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To much preasure building up in my whirlpool EE3Z80HD055V

Water keeps leaking out of T P valve and leaking in the fittings leading into the high pressure "WellMaster" tank that sets above the water heater. It has never done this before and I notice when you turn on just hot water the flow of the water is inconsistent. I am thinking that a new thermostat and maybe new heating element cause it doesn't heat as efficient as it used too.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 148 Answers

SOURCE: Hot water heater leaking at the top valvue

I believe the problem you had with the pop off valve is a one time thing since you said you just installed the water h eater

The pop off valve is a pressure relief valve that is activated by build up in the tank from excessive pressure either through too much heat or pressure which works by pressing aginst a spring loaded valve


If you go to the whater heater and look at the valve ther is a handle on it take your hand (stand clear of valve opening) and slowly pull it you will see water start to come out

More than likely a new valve could have had a piece of debris in it or was partially open
re
If the heater was overheating the valve would stay open and you would see extremly hot water rushing out

I do not recommend that you replace the valve unless it continues


Good luck to you




Posted on Jan 09, 2009

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: limited hot water

Some checks are surely possible but PLEASE make sure that the 220VAC is absolutely shut down.
In a home we built in 1977, circuit breakers were improperly marked and I, with decades of experience, believed I had turned off the power to our water heater only to find that it was still 'hot' and blew away a screwdriver tip before thinking to check across terminals to see if the voltage was in fact OFF.
You may have the same problem I had twice over ~30 years; that the lower heating element is open/failed. These typically will gather a coating of mineral deposits and eventually be unable to transfer their heat to water fast enough to avoid overheating and failing.
The limited hot water comes from the fact that the thermostat is checking for temperature at the exit point of the heater; the top. The thermostat turns on both elements but with only the top one still working it heats 10-15% of the tank capacity and then shuts off.
With your meter set to the lowest Ohms scale (typically 200 Ohms), measure across the element terminals. You should measure pretty much a short since the elements have an extremely low resistance; on the order of 10-20 ohms, if you measure anything that goes 'off-scale' on the 200 ohm range (normally blinking), the element is shot.
Don't forget to drain the tank before pulling out the element!      
If you are in the US, near any city, check your white pages for: Johnstone Supply or check their website to see if one is near you.You will pay 1/3-1/2 hardware store prices for the replacement element - buy two, store the second one. They are 'wholesale' to the trade but have never been refused.
If you don't feel like wading through their extensive website, you can take the element with you and they can give you what you need.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

rick_stokes_
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: warm water only

You can eliminate the shower control knob possibility by turning on your hot water anywhere else in the house. If you get hot water in other places, then it could be the knob causing it. A substantial lime buildup in the tank can also cause poor heat transfer from the elements to the water.

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: leaking pressure relief valve

what is the water pressure on the cold side? You may need to install a pressure reducing valve at the water heater inlet to reduce inlet pressure and keep pop off valve from opening when not needed.

Posted on Mar 10, 2010

SOURCE: After connecting a drain line to the pressure

Turn off the electricity.
Turn off the water valve going into tank.
Open a bathtub spout to let hot water pressure off the tank.
Check top of tank for any leaks.
Open the top access panel and see if element is leaking.
Open bottom access panel and see if lower element is leaking.
The reduced pressure on the tank will slow the leak.

If element is the problem, you can squeak by for a while by turning on the hot water heater only when you need hot water.
Order the 'Marathon MR85245 replacement element' online
http://www.gpconservation.com/rheem/marathon-sp213670-titanium-4500w-lower-element
These elements may be available locally, but they are not the same as 'ordinary' tank-type electric heater elements that you buy at the hardware store.
Buy more than 1 element because the Marathon elements have problems.
One of the reported problems with marathon elements is the high price of stainless steel replacement elements.
Drain tank.
Replace element.

Another resource for water heater information is:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Posted on Nov 04, 2010

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The T&P valve or temperature and pressure relief valve is placed on a hot water heater for safety. If it is still leaking after replacement either the temperature is too high causing excessive pressure or your house pressure regulator is set to high or has failed. The water heater has a thermostat to control the temperature. Check to make sure it isnt cranked all the way up. If the water heater is old there could be a lot of sediment build up. if sediment builds up near the temp sensor it will have to superheat the water above normal levels to heat the sediment up enough to shut off. Drain your water heater and flush out all the junk then try it again.

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http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

There are reports that elements on the Marathon cause problems.
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But I think the problems are mostly that the elements burn out frequently and are expensive to replace.
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Another thing you can do is put an expansion tank on the incoming cold water line.
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