easier. Remove the unit from the speaker stand and lay it on the floor on something like an old towel - you may get some dark colored grease on the rug. Remove the screws only for the bottom rear, not the front - you don't need to remove them. Do this by gently turning the unit upside down. Only remove the screws from the sides/rear bottom, and note which screw types you removed from where. Once all bottom rear screws are removed gently return the unit right side up. now pivot the top rear cover - the sides of the cover are attached to the rear - pivot it toward the back. No need to remove the ribbon cables - just let the top lay there or prop it up with something if the ribbon cables don't have enough slack for the top cover to lay flat on its back. You should now be looking at all of the keys uncovered. notice the rear of each key is where it hinges. You'll notice the grease at the hinge point. The keys are thin plastic so you must take care not to damage them. The way to remove a key is to spread the ears at the hinge point of the key you want to remove. I use a screwdriver sharpened to a point, but a large pair of needle nose pliers work good too. You insert the tapered point of the tool between the ears gently to spread them far enough to just clear the pins. Once they are spread wide enough you'll feel them disengage. Each key also has two hooks located side by side towards the front of the key on the bottom side - they are not visable until the hinge is released, but you must realise they are there or you'll either snap the key back onto the hinge or not be able to pull the key out once you've got it off the hinge. Pivot the key towards you to remove it. What you now have in your hand is not the defective part. You have the top that is touched when playing the keyboard. The defective part is still setting in the mechanism. What's actually happened is the keys are made of very thin plastic where they are glued around the weight and this plastic breaks leaving the weighted end down there somewhere. Examine where the key top came from and how it works. The key top is the part you took off of the hinge. You can see how the keys on each side work and you'll also see what is missing from the mechanism for the key you're working on. To make things easier I always remove one additional key top on each side of a key that I repair to make access easier. Just place the other keys you remove right behind the key area in the order you took them off so it'll be obvious how they go back on. Now the broken weighted mechanism you can lift right out. Actually you can lift it out easier with the weighted end broken off, but once you glue it back together you can still get it in there without to much trouble. You only need to remove the damaged weighted mechanism for the key you're repairing. I remove the key tops on each side of the damaged key for visability only. Take your pair of needle nose pliers and pick out the broken end. Now fit it onto the end of the weighted mechanism in preparation for glueing - just so you can see how it's going to go on there. I use a high quality modeling super glue. Before I came across this glue I used JB Weld, but it takes a few hours to dry. The high quality super glue allows you to put everything back together immediately. Installation is reverse of removal: Snake the weighted mechanism back in once you've repaired it - you can always examine those on each side if you get confused. Hook the key top front first then smoothly snap in place the hinge ears over the pins. Make sure to check the movement of the repaired key, and check also to see if anymore keys are setting lower as they may be in process of breaking off. Once all keys are repaired, carefull lower the top rear cover onto the key assembly. While holding the cover onto the key assembly/base, gently turn the unit over onto its back and reinstall the screws. Should be all washer headed screws - do not over tighten. Check the keys again. Set the keyboard onto its base (if it came with one) and you're done. A little practice and it'll take you less than a half hour to fix the key and get it back together
Posted on Sep 23, 2010
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