Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure that the switch on the gas valve is in the on position. If it is and the gas valves coming into the furnace are open, you probably have a bad gas valve.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
SOURCE: reverse polarity
Its a simple fix. Follow the cord that plugs into the wall into the furnace. Or if its hard wire, follow the romex wire that goes into your furnace. Inside the furnace, switch the white and black wires that connects to the power cord. www.fastacservice.com
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Your furnace has a diagnostic chart on the reverse of the lower panel incorporated in the wiring diagram. One blink tells you that it is a failure but wont tell you where to start looking.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
The chances are that the furnace was running when the power went out. This will cause the high limit switch to cutout and needs to be manually reset.
You will find that switch in the blower compartment near the blower. Usually somewher near the highest point of the cabinet.
Push the little red button firmly till it clicks.
When the power goes out while the furnace is running the heat builds up because the blower shuts down immediately and causes this limit switch to cut out.
If you have a electric tester you can also follow the low voltage circuit till you find the open switch. Ther is usually a wiring schematic on the door cover of most furnaces.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
That control board is several hundred dollars. If I may make a suggestion, take a jumper and when the inducer fan starts, jump out the pressure switch. If it starts, it's not the board but a bad switch, hose or blocked exhaust vent.
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
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