Ran out of oil purged system to release air already wont start
I left my home with the heat on, came home and realized I let it run out of oil agian....now last time somone just assisted me to purge the system of air to get started agian, so I did the same agian but when that worked last time this time dosen't seem to be doing the trick...?help? hoe do get my heat going agian....its intertherm make...and probably a model from around early 80s
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Because it is low on Freon. Do not run it low or the compressor wont be able to cool and you will burn it up. If it has run more than 1 hour in 90 degree heat the compressor is probably already damaged. Have a HVAC professional look at it, but if you were still using id plan for the worse, a complete replacement.
First the weather is extremely hot mid 90's and humid.I have a Trane combination a/c heat pump system. The A/C was pumping out warm air.I called for a technician and the problem was the compressor was not working.The solution/fix was to replace compressor start capacitor.The technician was here for about an hour.The compressor was running before he left however I informed him the air coming out of the a/c ducts after one hour of run time did not feel as cool as usual. It took from 1pm until 10 pm at night to cool the house air down to 80 degrees and the system ran constantly.I left it on 80 as that is where I usually leave it. Today again it is running all day barely able to keep the house at 80.My home was built in 07 block house, well insulated with thermal double pane insulated windows.I suggested to the tech to check the refrigerant level but he did not think it necessary and did not perform the check while here. The unit will cool the house down to 80 degrees but runs constantly.My question is: Should I have a technician come check out the system to insure proper refrigerant levels and pressure????????
Coleman is known for this. I have seen many over the years make this noise during cool down. The heat exchanger is contracting and expanding. The heat exchanger is the part that the fire burns in. It surrounds the flame, and when the furnace is on, the metal they use for many of their furnaces has a tendency to make noise as it cools off. One other thing, if you don't already have one, it would be good for you to buy a carbon monoxide detector and put it in the mobile home somewhere up high hopefully in the hallway close to the furnace return air. If the heat ex. is expanding as is sounds, it would be good to make sure it does not have a crack in it , in turn releasing dangerous fumes. Hope this helps.
An oil burner has a high pressure pump on the burner-- can you locate the pump? (There will be a copper oil line coming into one part of the pump...) Do you see a little 'Bleeder valve'-- usually right on top-- It takes about a 1/4" (or 5/16" open-end wrench to access it. Air has to be bled from this fitting, until oil comes out.
In order for air to bleed OUT-- the pump has to be running
You can reduce the mess, by slipping a small hose on the bleeder valve, and letting the air, then foam, and then all oil, run into a little can. (Much like bleeding the brakes on your car..) You may have to cycle the burner a few times, as it times out, from running, but not having JUST OIL, to pump. (These pumps do very poorly, pumping air and oil mixture!-- It must be ALL OIL!)
When you have all oil, tighten the bleeder valve-- Now you will get oil pressure, and you should get ignition. Doyou hear the spark of the ignition?
My new Laars NeoTherm boiler (NTH150) was making a whining noise soon after install. The noise was audible through most of the home. Replacing the air/gas blower solved the problem. Correct sizing of pumps is also important to reduce (water-flow related) noise. Having done all that my Laars boiler still isn't particularly quiet in its start-up and (modulating) operation. It should NOT be located below or next to a bedroom.
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. You will have to push and hold the reset in on the side of the control for 15 seconds. But you will also have to bleed the air from the system from the 3/8 nipple on the lower left side once the lockout has been released and the motor starts.
You need to have the system evacuated to fix this leak. First thing is for safty reasons, for your protection and refrigerant release. second is to make sure no contaminates are released inside your system. The tech should recover the refrigerant fix the leak, then purge with nitrogen, then pull a deep vaccum to 500 microns and it should hold for 20 mins. then he should recharge the system with refrigerant.
my Beckett oil burner with a honeywell R7184P just did the same thing. Quit burning, blinks for half a second. The burner says press reset once, if it does not reset then call a local serviceman. It is cold here in Alaska, you betcha', and my oil must have jelled up. It happened once, but pressing reset solved my problem, two days later it stopped again. I applied heat (hair dryer) to my supply line, added an anti-jelling solution to my tank. Here is what I found.
"The Honeywell R7184P-1080 (interrupted control—transformer shuts down 10 seconds after flame is established) is now the standard control used on all Beckett oil burners along with the new “Cleancut” pump. The Honeywell control has both a 15 second pre-purge and a 15 second post purge feature, as well as internal self-checking of the control itself. The control has 15 second lockout timing plus a 10 second ignition carry over period. After 3 lockouts during the same call for heat, the control goes into restricted lockout., A restricted lockout condition may be reset by holding the reset button down for 30 seconds until the LED flashes twice. At any time the control is powered, the reset button may be held for 30 seconds to reset the lockout counter. There are several new “Service Features” with the R7184P control that make for easier servicing."
You have to press the reset button for thirty seconds. I don't know how cold it it there, or what number oil you guys are burning, but what I do know is that you guys have been pressing your reset button more than once.
It may just be trash in the lines, also. That is what the valve with the hose attached to it is for, the same as a water heater, it needs to be drained and blown out with higher pressure (not too high) water at least every two years. You will probably have considerable scale and possibly sedimentary buildup in your system due to the fact that routine maintainence has probably been ignored. In order to properly bleed the system of air, you have to find the highest point of the piping system, and if there is not already a hammer arrestor with a purging valve installed, it will need one. Then it's just a matter of cracking the valve a little until you get a stream of water instead of the hissing of the air. Simple as that.