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No water pressure

We have no water pressure and we have check our pump and its not the cause, could you help?

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Just so that we are on the same page.I'm not sure what you mean when you say you checked your pump. The water supply hoses behind your machine lead and connect to the inlet water valve. Right where the hoses connect, in the valve itself, there are screens that can become blocked with lime deposits and other debris. You'll need to turn the taps off first. Then loosen the hoses with pliers. Make sure the hoses relax before removing. Clean the screens with a toothbrush and spray bottle if needed. While the hoses are disconnected hold the ends over a bucket or inside tub of washer and turn them on to make sure pressure is good coming from them. If pressure seems good and screens are clean reattach hoses hand tight then 1/4 turn more with pliers. Do not overtighten. Do not use teflon tape. Do not crossthread.
If pressure is still low then inlet water valve likely needs replaced.

Posted on Jan 13, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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4 Answers

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Have you measured the pressure or is it a faulty valve. Are the inlet and outlet valve open. There is a safety valve for thermal relief on top of the tank.

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Aug 27, 2014 | Annovi Reverberi Garden

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Water remains in machine. Machine stops after a minute or so and diplays F11.


F11 means Drainage fault.

Water present in appliance and is not being drained off. The display shows Drain fault F11. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:
After each drain pump step, the circulation pump operates for 2 seconds and heater pressure switch B1/13 checks the water level. If it is too high (large quantity of residual water remaining in the cabinet), the drainage time is extended. If, after a further check, the water level is still too high, then the program is interrupted, the fault code is saved and the drain pump is activated. Fault code F11 is also registered if heater relay 1K1 is not activated after the fault code F51 register check; see Section 080-3.18. Drain hose kinked. Remedy: Check the drain hose for correct positioning.

Cause: Drain blocked.
Remedy:
1. Clean the on-site drain.
2. Check the sump drain.
3. Check the filters.
4. Check the heater pressure switch and replace it if necessary.

Cause: Ball in non-return valve in sump has not opened (e.g., jammed).
Remedy:
Clean the non-return valve in the sump or replace it if necessary. Cause: Foreign objects in the drain pump.

Remedy:
Clean the drain pump and its impeller.

Cause: Drain pump defective.
Remedy:
1. Check the voltage supply to the drain pump.
2. If correct voltage is present, check the drain pump motor winding.
3. Replace the drain pump, if necessary.

Cause: Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.
Remedy:
Check the heater pressure switch for blockages and correct switching point.

Cause: Heater relay defective. Heater relay (coil or contacts) becomes defective during the drainage step (after fault code F51 register check).
Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.


Hope this helps to solve it.

Jul 05, 2011 | Miele G2432SCISS Builtin Dishwasher

1 Answer

F11 blocked inlet/drain


f11 error code says in the manual
Drainage fault
Water present in appliance and is not being drained off. The display shows

Drain fault F11. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:
After each drain pump step, the circulation pump operates for 2 seconds and heater pressure switch B1/13 checks the water level. If it is too high (large quantity of residual water remaining in the cabinet), the drainage time is extended. If, after a further check, the water level is still too high, then the program is interrupted, the fault code is saved and the drain pump is activated. Fault code F11 is also registered if heater relay 1K1 is not activated after the fault code F51 register check; see Section 080-3.18. Drain hose kinked. Remedy: Check the drain hose for correct positioning. Cause: Drain blocked.

Remedy:

1. Clean the on-site drain.
2. Check the sump drain.
3. Check the filters.
4. Check the heater pressure switch and replace it if necessary.

Cause:
Ball in non-return valve in sump has not opened (e.g., jammed).

Remedy:
Clean the non-return valve in the sump or replace it if necessary. Cause: Foreign objects in the drain pump.

Remedy:
Clean the drain pump and its impeller.

Cause:
Drain pump defective.

Remedy:

1. Check the voltage supply to the drain pump.
2. If correct voltage is present, check the drain pump motor winding.
3. Replace the drain pump, if necessary.

Cause:
Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.

Remedy:
Check the heater pressure switch for blockages and correct switching point.

Cause:
Heater relay defective. Heater relay (coil or contacts) becomes defective during the drainage step (after fault code F51 register check).

Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.
this is usually caused by a blockage in the drain but can also occur from other circumstances as listed above you can also see this at this link as well http://appliancehelponline.com/miele.html
if you have any further questions message me back and please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future Thanks again Rick

Jun 07, 2011 | Miele Dishwashers

1 Answer

Have just bought a secondhand Miele G7859 dishwasher. When turning on to any programme, it shows F11 fault code and beeps. I'll happily work through any suggestions! Thanks in advance Andy


F11 - Drainage fault

This code means that water present in appliance and is not being drained off. The display shows Drain fault F11. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:
After each drain pump step, the circulation pump operates for 2 seconds and heater pressure switch B1/13 checks the water level. If it is too high (large quantity of residual water remaining in the cabinet), the drainage time is extended. If, after a further check, the water level is still too high, then the program is interrupted, the fault code is saved and the drain pump is activated. Fault code F11 is also registered if heater relay 1K1 is not activated after the fault code F51 register check; see Section 080-3.18. Drain hose kinked. Remedy: Check the drain hose for correct positioning.

Cause: Drain blocked.
Remedy:
1. Clean the on-site drain.
2. Check the sump drain.
3. Check the filters.
4. Check the heater pressure switch and replace it if necessary.

Cause:
Ball in non-return valve in sump has not opened (e.g., jammed).
Remedy:
Clean the non-return valve in the sump or replace it if necessary. Cause: Foreign objects in the drain pump.

Remedy:
Clean the drain pump and its impeller.

Cause:
Drain pump defective.
Remedy:
1. Check the voltage supply to the drain pump.
2. If correct voltage is present, check the drain pump motor winding.
3. Replace the drain pump, if necessary.

Cause:
Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.
Remedy:
Check the heater pressure switch for blockages and correct switching point.

Cause:
Heater relay defective. Heater relay (coil or contacts) becomes defective during the drainage step (after fault code F51 register check).
Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.

In other cases, owners found a piece of wood inside the door latch mechanism and removed it. The F11 error has not appeared since.

Hope ths helps.



May 20, 2011 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

When adding air to a pressure water pump ,i


Sounds like the bladder is gone or inproper air pressure in water storage tank.

Bladder goes bad check it out with step 1
1-
One way to check for sure with everything hooked up. The air valve on top of the tank if pressed you will get water out of the valve which should be only air. This will let you know it should replaced.

If Tank bladder is low in air and not water coming out.

2-If it checks ok put an air gauge to tank to check the air pressure, with a standard 40 gal tank you will have 28 psi of air in tank for it to function properly.

May 21, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a pump attatched to my shower and now I have to have the water turned up on the highest point to get it hot enough and the pressure is low now any answers


There's a leak in your line causing you to have a lower pressure. Check for leaks;
1. Start at the installed pump. (Suction point, pump
shaft, pump discharge, Pipelines)
2. Check your mixing valve (the valve where the hot
and cold water meet and mixes)
3. Check you main water line connections.
Hope this will help you.

Nov 29, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Gould 1/2hp submergible well pump cycles on and off constantly. low to no water pressure .The pressure switch remains in the closed position. Power to pump side of pressure switch good. pump runs 15...


My first thought was that of a water logged tank which causes short cycling, from your notes the tank is good (the tank may be partially water logged though) If the tank is ok and your getting short cycling (and the switch is good) I would guess your check valve down the well has failed. As the pump creates pressure then shuts off the water may be going right back down the well causing the pump to cycle again. This could also account for the poor water pressure as the check valve may be stuck slightly open allowing the system to loose pressure but only allowing a small amount of flow by when running. There could be a leak within the pumps drop-pipe and your loosing pressure through this leak. I expect you'll have to have the pump pulled.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Oct 10, 2009 | Plumbing

2 Answers

Saop not disolving


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