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GE Performance Profile TFX25PPBB Freezer Defrosting

Freezer is defrosting, Fridge seems OK but fan near compressor (rear back bottom) seems sluggish

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  • Master
  • 691 Answers

You may have a fault you may not. if the fridge is ok then the freezer is going through an automatic cycle. If the freezer is not working then the fridge will soon follow.
likely faults causing this are; thermistors; worn out compressor motor; degassed compressor/receiver (can become hot and sluggish if lost gas/lubricant mix; dirt around the fan maybe causing it to be sluggish too. make sure you unplug it before touching anything!

Posted on Jan 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Master_Tech
  • 770 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling

The clicking you are hearing is your overload on your start system sounds like your compresser start ststem is out..or your compresser is locked up the only way to tell is to ohm out the compresser idf you dont have a meter you can install a start kit like a Supco Pro41 or a RCO410 or a factory replacement and see if it starts up the compresser.. Have you cleaned the condenser at all ??? although this will not fix the compresser it can be a cause of overheating..The part Number you need is a 2188831 for the factory replacemenet ($22.56)the supco parts part number SU RCO410 ($15.00) the Pro41 is part #
SU PRO41 ($17.97) you can get them at your local parts house they are all easy to change or if you dont have a parts house close you can oder it on the web at www.apdepot.com Hope this fixes ya

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator warm on top, cold bottom, blower fan top of freezer not turning

check continuity thro the fan motor and check it is free to turn. also check if power is present at the fan

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool side by side refrigerator not defrosting.

take back panel off inside freezer. check continuity thro heater and thermal fuse in series with heater

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: GE PROFILE FREEZER FAN STAYS OFF TOO LONG..ITEMS DEFROSTING

The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: My LG freezer is leaking water and things seem to

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.




The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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I have a GE Profile freezer on the bottom refrigerator model #PDS18SBMARBS. A fan was runnining on the inside of the fridge seemed to be between the fridge and freezer. It was very loud and now does not...


Could be a bad fan motor. A bad defrost part or a bad control board.
Check for ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer. If so you have bad defrost parts or a bad control board.
Enter your model number at www.appliancepartspros.com to find the exploded view to dis-assemble the freezer. You can also order parts from them.

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Your problem could stem from an issue with the defrost timer, the compressor or its attachments (e.g.: relay, capacitor, etc.), or the freezer/evaporator fan motor. Contact an appliance service company.

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Started leaking water out the freezer door and ice was melting last nite... bad timing we just got a snow storm here in NC last nite. Seems to be running but food is defrosting. Its a GE Side by Side about...


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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

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1 Answer

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Refrigerator not cooling, ice forming on back of side-by-side freezer:
Turn off unit. Empty freezer section. Remove freezer back panel (4 screws) to expose iced-over coils. Use a fan to speed up defrosting. Put a towel or a plastic drip pan in the bottom of the freezer to collect melting water (rather than letting the water collect and maybe overflowing in the drip pan underneath the refrigerator).
After defrosting, by temporarily replacing the freezer back panel and turning on the unit, the refrigerator may operate OK for about 3 weeks before the next excessive ice build up.
Possible problem- a burned out Defrost Heater.
To check: After defrosting, turn off power to or unplug the refrigerator.
Unscrew the Defrost Heater bracket (2 screws). When loose, unplug the two wires connected to the unit. Have the unit checked, or use an ohm-meter to check continuity. If unit measures "open", high resistance, replace the Defrost Heater and bracket. If the heating element shows continuity (or low resistance) the heater is probably OK and you have another problem. Now you may need to contact a repair man.

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Possible bad defrost timer. Locate timer underneath the fridge and manually turn the knob. Element should come on and start defrosting. If defrosting starts then the timer is bad. Check also the element and thermostat.

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Noise can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.


  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.


  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.


Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.


  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.


  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.


The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

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Yes your refrig is not defrosting automatically. You can start by removing the shelves in the freezer than removing the rear panel (the panel that is frosted half way). Use hair dryer to defrost ice from coil. This will restore your refrig temporarily. Your refrig has a pretty advance defrost system and is not easy to test. If you have a meter (volt-ohmmeter) i can help with diagnosis.

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