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Replacing a dual burner control switch

We order a new control switch from sears. the old part number was
318078201. the new is unverisal with the part number 903057-9010.
the problem is the diagram they sent. if i was a electrain i might know what to do but i am not. ist they only show 5 wires coming from out of my old switch but it has six. since the first diagram is not right the new is wrong also. please help.

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  • hm99 Jan 31, 2009

    Hello, I have a similiar problem trying to replace an dual-burner switch on a Frigidaire Electric stovetop (Model# FEC30S8HSA). I had the switch replaced with a universal dual watt kitt (part# 5505-468 = 903057-9010). The shaft on this one has broke off again and I am trying to replace it with a new switch I received from Sears, which is a Electrolux model# 903097-9050.

    The broken switch(903057-9010)(240V/15A) has connections to L1(black wire/smooth cover), L2(Red wire), H1(Yellow wire), H2(Orange wire), P(Brown wire/Indicator light), and 2B(Red wire/smooth wire)

    The new switch (903097-9050)(240V/13A) has two connectors for P1, P2, 2, 4(w/terminal), and 4A. It also has several slits to insert something for S1 and S2?

    Any ideas on how to connect this and is it ok if one switch was 15A and one 13A? Sears said that this was the correct switch but not sure about the AMPs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank you...

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  • Master
  • 1,214 Answers

First, have you removed the wires from the old switch?

If not, then look on the switch, old or new, and see if there are numbers on the terminals. If so, just move the wires one at a time, terminal number to terminal number.

If you have removed the wires, then you will need to find the wiring diagram, which is most likely found somewhere inside the unit or on the back panel. You should be able to identify the correct wire connection from the wiring diagram.

If you can reply the full model number, I might can find a wiring diagram for it and give you more direction.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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Hello gralexander,

The problem you are experencing is with you control switches. The cheapest place i can find the switch is from searsparts direct. Here is a link to the webpage http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-79046809991/0583/0124160/P0050380/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=79046809991

You will see a diagram in the top left side of the page use it to locate the switches that are bad and order them from sears. You may also need the burners to check them you need a continutity tester.

1. Remove the burner from the socket
2. Take your test and touch one probe to each side of the burner.
3. If you have continunity then the burners are good
4. If not you will have to order burners as well.


Changing the switches:

1. Unplug the range
2. Remove the back panel where the switches are.
3. Remove the knob from the front
4. Remove the screws from the switch you are replacing (Due one at a time)
5. Move the wires from the switch to the corresponding terminal on the new switch
6. Replace the switch and screw in place
7. Do the other switch
8. Reinstall the cover on the back of the unit
9. Plug in and try

Doing all of the above steps should fix the problem that you are having. Please make sure that you install L1 to L1 and L2 to L2 on the new switch other wise you will cross wire it and the rest of the switches will short and need to be replaced.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.com. If you have any other questions please post back to this thread and I will do my best to help you with your Range problem

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