While inserting new batteries into motorwinder, i must have pushed the exposure button. the shutter went up but did not come down. no matter how often i shake it, does not help. can someone help please.
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That's entirely correct. 1/250th is the fastest shutter speed you can use when using flash. Many other cameras can still only use 1/60th or 1/125. It's all to do with the two curtain nature of an SLR shutter: when you release the shutter, one curtain withdraws across the frame to expose and then a second one follows behind to shut off the light source. For exposures of 1/250 or slower on your camera, the second curtain does not start to travel across until the first one has fully opened, so you have a fully open exposure frame allowing the flash to reach every part of the sensor. At faster speeds, the second curtain sets off before the first one has finished and at the highest speeds it's so close behind the first that only a narrow **** is open to the incoming light as the shutter curtains pass across the sensor. If you fire the flash at these speeds the shadow of the first or second (or both) curtains will appear on the sensor and the picture will look like a narrow horizontal band, or if using fill in flash, it will look like a bright band across the picture.
It's immaterial though as the normal exposure rules don't apply with flash: the flash duration is typically anywhere from 1/4000th to 1/50000th and in that exposure time it outputs sufficient light onto the subject to enable a photo to be captured. As the flash is the dominant light source, the ambient light captured when the shutter is open for 1/250th is insignificant unless you're making a daylight exposure and using the flash for fill in purposes.
There are some specialist SLR and flash combos which will allow the full range of shutter speeds, but they do so by firing the flash multiple times very rapidly to ensure that there is flash light present effectively continuously as the narrow exposure **** passes across the sensor.
Compact cameras have shutters which work differently and which fully
expose the sensor at all shutter speeds, so in that respect they can
have a far more flexible flash exposure system. Unfortunately, they ruin
it by having pathetically weak built-in flashes which are only good for
very short distances.
Set the exposure mode to Manual (M) or Shutter-priority (S) and specify the shutter speed yourself. You'll have to set it sufficiently slow in order to see any difference between front- and rear-curtain.
If the film advance lever is "flopping" back and forth, the problem is most likely a jammed advance mechanism inside. The shutter is cocked *mechanically* and released the same way--no battery power is needed. One old trick you could try to release things is to push the rewind button on the bottom of the camera.*sometimes* it will free up the mechanism enough to unjam.
I got a Rebel 2000 off ebay, and it had the same problem. The Shutter wouldn't open, it showed dead batteries, and the mirror hung until I pressed the shutter button or changed modes. After a good deal of surfing, I found that the most likely reason was a sticky/oily shutter (http://photonotes.org/articles/oily-shutter/). Since I didn't have much $$$ invested in the camera, I tried cleaning the shutter curtain with Qtips and alcohol. After a little cleaning, the shutter started to move. After a lot of cleaning, the shutter moves freely. I ran a roll of film through it, and it seems to be working just fine now.
Hi , to release the shutter open the lense and push shutter button , rotate the camera mode to auto or manual release shutter.donnot set on bulb or lower speed can cause stuck camera miror and stter curtain, or blade.
Possibly the film did not go through the camera. If it did, the problem may be the 2nd(or closing)curtain magnet on the bottom of the camera.
When the magnet is working the closing curtain of the shutter is held back 1 to 1000 miliseconds-depending on the shutter speed selected by you. 1ms=1/1000 sec. 1000ms=1 sec.
You can tell by 1. removing the lens 2.setting the shutter speed to the "B" setting 3. opening the film door and looking through the camera 4. releasing or firing the camera and keeping pressure on the release button. If the magnet is working, the shutter will stay open as long as the release button is kept pressed down. The closing curtain will close as soon as the release button is released.
When the magnet fails, both curtains travel across the film plane together and no exposure is made. Sometimes there is corrosion on the magnet where the wires connect. Sometimes there is some foreign substance or object that interferes with the face of the metal unit that attaches to the magnet when the camera is wound. Sometimes the magnet just fails and needs to be replaced.
If the magnet checks out OK the problem may be in the circuits that control the release of the magnet. If this is the problem, the camera needs to be looked at by a competent repair shop. Just so you know, new parts are getting hard to come by, but there are tons of used cameras around that parts can taken from. Hope this helps.
The cause and solution may include one of the following:
The camera is not turned on. Turn on the camera.
The camera is processing a picture; the camera Power ring light (on the Mode dial) blinks green. Wait until the light stops blinking before taking another picture.
The card or internal memory is full. Transfer pictures to the computer, delete pictures from the camera, switch storage locations, or insert a memory card with available memory.
The shutter button was not pressed. Depress the shutter button completely down.
There was a failure in the focus and/or exposure. Press the shutter button halfway to set the Auto Focus (AF) and Auto Exposure (AE). When the AF/AE indicator turns green, press the shutter button completely down.
The battery is exhausted. Replace or recharge the battery