Question about Pioneer Car Amplifier GM-5100T - 2CH 760 Watts Car Audio Amplifier

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I have a Sony Xplod 12" Sub. with a Rated Output of 380W and 1200W peak power. I have powering that, a Pioneer GM-5100T 2-Channel Power Amplifier with 760 Watts Max Power.
Now my question. I was given a perfectly fine Sony Xplod the same as above, but the amp isn't enough for both. I'm thinking sell the amp I have and buy one that will power both subs. FYI. I installed this all myself without knowing much about how amps and subs work in any detail...anyone with knowledge would probably laugh hysterically at the setup (or lack thereof). If you answer, please explain in detail if necessary. So, what is the max power I need in a amp to power the 2 subs? Thanks in advance!!

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Actually the amp should be able to power both of your subs. You have a 2 channel 760 watts amp
380 x 2 = 760 watts. If you want to go with a more powerful amp I would go with a 2 channel 2400 wats amp 1200 per channel = 2400 watts total. Which the peak power of your subs if you go over 2400 you have the risk of blowing your subs easily.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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You are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)

i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?

if you have any questions email me at thadoggma420@hotmail.com

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.

Here are the specs for the AMP:
  • Specifications
  • Peak Music Power 760 Watts
  • Number of Channels 2
  • Load Impedance Capability 2~8 Ohm (Stereo), 4~8 Ohm (Bridged)
  • Continuous Power (4 ohm) 125W x 2
  • Continuous Power (2 ohm) 190W x 2
  • Continuous Power Bridged (4 ohm) 380W x 1
  • Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 50kHz
  • Total Harmonic Distortion 0.008%
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio 100dB
  • Dimensions 12" x 2-3/8" x 12-3/4"
  • Features
  • Bridgeable
  • Channel # Capability 1/2/3
  • PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
  • Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
  • Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
  • RCA Inputs 2 Channel
  • Input Level Control Hi-Volt (200mV ~ 6.5v)
  • Built-in Crossover Selectable LPF (80Hz, -12dB/Oct.)
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    • Warranty Terms - Parts 1 year limited
    • Warranty Terms - Labor 1 year limited
    • Product Height 12"
    • Product Width 12"
    • Product Weight 7.8 lbs.
    • Product Depth 6-1/2"
    • Subwoofer Size 12"
    • Resistance (Ohms) 4 ohms
    • Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 10"
    • Woofer Composition Mica-reinforced woven glass fiber composite
    • Woofer Surround Rubber
    • Peak Power handling 1300W
    • RMS Power Range (Watts) 380
    • Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 12"
    • Sensitivity 84dB
    • Frequency Response 30Hz - 1kHz
    • found at:::---- http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+Xplod+12%22+Single-Voice-Coil+4-Ohm+Subwoofer/9202481.p?id=1218057724056&skuId=9202481

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    Pump the brakes!
    You need to know the RMS power rating of the sub you are powering.
    Dont exceed the RMS power rating of the sub by more than 25%.
    If you see a peak power rating on either the sub or the amp, ignor it, means nothing. Always compare RMS ratings.
    Example: a Sony 12" Xplod sub, boasting 1200 watts, will only handle, 350 watts RMS, so the amp you choose to power the sub should be 350 watts RMS as well, and should not exceed more than 25% of the RMS power handling (487.5 watts).
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    Byron
    www.distinctbeat.com

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    ya youll be fine 800watts is at peak power on the speakers

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    Sub not very loud


    Hey buddy your question caught my eye because i have a buddy that was wondering the same thing not so long ago-and im no expert but i have had my run with rockford fosgate amps and a few sonys as well. So first of all if you know fosgates well you know that they ALL put out more power than what they are rated at -example your 400 watt fosgate amp is rated at 400 watts but if you got it new than it came with a birth sheet that shows you how much its really putting out-im just throwing a number out there but its probably closer to 480 actual watts. Now you get the sony amp and it says its a 1000 watts but its all bs -it actually is rated at 400 continous usable watts- so the reason that its not any louder than the fosgate is because you bought an amp with almost identical power output. The other part of the problem is that you are limited by your speaker-you could buy an amp that actually puts out 1,200 watts and plug it right in to your sub and its going to probably blow within 30 seconds or quite possibly catch fire. The numbers when dealing with car audio that you have to pay attention to are the R.M.S. power ratings - never look at the peak or max wattage because its all bs and yea its all bs- As i was saying you are going to be limited by your sub because as it stands right now you cant put much more power on that thing without blowing or roasting the coil. All subs have a limiting factor as to how much air they can move- this is called X-MAX and that tells you how far the speaker cone actually moves from start to peak excursion- once you have supplied the speaker with enough power to reach its x-max then thats it -no matter how much power you put on it it wont move any more air than that-and you will create heat and distortion if you try and thats just begging for a blown sub. If you want it louder than upgrade your sub to something that will move some serious air like a jl audio w7 or orion hcca subs -those subs can get it on like dammmmm or easier than that get another sub and then your moving twice as much air at a fourth of the price of buying a balls out jl w7-anyhow good luck with that

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    Hello,

    To run 2 subs, the amp would be a little small. The subs will run OK, they just won't be very loud.

    It's usually better to compare and match up the RMS power rather than the peak power. The Sony XS-L10P5B sub has a peak power handling figure of 1200 watts, but the RMS is 300 watts. The Sony XM-ZZR3301 monoblock amp puts out 1100 watts peak, but only 330 watts RMS. They would work great together, 1 sub, 1 amp. But if you add another sub, each one would only be getting about 165 watts. They'd work OK, just not as loud as they could be.

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      CEA-2006 Compliant Amplifier Power Standard:
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    I'm assuming the subwoofers were bridged and couldn't handle the power. Make sure you have atleast 300 watts peak power wattage.

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