Question about Optics
Need this battery box for the AA's that plugs in the telescope console to power the scope
Look at this link
The Astronomy Mall mentioned there does carry Meade battery packs for this discontinued model.
Posted on Jan 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: MEADE LX90 TELESCOPE
Had the same problem. Took it to a dealer and we put a new controller on but the funny thing was that my old controller worked fine on another scope but it would not work on mine. Agreed with "Guest" above - Mead's after sales service is bad.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
SOURCE: meade LX200GPS telescope
The front panel for the telescope has an internal fuse. Remove the screws and look at the circuit board for a fuse. Replace with the same type and rating. The telescope has a diode with the fuse that gives some protection against reverse polarity, and the telescope should function on this fix.
Posted on May 22, 2008
Sorry about Meade's responses, but their website has a download section for the telescope manuals - you may not find one that matches exactly, as they produce hundreds of models, but one that is close should suffice. As for eyepieces, there are several good vendors out there; Orion Telescopes, Meridian etc. Just check the barrel size; either .965" (Japanese standard) or 1.25" (American standard).
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
SOURCE: Meade LX200 10" SC Telescope
You have a standard lx200 problem. If you transported your scope a lot with the drives "locked" it damages the RA and DEC drives. If you keep using it, the motors burn out and start drawing too much current. This sometimes blows the motor driver chips on the motherboard which are getting very rare.
The burned out tantalum caps can be replaced with better aluminum electrolytics very cheaply. If the ones in your Autostar burned out, they often burn up the ribbon cable. Also, they often take out U11, a 74LS14 chip on the motherboard. Also a cheap repair. You should take the Autostar apart. If they are burned up, it will be obvious. If your ribbon cable survived, you should replace the caps with aluminum electrolytics. I believe they are 6.8 uf.
So, if you can work an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the two drive motors with the plugs unplugged. If it is about 14 ohms they are ok. If they are about 3 or 4 ohms, they are toast. Check the worm drives for end play. If there is just a little, you can adjust them. The battery jack on the control panel often breaks the solder joints on the board, causing one of the problems you describe. You can check that and replace/resolder as necessary. The on/off switch often fails and gets intermittent. These are also cheap and can be replaced. I don't repair these for a living but I repair a few of them for friends in the club. These are pretty common problems.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
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