Question about Hotpoint HSWP1000M 3.5 Cu. Ft. Capacity Extraction Ribbed Basket White
What's causing the rinse cycle to not fill water beyond low when I've used the large capacity to wash?
It can be due to a faulty water level sensor which evidently is a pressure switch. If the diaphragm is damaged it will require a larger water level to achieve the said pressure to shut the inlet valve in all the cycles.
Posted on Jan 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: wf340 hotpoint washer
it will be to do with the pressure switch it may be faulty, but more often than not there is a blockage in the pressure chamber which is located at the bottom of the outer drum, check the chamber and the tube that goes up to the pressure switch to see if they are blocked if they are clear of obstruction then test the pressure switch,to do this unclip the pressure switch from the side of the machine but dont take the wires off once off pull the tube off that goes down to the pressure chamber once off blow in to the nossle on the pressure switch, you should hear it click and then when you release it should click again, if it doet click twice then that is your problem, hope that helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
hold the start button for 5 seconds this should clear previous program. then select drain on your dial. press start as normal and machine will drain. if this does not work the only other remedy is with help, making sure the end of the drain hose is higher than drum at all times take machine outside, lean it back at 45 degrees agaist a wall with a towel or similar covering lid to stop scratching . working from underneath loosen the large jubillee clip that connects the drum to pump drain hose to the drum. As the drum is overfull there is no recepticle large enough to fit under so just let water just flow away. Dry every thing off. make sure you don't loose ping pong ball in filter and make sure filter is clear. refitting is reverse of removal
Posted on Apr 20, 2008
SOURCE: hotpoint washing machine
I really need more information here, but hopefully the following covers manty of the possible scenarios.
Do you hear a motor spinning during the time the drum should be turning?
If you hear a motor spinning inside the machine then there is a good chance that the drive belt has simply come off. You may be able to just take the lid off michine (My article http://www.fixya.com/support/t1543617-door_seal covers how to do this), hook the belt over the small spindle on the motor and then put it on the big wheel on the back of the drum by placing it over one side of the wheel and spinning the drum to draw it around the rest of the wheel.
Now, if this is the case, you are going to have to ask yourself why it came off. Sometimes this will happen if you had a very heavy load in the machine and the spin cycle threw the machine all over the place, so what was the machine doing on the last occasion it DID work?. Sometimes, the belt comes off because the drum bearings are worn out and there is movement in the drum. To check for this, open the front door of the machine, put your fingers on the drum on the inside and try to lift the front of the drum upwards a little. Bear in mind that there is an outer drum, with the drum that spins inside it and what you are feeling for is the inner drum moving inside the outer one, this will be obvious and "Clonky" if it is worn out. You are not looking to see of the whole drum assembly rocks smoothly inside the chassis, It is supposed to do this. If your bearings are worn out and this has caused the belt to come off, it may well be accompanied by a small, but worsening leak from the back of the machine as the water slowly leaks more and more through the bearing. I'm aftaid that if this is the case, then, depending on the age of the machine it may be time to scrap it. Certainly a bearing replacement is possible as a DIY job, but it is a real pain and not for the faint hearted.
So then, on to the scenario where you CANNOT hear a motor running during the wash cycle when the drum should be turning. This is probably the motor faulting out. Once again, a few checks: does it NEVER run, or will it still spin the washing? Your motor will have up to 4 electrical windings inside it, One for the standard turning motion when there is water in the drum during a wash and up to 3 more that kick in at various stages of the spin as it gets faster and faster. If it still spins, but will not wash, then it is almost certainly a burned out winding in the motor and you have to replace the whole motor. This will cost you (as a rule of thumb) about 25-40% of the cost of the machine when you bought it.
If the belt is on but the motor does nothing at all on any cycle, there might be a loose connection on the back of the motor (A plastic connector block with around 6 wires clips into the back of the motor, check it is firmly in place). Or, the brushes in the motor may be worn out. You can get separate replaceable brushes for most motors. If you can replace an altenator on your car, you can replace a motor on your washing machine, the principle is exactly the same. If you get to the point of taking the motor out, give it a good physical inspection, looking for burn evidence on the wires of the winding, water drip damage AND have a good sniff at it. If you smell that horrible burned wire and plastic smell, you know that the motor is going in the bin.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
SOURCE: Agitator Not Working
My Hotpoint VBXR1090B top loading washing machine quit spinning during the rinse cycle and also quit agitating.
The water filled up and drained just fine --no leaks.
Here's how I fixed it in 5-minutes.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
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