I have a Sony Xplod 12" Sub. with a Rated Output of 380W and 1200W peak power. I have powering that, a Pioneer GM-5100T 2-Channel Power Amplifier with 760 Watts Max Power. Now my question. I was given a perfectly fine Sony Xplod the same as above, but the amp isn't enough for both. I'm thinking sell the amp I have and buy one that will power both subs. FYI. I installed this all myself without knowing much about how amps and subs work in any detail...anyone with knowledge would probably laugh hysterically at the setup (or lack thereof). If you answer, please explain in detail if necessary. So, what is the max power I need in a amp to power the 2 subs? Thanks in advance!!
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Re: Support Question about RMS
Actually the amp should be able to power both of your subs. You have a 2 channel 760 watts amp 380 x 2 = 760 watts. If you want to go with a more powerful amp I would go with a 2 channel 2400 wats amp 1200 per channel = 2400 watts total. Which the peak power of your subs if you go over 2400 you have the risk of blowing your subs easily.
You are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
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MY BEST GUESS FROM WHAT YOU HAVE SAID IS THAT THE BOX WAS TO SMALL. BUT YOU ARE OVERPOWERING THE SUB RUNNING IT AT 2 OHMS ON A 750 WATT AMP WITH A SUB THAT IS ONLY RATED FOR 600. NO MATTER HOW FAR YOU TURN YOUR SETTINGS DOWN, YOUR STILL PUSHING TO MUCH POWER FOR THE SUB TO HANDLE. IT IS ONLY RATED 600 WATTS FOR A REASON. ESPECIALLY IF YOU LISTEN TO MUSIC THAT HAS A REAL LOW END AND THEN A HARD HIT. REMEMBER A HARD HIT WILL SPIKE YOUR AMPS OUTPUT THEREFORE PUSHING MORE WATTAGE TO THE SUB.
This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.
dude TRUST me what you are using and have setup already is plenty..ONE TIP...of all things anyoine ever needs to worry about is the R...M....S power rating...the PEAK means NOTHING! its safe and fine to use what you got.
Hey buddy your question caught my eye because i have a buddy that was wondering the same thing not so long ago-and im no expert but i have had my run with rockford fosgate amps and a few sonys as well. So first of all if you know fosgates well you know that they ALL put out more power than what they are rated at -example your 400 watt fosgate amp is rated at 400 watts but if you got it new than it came with a birth sheet that shows you how much its really putting out-im just throwing a number out there but its probably closer to 480 actual watts. Now you get the sony amp and it says its a 1000 watts but its all bs -it actually is rated at 400 continous usable watts- so the reason that its not any louder than the fosgate is because you bought an amp with almost identical power output. The other part of the problem is that you are limited by your speaker-you could buy an amp that actually puts out 1,200 watts and plug it right in to your sub and its going to probably blow within 30 seconds or quite possibly catch fire. The numbers when dealing with car audio that you have to pay attention to are the R.M.S. power ratings - never look at the peak or max wattage because its all bs and yea its all bs- As i was saying you are going to be limited by your sub because as it stands right now you cant put much more power on that thing without blowing or roasting the coil. All subs have a limiting factor as to how much air they can move- this is called X-MAX and that tells you how far the speaker cone actually moves from start to peak excursion- once you have supplied the speaker with enough power to reach its x-max then thats it -no matter how much power you put on it it wont move any more air than that-and you will create heat and distortion if you try and thats just begging for a blown sub. If you want it louder than upgrade your sub to something that will move some serious air like a jl audio w7 or orion hcca subs -those subs can get it on like dammmmm or easier than that get another sub and then your moving twice as much air at a fourth of the price of buying a balls out jl w7-anyhow good luck with that
Amps can be rated based on their RMS power or their peak power. In this case, the amp's rated RMS power is 300x2 at 2 ohms (total 600W RMS) with a peak power rating of 600x2 (1200W peak). For the most part, peak power means almost nothing.
If your head unit didn't have RCA preamp outputs, you would used the standard speaker outputs from the head unit and connect them to the hi input plug of the amp.
Can it make them crank? Well, that all depends on your expectations. That amp/sub combo is going to give each sub about 125W, which isn't much. But if it's what you have, it's better than nothing. You might also consider using only one sub and bridging the amp. This would put about 340W on the one sub, which is much more reasonable.
Yes. If the rated power is 380W and the Max power is 1000W then it will handle it. Subs fry when clipping occurs. Clipping is when the amplifier is pushed past its capabilities and the output to the sub gets "dirty". The better quality the amp, the safer it will be on your speakers. It is also important to remember that the gain control on the amplifier is NOT a volume control to boot the sound, it is only to match the output from the headunit to the input handling of the amp. Cranking the gain up too much WILL CAUSE CLIPPING.
400 watts delivered to 300 watt speakers the only way to do this would be to wire two subwoofers in series so that the power needed to drive them will be 600 watts to max, however this will increase your impedance on the speaker (8 ohms) load so what you can do to compensate is get an 8 ohm 600 watt resistor and put it in parallel with the speakers you will then have 4 ohms of impedance at a total capacity of 600 watts of power
In other words the amplifier won't blow these out now.