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First verify that the breaker for the outlets is not tripped and make sure that the generator is running at full operating speed. let it run for 5-10 minutes and check for output power. If there is nothing, there are two possible problems. One could be that the automatic voltage regulator is bad. The other is that the field needs to be flashed - a high possibility if the generator has not been run in a long time. There are many videos on the internet that show you how to solve both of these problems. Just do a search for No output from a portable power generator.
On Thursday last week I had 220 amp outlet being used and a 110 amp outlet being and overloaded the generator. It turned out to be the reset breakers failed to trip and blew the capacitor. The reset breakers I would suggest replacement after 7 years very easy to do on a 5500 Valsi generator 2010 model still running and now producing electric. And of course use only regular gas non Ethanol.
The EU3000 series generators are inverter generators. The generator features an alternator, which produced high-voltage, multi-phase AC power. This power is converted to DC power and then converted back to AC. This process is controlled by a microprocessor and is necessary to provide stable, consistent power capable of running equipment sensitive to power surges. This type of generator provides higher fuel efficiency and lower operational noise ratings in a lighter model than home and work generators produced by Honda.
EU3000i Handi Specifications
The Honda EU3000i Handi is a 3,000-watt inverter generator that features wheels, folding handle and a recessed convenience light. The engine is a Honda GX160, which features a 163-cc displacement. The AC output is 120 volts, with an average rating of 2,600 watts and a maximum production of 3,000 watts. There are three receptacles to include a 20A, 125-volt duplex and a 30A, 125-volt locking plug. The DC output is 12 volts and 100 watts. The EU3000i can hold 1.56 gallons of unleaded fuel, which will provide consumers with 3.6 hours of run time at 25 percent load for 7.7 hours.
Your field has lost the residual magnetism. You need to flash the field. There are several ways to do this and the description is too long to write here. Best is to search google for flashing field generator. I would try the trick using a single speed drill motor first as it is a safe method. You must lock the drill on and it cannot be a type with a throttling trigger. Plug into the 110 receptacle and with breaker on give the drill a spin with your hand. This is with the generator running. More drastic steps using a battery need to be done with generator stopped.
The cap is a 35uf 370 vac, and the generator will not work without it. While you have it opened up, check out the diode, too. After it's been put back together, if it still doesn't put out, you may need to "flash" it. To do this take a 110 volt plug and cord, and plug it into one of the outlets on the generator. Start the generator engine and then *VERY BRIEFLY* touch the leads of the plugged-in 110 cord to the + and - terminals of a 12v battery. You should now have power available, so be very careful with the ends of the 110 volt cord as they are now "hot".
Without knowing the exact model generator you have, it may not even have an automatic voltage regulator (AVR). Colemans were known for losing what is known as "residual magnetism", especially when sitting for long periods of time without use. This residual magnetism is necessary for exciting the field to produce electricity. Here is what you can try: Plug a 110v drill into one of the 110 outlets. While the engine/generator is running, with an open hand (not fingers wrapped around it) spin the chuck while holding the drill trigger in the run position. Many times this small amount of current that will be produced by spinning the drill motor will restore the residual magnetism and excite the field. Keep in mind that if this works, the drill motor will begin to spin immediately since it is plugged into the outlet. Hope this helps.
I would guess that this uses both of the 15 amp breakers to make the 30 amp circuit. Try carefully measuring the voltage at the back of the 30 amp outlet after pulling it out. You may have a bad socket. look at how it's wired behind the panel too and see if there are wires from the other sockets to this one. If so, check all connections between them. If you still can't figure it out, try to get a picture of the panel and the wiring behind it and send it to Shelomah@i-can-fix-that.com
You may have just lost residual magnetism in your rotor. Start genset then apply 12 vdc to 120 v outlet for less the 1 seconds. This will be enought to restore the residual magnetism to the rotor and the unit should be producing power now.
Most generators have several circuits incorporated within the windings. There are usually two 115v windings, one or two windings that produce power and sensing voltage for the regulator that supplies power to the armature (produces magnetic force) and sometimes a 12v winding to supply power to charge the battery. The two 115v windings power one 115v plug each and together power the 220v plug. Each outlet has a breaker and or ground fault. Since the 115v plugs are working indicates that the 220v plug must have an open/broken wire or faulty breaker. Easy to check, however you must open cover to wiring compartment and trace wires. Should be easy fix. You do not have to start engine to find broken wire. Use ohm meter instead. With engine off, Insert probes into 115v plug and obtain ohm reading. Then insert probes into second 115v plug and obtain similar reading. Look for same reading at the 220v plug (remember 2 circuits of 115v, ground and neutral). Good luck with your repair and email if you have other question.