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Re: dryer not working
The button you push is a momentary start switch.whats suppose to happen is the power passes thru the push to start switch for a moment till the motor centrifugal switch goes to the run winding.what i have found happening is a lint buildup in the motor switch area dose not allow the motor centrifugal switch to reset to the start winding when the dryer has finished the last load.so its trying too start on the run winding and it could only do that if you helped by spinning the drum while hold the start switch.soooooo.... unplug unit .get to the motor and vacuum it out.inspect your wiring for burnt/loose connections.if all is well and vacuuming did not solve problem.your motor may have an open start winding which you could check with an ohm meter.if you need any more help you can make an request thrufixya email. God bless ,tom
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There is something causing the drive motor to bog down. This means the fan isnt spinning fast enough and the whole unit is overheating. Check for anything around the edges of the drum, coins keys etc. The squeal is the belt from the drum being stuck. See how hard it is to turn by hand.
See if you could turn the machine and remove the vent hose on the back. Then, after you are sure it is clear, try a load of clothes with the vent hose blowing out into the air, not hooked to a vent hose pipe through the wall. Very often, a plugged pipe will cause this behaviour. The pipe could be plugged in the wall or somewhere else. Be blessed.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. This is often caused by the relay inside the control panel.
If you don't have heat or the motor stops as soon as you let go of the PTS (push-to-start) button, there is a quick test you can do to see if it is a bad relay. There are two identical relays inside the control panel: one for the heater circuit (#15) and one for the motor control (#36). They are both part number 3405281.
Unplug the dryer.
Identify the two relays. Looking at the panel from the front, the heater relay is just to the right of the circuit board, and the motor relay is just left of the PTS button and at a slight angle. You probably want to label and/or diagram which wire goes onto each of the spade lugs.
Remove the wires, unscrew the relays and switch them.
Ensure that nothing is going to short out and plug in the dryer.
Set fabric selector to High and the timer to Timed Dry past the 10 minute mark
Press the PTS button and release it.
What you are looking for after the changing relay positions:
If you had motor-stops problems before, but now it continues to run but with no heat, you almost certainly had a bad motor relay.
If you had motor-runs-but-no-heat problems, but now the motor stops, had a heater relay problem. Try holding the button in for 10 or 15 seconds and observe the heating element. If it starts glowing, the heater relay failed.
The replacement relay can be found via these sources: (It pays to net search!)
hate to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like ur motor is going out. Had this happen to my last dryer. If this is the case it will eventually just stop. Try running it without any laundry in it. if this works, then load it and see if it still works. (poor little motor has to work a bit harder with a full load) good luck.
Some dryers have a broken belt micro switch mounted where a lever will stop the motor from getting into the run mode. They do this to keep the heater from catching fire. If your dryer is a DOT dryer (dryer of tomorrow) made by maytag for kenmore then it certainly has such a switch. If your dryer is a plain jane whirlpool manufactured one then you needs a motor replacement most likely friend. Sowwy.
Hello , bad news here , when you press the start button it sends power to the motor and then a clutch sets in and closes a set of points that then sends power to your element -if the clutch does not engage the motor will not continue to run or send power to the element and that is what is happening to your dryer.
not an easy fix at all , the clutch is bad and its located inside the motor and the entire motor would need replaced to repair this problem. they range from 80-100 dollars and would take about 1-2 hours to change.
let me know if you have any other questions.
if the dryer is gas then a 110 ac volt plug is sufficient. If it is an electric dryer than it would be 220 ac volt wich is a four prong plug, a common with a L1 L2 and ground. If it is in the USA (im in canada) they may if memory serves use common for ground. what ever the drier plug was when first manufactured is what you want to use. It sounds like there is a short to ground (common/nuetral) from the element. when the timer is in the on possition power from one side of the circuit is present. when you start the drier with the start switch it provides contact to the other side of the circuit. check the element and that should be your problem.
Its possible the dryer heat selector is at fault. If the timer inside does not move to the end of the heat cycle you may have further problems. Depending on how old the dryer and how long it has taken to dry garments, you may want to check that the motor has not gone bad causing an electrical overload.
Faulty timers will cause extended drying times eventually putting a strain on the motor's bearings and electrical windings.
You may want to get a replacement or get a repair estimate to repalce the belt, motor, drum rollers and heating coil components.