Question about GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

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I have a admiral washing machine aav7000aww clothes deep coming out wet and had to be spun again. How making noise could this problem be caused by a bad bearing on the pump? The machine seems to be froze up now. Removed the pump and it does not spin very freely. I am able to move pulleys on the motor and tub. Thanks for your help.

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Yes, the pump should turn pretty easily. Mechanical pumps are generally pretty tuff though. Does it feel ballsy at all when you turn it? It should feel smooth, but it shouldn't spin fast like a top either. Of coarse, if it's quiet in your hand it should be quiet on the machine.

Make sure you check the hoses that you removed from the pump. There could be a sock or bra underwire stuck in the one coming from the tub. You might even try shining a flashlight up the hose and see if you can see it from the inside of the inner basket. A sock can be between the inner and outer tub but covering the drain hole. They make a racket and cause other chaos. With the pump off it's the perfect time to get it out before it moves to an unreachable spot, that requires dismantling. Check the basket closely with a nice bright light, if it's really jambed in there you may see it poking thru the basket holes. Let me know what you find.

Posted on Jan 13, 2013

  • 23 more comments 
  • Scott Patterson Jan 14, 2013

    Thanks BH for getting back with me. The pump doesn't spin very freely, I was able to see the light I shined up the tub hose, the other looks clear to. I sprayed the movable motor mounts with a little silicon spray. It seemed to help the belt move back after I squeezed it. I reinstalled the belt and started a load now it wasn't doing anything and smell like something was getting hot so I turned it off. After which I pulled the pump off for a closer look ho;e I didn't do any damaged on that last try. Can I test the electric motor and tub, it would help to know they were ok. Thanks for your help. Scott

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 15, 2013

    Generally a mechanical pump like yours will not "freeze-up" the machine; allthough, if all conditions were right it no doubt could, like if the motor was getting weak. I've had some pumps that were genuinely hard to turn and had to be replaced. Usually though they get replaced because they start to leak water out of a hole (I call it a weep-hole) that is strategically placed and on every mechanical pump i've ever seen--i think. Since i can't physically examine your pump I'm hesitant about it. Keep in mind it will not "spin freely" at all. You have to turn it to move it, but but every turn should feel smooth & not require much finger to pully grip.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 15, 2013

    When i suspect a weak motor might be the problem i unplug the machine, remove the motor and the belt, then reach in and turn the pulley at the bottom of the transmission. If you turn one way it's the spin direction, turn the other it's agitate. You'll be able to tell when you do it. Besides the action of the transmission you want to watch for a wobbly pulley or the tub coming to a sudden hard stop. Keep in mind there could still be a sock between the tubs. Use your ears and listen for sounds that shouldn't be there. Smooth is the sound you want to hear. With the motor and belt out of the machine the inner tub should spin almost like a top and coast to a smooth stop. But don't try to make it do that from the pulley below, you'll get all banged up. Just stand up and give the basket a spin. If all seems good then i really give the motor a thorough visual check. Look for signs of burning or arcing and toothbrush all that dust off the ends. Give it a smell; is it the source of the "...smell like something was getting hot" ? Or is that smell coming from the belt? Stay with me...

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 15, 2013

    The hot smell almost certainly came from one or the other. The cluster of wires at the top of your motor is the motor\'s switch. I have some motors that work like yours, but i have some 1 phase motors that use a start relay and some that use a capacitor. Basically these provide an additional boost of electricity to get the motor spinning really fast at the proper time. Yours i think, is a two phase motor. Instead of relying on a capacitor or relay it has a switch that provides more power via another hot wire. I phase motors have one hot wire and a capacitor or relay. Two phase motors have two hot wire and a switch, I think. I keep saying "i think" because i\'m just learning about motors phases and capacitors and such so a guy that "knows" would probably laugh at my sad explanation of 1 & 2 phase motors. Since i don\'t know everything there is to know about them i test them the dangerous way. I cannot recommend this method to you, in fact if you do as i do you may be sorry. Before resorting to this method if the machine has a relay or capacitor and signs of a weak motor i change those first and test the machine. They are after all the most likely cause of motor weakness, also my test method does not account for the condition of the starters. So what i do is set the motor on it\'s side but close enough to plug into the machine. There should be a ground to frame wire on the motor and i hook it up as well. Turn the control knob to spin, open the lid and start the cycle. With the lid open the motor will just sit there. If you close the lid however the motor will jerk to life. I use those old railroad style gloves for this, gray suede leather with a striped hard canvas wrist protector. I put the right glove on and place the left glove in my gloved right hand so that the canvas top part is in my palm and the fingers of the glove are pointing towards my right elbow (because i do not want those fingers to come in contact with the motors spinning pully.) Then i close the lid to start the motor. I place my left hand strategically on the motor housing so that i can apply downward pressure to keep the motor from traveling around. I then take my canvas covered palm of my gloved right hand and carefully apply open palmed pressure to the spinning pulley. It takes all of two seconds to decide (but no more than that) if it slows significantly or stops it\'s weak. Lift the lid. Unplug the machine.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 15, 2013

    B.H. I will pull the motor tomorrow and take a look and check how the inner tub spins. when I turned it on today to see if the motor would turn it's pulley it just hummed so I turned it right off. I'll let you know what i find. Thanks for your help. Scotte

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 15, 2013

    Everytime i perform that stunt i say to myself over and over that next time i'll use my multimeter or set up a better system. Perhaps with a jig and a belt to apply pressure safely, but i always end up...well, you know.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 18, 2013

    If a guy was to use a analog multimeter to check to see if the motor was ok. What would that look like? I have access to the motor now. Thanks for your help.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 19, 2013

    Try this: Or This:

  • Scott Patterson Jan 19, 2013

    B. H Thanks for the links, very helpful. Let you know how it goes. Scott

  • Scott Patterson Jan 25, 2013

    Hello I tryed the rope trick to dee if the motor would start up, it did not. There are many wires coming from the windings not sure which one s to check. I looked at the wiring schematic found in the washer could not see clearly two wire colors from the motor. I took the motor to a shop who rebuilds them and they said it check out ok. I have not found a capacitor on the motor or the washer not sure it has one. I found the two set of points on the motor itself and a devise on the motor also with a orange and blue wire attached to it rectangular 1 1/4" x 2" x 5/16" thick maybe a thermal protection devise. It tested ok. Would like to find the capacitor and test it if there if one. Thanks for any input out there. Scott

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 25, 2013

    If the motor is single phase then there is a capacitor or start relay. The timer behind the control panel will have a red wire coming from it that should lead to the capacitor.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 26, 2013

    B.H. The red wire coming from the timer goes to the wiring block on the motor. I took the cover off the block to expose the 2 sets of points like they use in cars the red wire goes to the first set of these points.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    Does the motor say it is single phase? How do the points look? Are they splashy and mashed? Does it look like the motor can come apart or is it a welded case that can't be opened?

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    By the way here are some exploded views and parts for your machine. I don't see a capacitor here either. But in the wire diagram it shows a capacitor. Maybe i just missed it:

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    It looks like your start capacitor is in the motor. There should be a BLUE wire from the timer that goes to the capacitor.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 26, 2013

    B.H. thank you for your input. The blue wire comes from inside the motor and run to that small thin devise with the numbers 801 on it. If the capacitor is inside the motor then how is it serviced with out taking the motor apart. There is an asterisk on the wiring diagram that says * Capacitor used with alternate capacitor start motor. I'm not sure what that's saying. Any idea what the small black devise with the blue label with the number 801 is. It is 1 3/8" wide 1" tall and 1/4" thick? Scott

  • Scott Patterson Jan 26, 2013

    On the wiring schematic the devise I was asking about is seen I don't recognize the symbol it say PROT any idea what that means?

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    I'm assuming it is the start capacitor, remember though i am no motor expert. It seems like the rebuilding shop would have had the ability to check that as part of the "ok" diagnosis they gave the motor. If the motor comes apart and the pulley is removable you might be able to replace parts in it. But, be careful around capacitors, they can hold a charge even with no power going to the machine and knock you on your rear or worse. I'm actually starting to think the answer to your problem lies elsewhere. Like maybe in the wire bundle that goes to the motor? Do you have a way to check the continuity of the wires?

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    My comment above was for your earlier comment. Hang on and i'll see about the PROT thingy.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    I'm thinking PROT might be the "thermal protection."

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    The thermal protection shuts the motor down if it get's too hot. Then resets itself when motor cools back down.

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 26, 2013

    Since the motor checked ok, let's assume it is and look for the trouble elsewhere. Can you check the wiring?

  • B.H. Countryman Jan 27, 2013

    This could easily be a timer issue.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 27, 2013

    Put the washer back together. Took the water pump apart as far as I could put it back together. beat it against the work bench pulley side down which fixed it's ruff turning finished reassembling the washer turned it on nothing but humming. I think I'm done for a while.

  • Scott Patterson Jan 28, 2013

    I think we reached the final chapter in this saga. with turning the water off and on I had forgotten to turn it back on when I did wall. It is working fine I ran a load through it and the cloths same out rung out. Banging on that water pump must have got whatever was out of wack right again is working fine how about that. Thank you very much for your input B.H. Signing off God Bless you. Scott



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SOURCE: washer will not agitate or spin


you can view this site to have some ideas about your agitator problem.

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Posted on Mar 29, 2009

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regards jonno

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