Question about Kenmore 75962 Gas Dryer

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Kenmore model 76712 does not blow heat just cold air

The dryer blow cold air only

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  • jcombs1961 Jan 23, 2009

    The model number you have stated is incorrect the correct model # is: 110.76712690 the dry blows cold air. I have taken the back of the dryer off and i can see the heating element but i cannot get to it how do i open the back of the dryer more?

  • jcombs1961 Jan 23, 2009

    I really appreciate your help in this matter, but my dryer is gas not electric will this make a difference in your answer?

  • jcombs1961 Jan 23, 2009

    Sorry, i was not aware that the rating would go out for all to see. This is the first time i have used this system and i thought in order to move through the prompts this step was needed. Thanks for letting me know, i did not want to cause you any harm. By the way my dryer is a Kenmore not a Whirlpool dryer or could they be owned by the same company?

  • jcombs1961 Jan 23, 2009

    Thank you, can you tell me how i can get to the back of my dryer better to see and touch the parts? I have the back off but it is very tight, does it open more? I will change the rating now, i am reading to see how this works.

  • jcombs1961 Jan 23, 2009

    You are doing a GREAT!!!! job in helping me with my dryer problem. Thanks for your patience.....:)

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The following link explains how to troubleshoot and dryer "no heat" problem and the common causes:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Read through the link thoroughly, paying particular attention to the section that discusses proper ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by insufficient air flow which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to failure. More commonly, the Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) fails. You will need to check all the components mentioned in order to be sure. If you haven't had your dryer ventilation cleaned or inspected in a while, now would be a good time to do so. Failure to correct any potential existing problems, can cause premature failure of any parts you replace.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know, so I can provide you with a viable solution. i hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 23, 2009

    I did not list a model number. The link I provided was a Tip posted for "All Electric Dryers". In particular, Whirlpool manufactured dryers such as yours. The advice I gave you would have worked for your dryer, as all Whirlpool manufactured electric dryers have the same heating circuit components. In the last sentence, I stated that if you had questions to please let me know. You could have provided some feedback, or asked questions rather than leaving an adverse rating. I usually stop giving advice at this point.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 23, 2009

    You never specified a COMPLETE model number with your initial question and , YES, this does make a difference. There is no heating element in a gas dryer. You have a burner assembly, so I do not know what heating element you saw in the comments you provided.

    Most commonly, the problem with failed ignition in a gas dryer is caused by the IGNITER. This is a glow bar type igniter. You can generally see it glowing inside the dryer cabinet under the drum just before ignition. If the igniter is bad, the gas safety valve will never open and you will not get any flow of gas to the burner assembly. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from entering the dryer cabinet with no ignition. Such condition could cause an explosion.

    If the igniter glows, but you still do not have ignition, the igniter may be weak from age and still require replacement.

    If the burner assembly ignites for a short period of time, then goes out, this is genrall caused by weak gas valve solenoids. There are generally two of them on this model dryer. One is the main coil, while the other is the pilot position coil. If they are suspected as being bad, replace both of them at the same time to prevent premature failure of any replaced parts. They are normally sold as a set.

    All these symptoms would cause the dryer to tumble, but only blow cold air.


  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 23, 2009

    Kenmore has never made their own appliances. They but the Kenmore name on other manufacturer's products (usually the more reliable models). The model number prefix of "110" identifies this dryer as a Whirlpool.

    Ratings do go out for all to see and is not required to ask questions or provide feedback. That's why we encourage communication with consumers to come to a viable solution BEFORE a solution is rated. These can also be changed at any time.


  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jan 23, 2009

    To access the burner assembly, you have to go through the FRONT of the dryer. This is accomplished by following these steps:

    1. UNPLUG the dryer.
    2. Locate the two screws under the lint screen door on the dryer top panel. Carefully remove screws. NOTE: Do not drop them down the lint chute. Place a free hand over the opening, or cover with tape to prevent this from happening.
    3. With two screws removed, the top panel will slide towards you, then lift up.
    4. Remove the front panel by removing the door latch connectors and ground wires, first. Then locate the two screws that hold the front panel to the side casing. There is one on each side. Place you body against the panel with the door shut to support the panel while you loosen the screws. With the screws removed, the panel should lift up a bit then come off. NOTE: Tape the door shut while removing, so it does not fly open.

    The burner assembly should be easily accessible under the drum on the left hand side.

    The drum can easily be removed for better access by releasing the belt tension on the idler pulley and lifting the entire drum out of the dryer cabinet.

    If you go to searspartdirect.com, there are some excellent exploded view diagrams of your dryer that you can use for reference. The burner assembly components are listed under the "Cabinet" heading. The ingniter is listed as item number 64, while the valve solenoids are listed as items 71 and 72.

    I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have further questions.


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Good day,
You didn't give the complete model number and whether it's electric or gas.
If it's electric it could be the heating element burned out or a thermal fuse that fails frequently. It looks like this.9970e71.jpg

If it is gas, it could be that same thermal fuse and or the ignitor or the gas valve coils. These are the common failure components. There are more including limit and safety fuses to name a few.
You need an ohm meter to test these components except for the gas valve coils, which are none testable.

As to your question, the timer will not advance if the heating system has failed. That is by design. Once the no heat problem is solved the timer will work.

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