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Where is inlet valve on whirlpool top loading washer model #WTW4800XQ1

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: need a diagram of top load washer

The following link will give you step by step instructions how to replace a water inlet valve on a Whirlpool manufactured washer:

If you still need illustrations, and have excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use for reference.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

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SOURCE: Accessing water inlet valves on whirlpool duet front load washer

You will have to remove the top panel , 3 screws behind the washer , then lift , from the rear . The washer needs to be out far enough , for a driver to remove the screws , and , pliers , to remove the hoses .

Posted on Jan 01, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks AASC! I'll be replacing it next week and with your reply I now know I won't have to remove the closet doors - That's a great help!"

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SOURCE: how to replace a inlet water valve on top loading

These aren't to bad but hopefully I can clairify well enough for you to follow. You will need a phillips screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver and a 1/4 inch driver (or socket). Slide the unit out and disconnect the water lines and unplug the washer all together. Now stand directly in front of the washer and look at your control panel. That whole console with the 3 selector switches and timer are going to be flipped upside down, backwards off the cabinet. If you look to the left and right of that console you will see a plastic end cap (or ears) on each end of the panel those knobs and the timer are stuck in. You need to look to the backside of the washer at both of those plastic end caps and you will see a phillips screw pointing towards the ground at a slight angle. They should be the only phillips screws in the end cap and they have a special tab right above them to keep them from coming out with vibration. Use your phillips to push in the tab while unscrewing these 2 screw (one in each end cap). Once unscrewed pull the whole panel forward about 1/4 inch and it should release and flip backwards.
If you got it then hard parts over. K, now we work on the area you just exposed by moving the console. Unplug the connector to the lid switch by pulling up locking tab and pulling out the wire connector. You should see 2 brass clips locking the rear panel to the cabinet. Examine them before taking them out so you will be able to pop them back in the same way they are coming out. Use the flat head to slide into the cabinet part of the brass clip and pry to the back of the washer. It should go down straight and pry to the back. You have just freed the whole cabinet front but don't take it all the way off because it can be tricky to get back on. Just lean the back panel out so you can access the valve for replacing and you got it.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: my kenmore top load washer will not stop filling

Are you sure this is a water inlet problem? This may also be caused by a pressure switch malfunction. The following link explains how you can determine which one may be causing your problem:

Is this a simple problem of the washer continuing to fill with water when its not in use? Or does the washer overflow? If you've already determined this to be a water inlet problem, but replacing the valve did not change your symptoms, you either got a defective part or the water pressure may be too low to close the solenoid valves (usually requires a minimum of the 10-25psi).

Otherwise...have you checked the small air hose that runs from the bottom right hand side of the wash tub to the pressure swtich? If this hose is has come loose from the pressure switch, or from the air dome on the wash tub, the pressure switch will not sense the pressure differential coming from the wash tub as the unit fills. Also, if the air hose is cracked, ripped, split, or clogged somewhere, you will get the same symptoms.

If you need further assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I can determine how your washer is configured. I hope this helps lead you in the right direction.

Posted on Feb 12, 2010

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: changing inlet valve

If you suspect you have a defective Water Inlet valve (also known as a FILL valve or MIXING valve) it can easily be diagnosed by performing the following steps:

- First, make sure the water taps are turned on all the way, and the fill hoses are not kinked in anyway. If everything checks okay, proceed to the next step.
- Now, turn the water taps off, disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer and place them in the wash tub. Turn the taps back on and make sure you have proper and forceful water flow (minimum water pressure should be 10-25PSI).
- Check the sediment screens on the Water Inlet valve on the back of the washer. Sometimes these screens will clog with rust or sediment and prevent water flow. Cleaning with some distilled vinegar works well.

If you've attempted all the steps above, but still have no luck, more than likely the inlet valve is bad and requires replacement. Please, read all instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple repair that any "Do-It-Yourselfer" can accomplish. Follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. The inlet valve is located on the back panel with two or more sets of electrical connectors attached to it. The connectors are usually color-coded to indicate which valve is HOT and which valve is COLD (In the case of a Mixing Valve, you may have additional electrical connectors). Remove the connectors and check the contacts for corrosion. Sometimes a good cleaning can restore a valve solenoid to working order. (You may want to label the connectors, if necessary, to ensure you know how they go back on).

8. Disconnect the small rubber water hose(s) attached to valve with a pair of pliers to release the hose clamps. Inspect the hose(s) for any evidence of cracking.

9. With the water hose(s) removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) and the inlet valve comes off.

10. Re-install new inlet valve following these steps in reverse order. Pay careful attention to make sure you correctly connect the HOT & COLD electrical connections (RED is usually the HOT water side). Make sure all hoses are fitted back in place and the hose clamps are snug.

11. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

12. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

13. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

14. Reinstall console.

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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

Enter your model number (110.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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It has testing procedures as well as a good description of how the washer works.

It sounds like a defective water level switch or water inlet valve.

See the following for how to release the console and cabinet on these machines in order to get to the switch for testing.

Basically, what happens is:

When the washer is turned on, the water inlet switch is closed allowing water to flow thru the inlet valve. When it senses that the machine is to the level selected by the water level dial, the switch opens shutting the inlet valves.

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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