Question about Kenwood Kitchen Appliances - Others
Switches itself off
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Switches off before full boil
Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.
The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.
My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
Make sure that the lid is securely on. Otherwise its the replacement of the auto bi metalic strip which turns the kettle off
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17. I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down. However, the light and power together seemed finicky. That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up. When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have. It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have. So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle. I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each. It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch. There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element. Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center. When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move. They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit. My problem was they were not making a good contact. The contacts are hidden behind the tabs. All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact. The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this. Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
SOURCE: Kettle will not stay on
Sounds like the switch is weight sensitive. A safety feature to prevent overheat as contents run low? The baseplate is probably not moving freely enough to move accordingly.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
If the 'neon' light is on, the power is getting to the kettle, so if its not heating up then the element must have broken.
This kettle has a little white trip switch inside the 'socket' of the kettle (not the base unit). If its not heating, light is not on and the plug fuse is OK, then poke the white trip until it clicks.
Posted on May 09, 2010
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