My heater is plugged into a thermostat that I have set at around 65 degrees my garage is appox. 30 degrees. When the heater is cold and I first plug it in it runs good after the thermostat is satisfied and the heater shuts off the temp. of course drops to where the thermostat again fires up the heater ( which is still warn ) now the heater will run blowing out lots of smoke but not fire up for anywhere between 10 secs. to the point where I have to manually unplug it. The next day or when the heater has totally cooled its initial start is fine then the problem starts all over. Any ideas ? The heater is a Ready Heater Pro 150,000 btu Thanks, Mike
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I believe what your experiencing is the 75 degrees is the hold temp position...the display then reverts back to the actual room temperature...it doesn't mean the set temperature changed back to 65 degrees. Try to reprogram the thermostat schedules, and try not to use the hold function...just the temporary hold. (which is bumping the programmed temperature up or down until the next programmed period)
Most T-Stats have a On / Auto on a forced air system. On means the fan will run all the time even if it is not calling for heat. Auto only runs when calling for heat. Does the fan turn off in the auto mode at all? To test it...BE SURE THE FAN IS IN THE AUTO MODE ON THE T-STAT... Turn the thermostat all the way down and keep it there for appox 15 mins. If it is wired properly and the fan limit is set properly the fan should turn off. If it doesn't it is not the thermostat were the problem lies.
Most forced air units have a fan / high limit switch. There is a setting on the switch for the fan to turn on and a setting for the fan to turn off or it has a setting and a differental switch for it to turn off/on. Example - the fan comes on when the temp in the heat exchanger reaches 110 degrees F and will shut down at 95 degrees F after the thermostat is satified...this would hav a differental of 15 degrees F. It may be set to low and the fan continues to run long after all of the heat has been removed from the heat exchanger. This in turn will cause cool air to be coming out of the registers.
You didn't include a model number, so it's hard to know for sure - but I'll take a stab at this one. Many of these t-stats have a programmable offset to reduce "hunting". This can be as little as 1 degree or more than 2 degrees.
This means if you set the offset to 1 degree and the room temperature to about 65 degrees, the furnace will heat the room until the t-stat registers a rising temperature of 66 degrees. The furnace shuts off and will not turn on again until the t-stat registers a falling temperature of 64 degrees. The average is 65 degrees, and prevents the furnace from starting and stopping numerous times instead of just once with the 1 degree offset.
You can further reduce the number of furnace start and stops by increasing the offset to 2 degrees. This would work like this when the t-stat is set to 65 degrees and the room is cool:
Room Temp Furnace 63 On 64 On 65On 66 On 67 On 68 Off
The room is now warm and heat or furnace is off. The room begins to cool like below:
67 Off 66 Off 65 Off 64 Off 63 Off 62 On
With a 1 degree offset, the room temperature varies +/-1 degree (about 2 degrees total). With a 2 degree offset, the temperature about varies +/ -2 degrees (about 4 degrees total).
Also, when the thermostat shut the heat off, the heat that was made is delivered to the space instead of wasted by sending outdoors - so the room will get a little warmer even though no fuel is being burned. The same holds true at the other end. When the t-stat turn heat on, fuel is burned, but there's little heat until the source has reached the optimum temperature and then the heat is delivered to the space.
I hope this helps & good luck! Pleas rate my reply - thanks!
If this is a new installation, make sure the unit is feed with at least 208+ volts of electricity.
If it is an older tank, try turning up the temperature setting on both thermostats. Set the top one 10 degrees higher than the bottom. If there is now change in the water temperature after a day or two, replace both thermostats. While your at it, change both element as well. A complete universal electric water heater rebuild kit should only cost around $35.
On and off is determined by what temperature you set each program for. Example: 6 am - 70 degrees, 8 am - 65 degree, 4 pm - 72 degrees, 11 pm - 65 degrees. You can set the thermostat to fit your schedule and temperature preferences. Good luck.
make sure it is not telling you room temp, some of the Honeywells, will display room temp over desired temp. check that, if it wont let you switch temp than buy a new one, if you dont have a heat pump a new cheap stat is around 20.00.
These heaters are the same as the marley heater, the element never gets red hot. the unit is set up so the fan kicks on after the element has heated to a certain temp and turns off after the element has cooled. It is common for these heater fans to cycle on and off quite often untill the air temp reaches about 55 degrees and then will operate normaly. If the fan still cycles too often you may have to replace the fan control and high limit switch. These are not very expensive and easy to replace yourself. they arte usualy attached to the back of the element with clips. The luke warm air is what these units put out. I have an equivelent to the dayton G73 and it heats a 24' X 30' garrage all winter in central Minnesota.
The thermostat may not be made to go lower than 50 degrees or so. A new one that can may need to be substituted. Go to the local appliance parts supplier. remove the old one and tell them what range you need.