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Pilot will go out, blower will continue to send out cold air, temperature will drop almost 20 degrees. The main switch will have to be shut off to turn the pilot back on, but it takes hours to come back up to temperature

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The system is going in to lockout due to ignition failure. A couple of things to check: First the filter.second there is a rubber tube coming off of the little blower that's about at waist level on the furnace(If it's a standing furnace) remove the hose and look for cracks or water in the tube, third while you have the hose off take a straightened paper clip or similar and poke the nipple that the hose was attached to. Sometimes they get debris in them. Fourth report back and let me know what it's doing and what kind of furnace it is (Brand, model #) good luck

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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Lennox G20 gas valve switches off then on Intermittently?


This could be a dirty flane sencor of the pressure switch check hoses are tight and not spilt , try jumping out the pressure switch see if that makes it work also check air fliter is clean .

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The blower fan does not shut off when it reaches the set temperature. Compressor shuts off but fan continues to run making the air inside very humid. Temperature is getting cold.


First, forgive me, but I have to throw the obvious out there......make sure the fan switch is in AUTO and not ON.
If the blower will not stop operating unless the main supply feed is shut off, you have a stuck blower relay that will need to be replaced.

Apr 26, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Gibson Furnace, Model #7106250 can not get a flame going. The furnace runs fine but is pumping out cold air without a flame. Any ideas?


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose, Dirty Air Filter), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Mar 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

80% ducane furnace makes several attempts to ignite then shuts down. glow stick lights but no ignition to main burners. any ideas?


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Check for 24 volts across the gas valve terminals!

Mar 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

2004 4runner Blower doesnt work when its cold out


the problem is eather the blower motor or the switch that controls it the switch somtimes has a set of balast Risters that control the speed of the motor could be that the main balast is bad

Feb 24, 2010 | 2004 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

My 8 yr old Goodman heater will ignite for 10-20 seconds then cut off, and then attempt over and over. Leaving our 2 bdrm condo cold. It did this last year, and all we had to do was change the filter. I...


Sounds like a flame sensor issue. It may just need to be cleaned. It is located either far right or far left in the burner box and has only one wire going to it. It will be in the flame of the last burner. If the flame can't get to it in a very short time the computer shuts the burner down. Make sure all burners are clean. You can use a can of air if you are careful near the igniter, it is very delicate. Here are some other ideas.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Dec 29, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

The exhaust blower starts for about 15 seconds then shuts off. several minutes later, the same thing happens - over and over


goodman furnance the exhaust fan starts, igniter glows hot, all burners lite up & will burn for about a minute and shuts down . I think it senses the room blower does not start so it shuts down.

Oct 20, 2009 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Main limit switch


I am providing some information, but I encourage you to have a furnace technician look at your furnace. The reason is; the limit switch trips when there is a problem that may present a fire or combustion hazard. I've seen these switches go bad, but not very often. Usually they are tripping because the plenum is sooted up and excessive heat builds in the combustion chamber. This is common in older furnaces that have pilot flames- the flame runs all year and soot deposits in the plenum, plugging the air flow through the combustion chamber after years of use.

The limit switch is a safety control switch located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position or the limit control switch needs adjustment. Check the thermostat first. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if the blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting.

To adjust the switch, remove the control's cover. Under it is a toothed dial with one side marked LIMIT; don't touch this side. The other side of the control is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower goes on at the upper pointer setting and turns off at the lower pointer setting. The pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Mar 15, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Pilot light


Assuming that your make up air and exhaust hood are properly balanced, no negetive pressure conditions exist, your gas manifold pressure is at 4" wc, your air/gas mix on the burner set correctly, the your problem would be the pilot adjustment. If the flame is not intense enough flame to survive the sudden air shock, it will go out.

The pilot height should be about 1 1/2". Your Pilot orfice could also need cleaning. Eliminate excessive draft in your kitchen.

Here is the manual for your unit, it covers these topics.

http://www.frymaster.com/docs/uploaded/fry/products/OperationalManuals/819-5355.pdf

Jan 24, 2009 | Frymaster Dean H17-SC Deep Fryer

2 Answers

No heat


No Blower in Floor Mode
A customer arrives with a 1983 to 1995 Full Size Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury
automobile with automatic temperature control. If the complaint is no blower operation when
the floor mode is selected, the vehicle may have a problem with the thermal blower lockout
switch also referred to as the CELO (cold engine lock out switch).
The thermal blower lock out switch is located in the heater core intake hose. The two
wire switch has a thermal element with a small set of contacts, the contacts are open when the
coolant is below 120°F and closed when the coolant is above 120°F. The thermal blower lock
out switch also contains a vacuum switch, which applies vacuum to the outside/recirculate
valve when the system is in the floor position. When the engine coolant is below 120 degrees
and the selector is set to floor position, the thermal blower lock out prevents blower from
turning on and closes off the outside air during engine warm-up. When the coolant
temperature is above 120 degrees, and the selector is set to the floor position, the thermal
blower lock out switch allows the blower to operate and opens the outside air door.
In order to diagnose this problem, test the thermal blower lockout switch with the
engine at normal operating temperature (above 120°F). Unplug the wire harness connector
from the thermal blower lockout switch. Using a 15-amp fused wire, jumper the harness
terminals to test the switch. If the blower comes on, the thermal blower lock out switch is
faulty. If the blower doesn’t come on, look for an open between the control head selector and
thermal blower lock out switch.
In some cases the blower may continually run even when the engine temperature is
below 120 degrees. Unplug the thermal blower lock out switch and if the blower motor turns
off, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the motor continues to run, look for a
short to power between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch

Nov 04, 2008 | 1988 Lincoln Town Car

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