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My Empire model DV-60-3-SPP lights but won't stay lit. The propane tank is full. I have replaced the regulator to this point.

Furnace lights but then shuts off when it comes to temperature.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Endless Summer Patio Heaters won't stay lit

Hi ColdinSF,

You need to remove the covers from the unit and blow out the gas lines with compressed air. If you can remove the gas lines blow out the lines and what they connect to like the pilot light and main feed line to the burner. Usually they gunk up with use and just need to be blown out with compressed air to clear the lines again. Maybe you have some dirt or foreign object from your gas tank which has clogged the line. Also check the igniter electric lines as well and make sure everything is connected properly. Especially make sure you tighten the gas lines you remove. Hope this helps.

Regards
Bryan

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

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Buffalo12980
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SOURCE: Medallion Vermont Casting model CF9080

sounds like the regulator. there isn't much of anything left to go wrong! the gas comes out of a very small orifice in the burner tube and mixes with atmospheric air before being burned at the jet.

Posted on Feb 03, 2008

  • 189 Answers

SOURCE: I have a goodman gmpn 100-4 REVB furnace that will not stay lit

If the igniter lights the burners the ignitor..... is not bad. Its like a light bulb.... it works or ot doesn't.
You are describing a dirty flame sensor. Dishonest contractors will sell you a new ignitor but clean the flame sensor when the are installing the ignitor. It is located at the opposite end of the burners than the ignitor. It has one wire going to it. Remove it and clean the rod with a piece of fine grit sandpaper. this should be done every year before heating season.
Good luck

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Patio heater won't stay lit

I had this same problem - here's how I fixed it...

First: Never modify the safety features of your heater as has been suggested elsewhere on this forum. Modification of these features may allow the heater to work, but greatly compromises the safety of anyone near the heater.

The problem with the heater shutting off is most likely due to not enough gas flowing through the pilot orifice (this orifice is almost as small as the diameter of a human hair). When this happens, the pilot flame does not burn vigorously enough to activate the thermocouple. Hence, the thermocouple shuts off the gas and the burner goes out - usually you'll hear one "click" when this happens.

This is a maintence thing - meaning you may have to do this as a seasonal activity.

Here we go....
(1) Shut off the gas at the tank - or remove the tank entirely.
(2) Remove the screws that hold the burner shield and top shroud from the unit - set it aside.
(3) Remove the control knob - it just pulls straight off.
(4) Remove the panel immediately behind the knob you just took off. This will expose the gas valve assembly.
(5) Remove the cover that encloses the bottom of the pilot light/igniter (assembly). This will expose the bottom of the pilot assembly.
(6) Remove the screw holding the pilot assembly - there is a small hex nut on top, but under the burner that you'll have to hold to prevent it from turning. This will free the pilot assembly allowing you to gently pull it out of the pilot assembly housing. DON"T pull hard or you may break the gas line or thermocouple.
(7) Remove the hex nut that attaches the gas line to the pilot assembly and gently pull the gas line out. At this point, to ensure you have gas flowing through the pilot gas line, you may want to re-attach the gas tank, turn it on, gently move the gas line as far away from the spark ignitor as possible, temporarily replace the control knob, and turn the knob to the "Pilot" position & push it in. DO NOT DO THIS ANYWHERE NEAR AN OPEN FLAME OR A LIGHTED CIGARETTE! You should be able to hear a hissing sound as the gas flows. If you do not hear it, the problem may be with your gas valve, and if that's the case, I'm sorry this procedure likely won't solve the problem.
(8) Remove the pilot light tube (orifice) from the mounting bracket. There's a hex nut on the back side that holds it in. Be careful not to damage the hex nut or the threads. You'll need a pair of pliers (to hold the bracket) and an adjustable wrench for the hex nut. Make note of the orientation of the pilot burner diverter so you can put it back together the same way it came apart.
(9) Using a blast of compressed air, blow air through the pilot orifice. You should be able to see just a very (and I mean very) small pin-point of light through the pilot burner. If not, use a single strand of very fine wire - like one strand from a 18 gauge braided electrical wire - and run it through the pilot orifice. Carbon build-up can clog this orifice - which can prevent the pilot from burning vigorously enough to heat up the thermocouple. Cleaning it out periodically will likely solve the problem.

Put everything back together in reverse order as noted above - making sure your gas fittings are tight and don't leak. Once it's all back together, light the pilot flame as normal and once the thermocouple heats up, the heater should work like a charm.

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: Kirkland outdoor heater will not stay lit

The thermocouple is bad. That is the part right next to the pilot light that sense's the flame and hold the gas valve open to the pilot. Take the old thermocouple off and go to hard ware store and get a 18" one of what ever length you need and replace. 5 dollar part.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

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