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Internal problem an electrical short cut fries the component c516, r524 and r525, with the resistent i am fine i can make it work but the c516 is a capacitor and not look like any one else what is it they value??

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But you did not give the model number nor did you give the chassis number

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

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Amana electric dryer LE8317W2 tripped circuit breaker. Orange wire fried at end by heat element and was off terminal end. Also the purple wire was fried at thermostat end. I cleaned up connections and...


These units are totally repairable and will run for ever. Need to assume that other damage has occurred as a result of the failed shorted terminal connections.

Possible that the circuit breaker is defective caused by the dryer failure.

Assume that one of the components has shorted to the grounded frame of the dryer.

The 11 ohms of the heater is about right.

Confirm that heater element is not shorted to the dryer frame (heater housing)! This condition would have caused the initial wire terminals to fail and now trip the circuit breaker!

Use an ohm meter and check resistance between hot leads on back of dryer. Check resistance between each hot and neutral.

There is a switch located on the motor that connects power to the heater. When the motor is running the centrifugal switch closes. This saftey circuit confirms that the blower is running before heat is turned on. Check that the switch is not damaged from prior terminal short circuit failure, Repair kit is p/n WPL-501218

Timer is the next check. Same thing confirm that no damage to the switch circuits has occured. Last check thermal fuses and thermostars for short to netural.

Hope this helps?


dryer-pzl4tv25i2l2rrqnaowvcvwp-4-0.jpg

kenmore-41783042201-10-pzl4tv25i2l2rrqnaowvcvwp-4-2.jpg

Jun 25, 2017 | Amana ALE643RB Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Cut out and dies when warm


electrical components are gittn old and gainin resistence--inspect inside distributr cap for wear-clean or replace--if no remedy then getta data stream run to locate

Sep 06, 2012 | 1994 Honda Civic

1 Answer

I have a yth2448 , and when I engage the mower blades the elec. clutch is drawing to much electricity (the alternater gauge drops to negative when I pull the knob to engage the blades and its draining the...


Disconsolate the connector from the clutch. Engage the clutch circuit and see if electrical circuit still response as if shorted.

If the response is the same check wiring, switch and relay. Replace/repair defecrive component.

If the response is no problem check the clutch. Inspect the connector at the clutch for broken failed wire connection. Using an ohm meter check for short. The expected resistance is about 3 -4 ohms. If the resistance is less then 1 ohm the PTO clutch is bad. Sorry. It is the solenoid coil has an internal short. Confirm if the clutch is still in warranty.

Check for after market sources for reduced price!
s-l1600-ye4zlyuovxg25rnpc03q42bj-3-0.jpg Hope this helps?

Jun 23, 2017 | Husqvarna Riding Lawn Mower Yth24v48ls 48...

1 Answer

I have a LG Solar dom (Microwave oven). I have clean its inside 2 days ago as usual with some detergent and a wipe. Now the microwave is working . but as soon as I want to use the convenient oven it causes...


The oven has a heating resistance powering it. This heating resistance is fixed in the walls of the oven with some insulating bushes.
If, during the wash, some water has seeped in there because the bushes have aged and no longer sealing properly then the detergent in the water has acted like a short and the resulting flame has completely fried the bushing . This has now made the resistance to lose all the insulation and it's now shorting directly into the walls - such a big short is tripping even the greatest breaker in your house , the main one.
You should stop using the oven in this condition, the risks of electrocution are too high. Unplug the oven from the mains and call a repairman, he will have to completely dismantle the oven and replace the resistance and its insulating bushes - a long and expensive job.

May 31, 2011 | LG Microwave Ovens

3 Answers

Power surge or electrical outage tv blue light stays on with humming sound no picture


Hello,

Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.
Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).
If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.
TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:
  1. It will work fine, problem solved.
  2. It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives (use the series light bulb to cut your losses
  3. It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic
hope this helpout......

Jul 08, 2010 | Element Electronics Televison & Video

1 Answer

Had a thunderstorm yesterday. now set will not power on. is there an inline fuse inside case or what else can i do?


Hello,
Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!
Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.
Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).
If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.
TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:
It will work fine, problem solved.
It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives (use the series light bulb to cut your losses -
It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic. Hope this helps...

Jun 02, 2010 | Westinghouse SK-32H240S Television

1 Answer

ALL FEATURES WORK FINE; HOWEVER, LAST NIGHT THE IT STOPPED HEATING THANKS, DAN


first if no power check the internal ceramic safety fuse, then check the H.V. diode for front to back resistance(hi one way-low in the opposite direction),then check your H.V. capacitor for being open(if its shorted it will blow the internal fuse), starts with some resistance on up to no resistance(carefully discharge the cap before doing any of these checks),these are your most likely suspect components if you have some power,but no cooking

Feb 23, 2010 | Maytag MMV4205 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

10yr old bryant 90 series


Something is shorted out somewhere in the system.

You will have to trace down each component to find the short if it can't be found with a visual inspection.

Does the board have a low voltage fuse on it?

Dec 17, 2008 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Prima cr-20sb72 tv


start with products to specs or contact support.

http://www.primaamerica.com/support.asp

Apr 03, 2008 | Prima C2012 TV

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