Black marks on clothing at completion of drying cycle
We find small black marks on the laundry at the completion of the drying cycle. The black marks can be removed with soap and water. Prior to each load of laundry we remove and clean the lint filter and wipe down the entire dryer drum with a damp cloth. When wiping around the felt drum gaskets with a damp cloth we get similar black marks seen on the laundry. No matter how many times we wipe around the drum gasket, we are unable to completely get rid of the black residue. Some black marks show up on items in every load of laundry.
We have inspected the clothes out of the washer to make sure the washer was not leaving the black marks.
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Re: black marks on clothing at completion of drying cycle
Is the residue coming from the back or front of the drum? Most dryers are equipped with 2 drum roller supports in the rear under the drum. You may have a drum roller that is going bad and some of the rubber residue is getting past the drum seal. Some dryers are quipped with an additional pair of drum rollers under the front of the drum as well. I would check all the drum rollers to see if they are all in good shape. A definite symptom of a bad drum roller is finding black residue along the outside of the drum where the rollers ride. You will have to open the dryer cabinet to see the outside of the drum. Also, check the rear drum seal to make sure it is not crimped or folded inwards in the drum. The felt seal in the back should should ride evenly all the way around the drum and should not be that visible inside the drum itself. That is, you may see some of the seal, but you shouldn't see part of it folded inside the drum or bits of it tattered or torn. I hope this makes sense to you. Let me know if this helps.
Re: black marks on clothing at completion of drying cycle
I had this problem also. My repairman replaced the drum and rollers two times over the course of a year. When the marks came back a third time I finally got a replacement dryer from LG. Just had the replacement installed and the installer said the problem is caused by using dryer sheets. He said the ozone system in the dryer breaks down the chemicals in the dryer sheets. Doesn't really explain why the problem seems to be fixed then reappears
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Regularly clean the top and door of the washer to prevent the buildup of dirt and detergent. When you wash very linty materials, remove lint from the tub after removing the laundry. Soap deposits may cause laundry to smell bad. To solve this problem, fill the tub with water and add 1 pound of water softener or 1 gallon of white vinegar; then run the machine through the complete wash cycle. If the deposits are really bad, wash the inside of the tub with a solution of household ammonia and mild detergent. Rinse thoroughly and wipe the tub with liquid bleach. Caution: Rinse the tub thoroughly before wiping it out with bleach. Ammonia and bleach can combine to form a very dangerous gas.
Finally, run the machine through a complete wash cycle before you put any more laundry in.
Same thing happened to me... Was ready to purchase a new remote and decided to take remote apart first and see if it could be fixed: In battery compartment, remove small screw. With small flat precision screw driver separate the black from grey part of remote starting with the larger side of remote (do not force open anything!). Then do the same from the other side of the remote, moving slowly (without forcing) towards the middle of the remote, prying open both sides of the remote delicately. Finally, from battery side, push down on battery springs which should allow you to take remote apart completely. Remove small black rubber washer holding motherboard, allowing removal of motherboard completely.
With a dry cloth gently wipe motherboard down. Clean the rest of the remote (NOT motherboard) with warm water and soap. (After a few years, inside remote accumulates sweat and dirt ! Use paper towel to dry inside part of remote first as best as possible. Finish by blow drying thoroughly every part that was washed with soap and water. Wipe down again the motherboard removing all type of humidity and possible greasy layer that may have accumulated through the years. Put remote back together by snapping every part back in place (much easier than taking apart). Don't forget to insert black square part, black rubber washer and little screw in battery compartment. Once this is done, make sure bottom black switch of remote is pushed to desired position (TV for me). Your remote should work properly, on/off button should also work properly. Don't forget TV has 2 setting for On/off switch, one normal the other something like "power saving" which requires user to press on/off button for a few seconds. This definitely worked for me, hope this works for you :)
Remove the lint screen from the dryer. If you are unsure how
to remove the lint trap, refer to your owner's manual, as removal
directions vary among Maytag models.
Use your fingers to remove large chunks of lint from the
lint screen. You should remove the lint from the lint trap after every
Run the lint screen under the faucet. Use hot water and thoroughly wet down both sides.
Scrub both sides of the lint screen with a wet nylon scrub
brush. Rinse the screen again under hot water to remove loosened
buildup. Allow the lint screen to air-dry on a towel before putting it
back inside of the dryer.
Make a paste of powdered laundry soap and warm water into a
small bowl. Use three parts powdered detergent to one part water. Stir
with a spoon until a paste forms.
Dip a soft rag into the paste. Wipe down the entire interior
of the dirty Maytag dryer with the rag and paste. Apply more paste to
the cloth as needed.
Rinse the interior of the dryer with a damp rag to remove the paste.
Dry a load of damp towels in the Maytag dryer. Run a complete dry cycle to remove any residue left inside.
Wipe down the exterior of the dryer with a rag moistened
with all-purpose household cleaner. You can also use the household
cleaner to remove certain stains from the interior of the dryer. Make
sure the cleaner you are using is noninflammable.
Should not be any soap at all. If the soap has small shiny bubbles in it you have an oversuds problem which will cause the pump to cavitate during pump out. After setting for while the soap turns into water until the next wash. Easy fix is use 1/2 cup of liquid fabric softener and run thru complete cycle with heat dry off to dissipate all of the soap residue. Hope this helps.
Yes it does matter which cleaning solution that you use in your steam cleaner. If you use the wrong cleaning solution it may cause problems with the cleaning solutiondispensary system. Different steam cleaners use different cleaning solutions. You should always use the steam cleaner solution for your specific cleaner. I have learned this the hard (and expensive) way.
Hard to recommend this but it will work in a pinch. You can use a small amount of liquid laundry detergent diluted with hot water (about 2 table spoons to a gallon) as a stand in for the real deal. DO NOT put the laundry soap solution into the cleaning solution reservoir (the wax content will clog the soap dispensary system). Lightly apply to the area to be shampooed (do not soak). I have used a plastic coffee can with holes poked in the lid like a watering can to apply the soap solution. Use the shampooer to do the scrubbing and remove soapy water from the shampooed area. Fill your soap reservoir with clean hot water. The laundry soap does most of its job during the rinse. Go over the shampooed area with the shampooer moderately soaking the shampooed area to with the hot rinse water. Remove as much of the rinse water as possible. Liquid laundry soap has a high wax content (makes your cloths soft) and if it is not rinsed thoroughly after it is dry the remaining wax will attract dirt faster than the surrounding areas. Other than that it works for a good stand in for the properdetergent in a pinch. As a bonus it smells great.
From what I understand as unorthodox as it is, it works well in small doses, and I don't believe that it causes any damage to the other parts of the steam cleaner as steam cleaners survive drawing up worse things into them than laundry soap.
If you have a water softener or very soft water, soap will suds up more than if your water is normal or hard, so you'll need to use less than recommended. Obviously soap breaks down the dirt, but the dirt also breaks down the soap, so if your clothes are not very dirty to start with, you'll need less soap than if they were more dirty. Soap can also be stored in laundry like towels and cleaning rags and when combined with the laundry soap will suds more. You can try raising the leveling legs in the front to tip the washer back. This will help the water drain back into the tub instead of pooling on the boot. You can also try using the 'extra rinse' option. Keep cutting back on how much soap you use until your laundry is not as clean as it should be. You might be surprised how little soap you can use!
Follow-up the Nov 28 post: Just got my replacement dryer after many phone calls to LG. The installer told me that the black marks were from using dryer sheets. He said the ozone system in the dryer breaks down the chemicals in the dryer sheets. Doesn't explain why the problem seems to be fixed when roller and drum is replaced then returns after about 2-3 months.