Question about Maytag Dryers
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace dryer belt
Pull the front panel off, remove the top screws and tilt top back. Rout the new belt around drum at the old wear spot with the grooved side against the drum. Next remove the back access door and rout the belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley. There is only one way to do this and get proper tension on the belt.
Also, when you order the belt, ask if it has a belt routing diagram on the belt package.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
Check the following to address this issue.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
Based on the information provided, it sounds like a broken drum belt is at fault. Below is an illustration of the drum belt.
Here is a parts/disassembly diagram:
Here is a belt installation diagram:
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
Click here for a belt installation diagram.
All links courtesy of www.repairclinic.com
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
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