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I have a Hurlcon VX - S series salt chlorinator that keeps switching itself from pool mode to spa mode which drops the chlorine output.

The system is controlled by an inbuilt timmer and is set for two 4 hour sessoins per day. Sometimes when you manually change back to pool mode it switches itsel to spa mode minutes later.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 272 Answers

SOURCE: no chlorine reading

Salt is sodium chloride, you can only measure salt levels now as your CL (cloride) is bound to a NA (sodium). Table salt =NACL, Your Intex system will tell you if your salt level is too high or too low but your old test equipment for free chlorine will continue to tell you no chlorine as it can't react with the chloride any longer as it is bound to the salt. That is why they tell you you never have to add more because the salt stabilizes it. Your chlorine is there it's bound to the salt. Use the pool it's fine and it makes your water feel really soft! Just keep the salt level right and your fine> It's confusing as they call the unit a chlorine generator! I had the same issue, called Intex and they told me the above.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have an intex salt water chlorinator and I have

Here is the website for all manuals! http://www.intexstore.com/default.aspx
All are dowloadable. Good luck!

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Intex salt water chlorinator not producting chlorine

You can test if the 8110 is generating any chlorine by taking a water sample directly at the pool return. You can invert your container so it stays filled with air until you have it positioned in front of your return. Make sure your test chemicals are not expired and test the sample. You should get a high reading if the 8110 is producing any chlorine. If it is producing chlorine, you may want to make sure you have the correct level of Cyanuric Acid. In my pool, if the Cyanuric Acid level is low, the chlorine level drops to zero quite quickly.

If the sample indicated your 8110 is not producing any chlorine, I would check to see if you have approx. 24V DC between B+ and Gnd on the screw terminal strip on the main circuit board. The transformer supplies two voltages to the 8110. One voltage powers the electronics and the other powers the electrolytic circuit. So it is possible for part of the unit to work if one voltage has failed.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

  • 297 Answers

SOURCE: My chlorine generater appears to be working fine

no chemicals needed -Test strip are not as accurate as liquid kits buy one for about 10 dollars
Also since it is a new set up you shouls run the chlorine generator for at least 8 hours.
Make sure your chlorine light comes on ( about 5 minutes sometimes a little longer after you set the timer)

Also get a test kit to detect salt 10 dollars for 10 tests Keep it as close to 3000ppm as you can the higher you go past this amount the saltier the water can taste

do not go below 2500 you do not want to have to be bothered adding salt for splash out or rain.

starting at 3000ppm gives you a long time before needing to add for the splash out or rain with these factors you only loose about 25-35ppm's when refilling and so on so it is a long way to 2500

One other pointer is to make sure you filter your pool enough. It is recommended to turn your pool water over at least 3 times a day
as an example I will use my 7000gallon pool with my 2000gl pump thats about 10 hours a day just for filtering. This does not include how long you need to leave the generator on to produce the amount of chlorine to produce a 1.0 or a 1.5 setting Also keep in mind that chlorine affects the ph so chlorine needs sel first before you worry about ph so once both are set then watch as the chlorine drops so will ph but once you run the generator to rebuild the chlorine level the ph will come up by itself. Ph will cause more problems with eye irritation and cloudy water than chlorine

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

  • 297 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 18ft x 52 intex pool with salt water chlorinator.green

although you may or may not have enough chlorine in your pool you must also realize that a pool need turned over at least 3 times a day.
an example is if you have 7000gl of water and a 2000gph pump you need to filter at least 10 hours or so.
More important than chlorine is the actual circulation of the water you can have all the chlorine in the world but if you do not have the circulation the water will become cloudy or green this also happens when you have no swimmers for days at a time


the filtration time is over and above the chlorine generating time your 4 hours a night for generating chlorine sound like you are guessing sometimes it may be 4 and sometimes 2 or 6
it depends on # of swimmers a day sun and what was in the pool to start

It is important to have a test kit for ph and chlorine and keep chlorine at 1.0to 1.5 now set your ph
ph will rise and fall with your chlorine level one you have them set good at the first time then ph should stay safe enough and re level as chlorine is kept right

also remeber that the wrong ph causes more problems than wrong chlorine levels

Also make sure your salt is no more than 3000ppm and no higher like some people recommend and no lower than 2500 test kits are available for 10 dollars

all of this can be found on intex.com either in a video or pdf files for water capacity and approximate time for generating chlorine.


to be sure always use test kits

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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We have an Intex above ground pool that takes salt and converts to chlorine. We filled it about a month ago and all was fine for a few weeks, then in the past week the water began turning green. We have...


Intex chlorine generators are very low output generators that fail very often. There is a reason they are so cheap. They do not work well. When using a chlorine generator, it is important to test manually for salts and free available chlorine on a daily basis. Just adding salt because you have a generator will not make your pool manage itself. In order to get the most basic chemistry under control, you need to test for alkalinity, calcium, pH, and free available chlorine.

If you do not have the ability to test these things, spend $10 on a 7 in one test strip that will give you this information.

Note: Chlorine generators have more negative aspects to them than positive. There is not a cost savings as advertised with these units. It actually costs more money, and takes more time to care for. The salt is very corrosive to the pump and filter system as well as the pool itself. The long-time cost would be cheaper to run a chlorine or bromine pool.

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No chlorine reading


Salt is sodium chloride, you can only measure salt levels now as your CL (cloride) is bound to a NA (sodium). Table salt =NACL, Your Intex system will tell you if your salt level is too high or too low but your old test equipment for free chlorine will continue to tell you no chlorine as it can't react with the chloride any longer as it is bound to the salt. That is why they tell you you never have to add more because the salt stabilizes it. Your chlorine is there it's bound to the salt. Use the pool it's fine and it makes your water feel really soft! Just keep the salt level right and your fine> It's confusing as they call the unit a chlorine generator! I had the same issue, called Intex and they told me the above.

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