Question about Refrigerators
Freezer is defrosting, Fridge seems OK but fan near compressor (rear back bottom) seems sluggish
You may have a fault you may not. if the fridge is ok then the freezer is going through an automatic cycle. If the freezer is not working then the fridge will soon follow.
likely faults causing this are; thermistors; worn out compressor motor; degassed compressor/receiver (can become hot and sluggish if lost gas/lubricant mix; dirt around the fan maybe causing it to be sluggish too. make sure you unplug it before touching anything!
Posted on Jan 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: not cooling
The clicking you are hearing is your overload on your start system sounds like your compresser start ststem is out..or your compresser is locked up the only way to tell is to ohm out the compresser idf you dont have a meter you can install a start kit like a Supco Pro41 or a RCO410 or a factory replacement and see if it starts up the compresser.. Have you cleaned the condenser at all ??? although this will not fix the compresser it can be a cause of overheating..The part Number you need is a 2188831 for the factory replacemenet ($22.56)the supco parts part number SU RCO410 ($15.00) the Pro41 is part #
SU PRO41 ($17.97) you can get them at your local parts house they are all easy to change or if you dont have a parts house close you can oder it on the web at www.apdepot.com Hope this fixes ya
Posted on Feb 17, 2008
check continuity thro the fan motor and check it is free to turn. also check if power is present at the fan
Posted on Oct 13, 2008
The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
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