Re: Impute jack on a kick back type cabinet. need to...
??Sure it's to the rear? I scraped sheaths and sheared a wire, presumably the power supply to the amp? Will know more when I remove the speaker. Thanks "Seanzilla".....Yeah no, the amp is removed to the front...
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Re: Impute jack on a kick back type cabinet. need to...
Very simple. Remove all black screws at top and sides of cabinet. Gently slide the amp unit out (towards rear). Done! :) Don't be alarmed if you have to "tug" on it a bit. This is normal. Just don't try to "FORCE" it out.
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On the back of your 6505 there are two jacks that are labeled speaker outputs. For mono function, use either one of those outputs and run a SPEAKER cable from your amp to one of the input jacks of your 1960a cabinet. I assume it is a 4X12 cabinet. Either input will work. Make sure you match the ohm selector on your 6505 (right next to the output jack, 4/8/or 16 ohms) to the ohm rating on your 1960 cabinet. It is likely labeled on the plate that houses the input jacks. You should be good to go. NOTE: Never turn your amp on unless it is hooked up to a speaker cabinet and never use instrument cable to hook your amp to your speaker cabinet. Bad for a nice tube amp like yours.
Rock on and hope it helps.
The inout jacks get a lot of abuse. Tripping over the cords break them. Always loop the cord through the handle to decrease the risk. When jack gets intermitent, only solution is to replace it. There is a reasonable amount of work to access the jack as usually all the front panel knobs and hardware has to be undone to remove and replace the jack after the amp chassis is removed from the cabinet.
I do not understand what you mean by "removing the jack assembly". If you mean you leave it connected but hanging out, the problem is LIKELY you are driving it too hard and the protector is activating. Having it outside would cool the protector. You need to evaluate how much you are sending to this cabinet and see if it is within the ratings. This is a VERY compact speaker rated at 800 Watts peak and 400 Watts PROGRAM... read that as using a 200 Watt RMS amp driving it... for safety. There is a chance that the connections to the speaker are loose and removing the jack puts a load on the connectors... they are probably some of those lousy push on connectors... This is the best plan: Use a sound level meter to make sure you are not exceeding the 118 Db sound pressure level the speaker is capable of. Realize that the kick drum puts pulse type load into the speaker. Most likely you are tripping the PTC speaker protection circuit that is probably located on the jack assembly... the PTC will typically be a disc about the size of a quarter with two leads. It heats up and opens the speaker circuit until it cools down... takes a few seconds. In free air it might not trip due to air cooling. DO NOT drive your speakers too hard... they are EXPENSIVE to replace. If you need more sound put another speaker in parallel. I know a lot of deaf musicians so get a meter and check the SPL... You want to keep it around 85 to 90 Db with peaks that can go to a little over 100. There are OSHA limits. Read up on hearing loss...
One can overtighten the input jack and "un-rivet" the jack. They are not made very well !!! OFTEN when they appear loose, they HAVE un-riveted the threaded sleeve from the metal inside the jack... that USUALLY requires REPLACEMENT of the jack itself.
The cabinet backs on a lot of these have to be PRIED out as the Tolex covering often makes them tight.
The amp portion is often retained by screws from the top and or sides AND even the two holding the handle on... there are many different configurations. Sometimes the amp comes out the front, sometimes the back. It is easy to shear off the speaker wires when removing some of them.
You will need to remove either the top or bottom panel to get at the jacks. There is probably a bad solder joint that needs to be repaired. You might try tightening the screws on the XLR jacks that fasten them to the back panel first and the nuts that fasten the 1/4"jacks also. I really do not recommend you do this yourself ( accessing the interior) unless you have electronic servicing experience as the filter capacitors in the power supply store a dangerous charge and are soldered to the circuit board in fairly close vicinity to the output stage.
Have you tried another cable between amp and guitar? Usually the cable goes bad first. Have you tried another amp or possibly tried another guitar on your rig? If this still indicates that your guitar's Standard 1/4" TS Jack is noisy, remove the oval cover over the jack and check the solder joints for the wiring. Follow the wires back to the tone and volume pots and check those solder joints. If everything is secure...Plug in, power up and check for noise while turning the volume pots stop to stop. If the pots make a scratching noise, shut down rig and unplug the guitar. Get a can of spray contact cleaner with a small extension tube (available at electronic shops) to spray in the pots while turning them. (May have to remove pots fom the guitar to get at small openings on side of pot can.) Spray jack and test for noise. Jack STILL
noisy...If you can solder...unwire old jack, remove from guitar, take to electronic shop, match to Standard 1/4" TS Jack, install in guitar, resolder wire connections and test. If you cannot solder...take guitar to
a reputable shop or dealer that does this repair. Good Luck! P.S. The
spray contact cleaner can be used on the amp jack, pots and switches
too...just make sure the amp is unplugged from the power supply before
doing any spraying.
I just had this problem and wasn't able to find the solution on line, so, here 'tis.
Take off the six screws on top of the amp cabinet. Unplug the speaker plug from the amp jack.The metal amplifer box can now be pushed out of the back of the cabinet and the input jack remounted. I had to force the box a bit as it was glued in just enough to tack it into place. (I was afraid to force the electronics box out so I took the entire cabinet apart piece by piece until I could see there was nothing left holding it in.) I found that prying it this way and that with a butter knife helped crack the glue.
SOMETIMES the handle screws must be removed as well.
I have taken a lot of these out and the key is to figure out which direction it comes out... MOST are out the back and sometimes a board across the back has to be taken off with four screws to clear a transformer.
FIGHTING getting the thing out when it catches on the Tolex covering is the USUAL problem. Takes patience and sometimes a blade to hold the Tolex back.
I'm pretty sure t6hat the output jack is a sealed unit(contacts inside soldered to the surface of the circuit board. You may be able to grasp the center shaft of the plug with a thin jawed hemostat or really skinny long nosed pliers and pull it out that way. Make sure the amp is off and unplugged from the wall. If that doesn't work you will either have to get it removed at a shop or disassemble the amp to remove the circuit board and unsolder the jack and replace it or get the broken plug out of the jack once it is unsoldered. I've never had a Line6 apart yet but thats probably the type of jack they used. Thats because it has to be electronically isolated from the chassis. Hope this helps.