Question about Sony Car Audio & Video
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: OEM gm stereo
If your amplifier has what they call High level inputs (basically inputs on the amp that you run the speaker wires from your radio into), you can splice wires from where the connectors are on your rear speaker(s), still leaving the speaker hooked up, and use those as an input into the amp. If your amplifier does not have high level inputs, a convertor is available to turn an audio signal from your radio output speaker wires ( spliced in just as above, leaving the speaker hooked up), into an rca output jack. Or the best thing to do would be to buy another say 2-4 channel amp w/high level inputs and rca inputs and outputs, and run your rear speaker wires into the amp. Then you'll be able to run the rca cables out of that amp and into the sub amp, and you'll have the new amp to power your rear speakers or rears and fronts. That would be ideal. But, A convertor is your best bet. Got em at best buy, circuit city, etc. Hope this was helpful.
Posted on Nov 28, 2007
Hello.... I am sorry to hear you are having problems. The reason for this is that since you have a stock stereo, the shop (or person) whom installed the amp and subs used a line out converter. What this part does is allows the connection of RCA cables to the factory head unit. Almost all bass signals are always in stereo, so since you were only hooking an amplifier for just subs, you can actually just connect to just one of the rear speakers instead of connecting to the right and left. Just makes the install a little quicker. There is nothing wrong with this as I usually do the same thing in our shop. However, if you are going to be using the balance control, then you will need to go back to the shop and have them hook the converter up in stereo (to both rear speakers). Hope this helps!
20 year car audio/video installer
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
That appears to be a good amp and should power your subs with no problem.
You will want to install a line-level converter to your stock speaker outputs and use RCA cables to the amp. Here's a link to SonicElectronix line-level converters. The PAC SNI-35 is OK if your stock radio has a remote turn-on lead. If not, you should probably look at the PAC TRUNK-LOC. It still a 2-channel line output converter but also includes a trigger output to power on your amp.
I tried Interfire's web site to see if they have a downloadable manual for your IB2400c amp. I could not find it, so it may be that it is no longer in print or no longer available.
You may want to go to their support page (link attached) and send them an email.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
Here are the factory wiring colors match these to the aftermarket names (12v to 12v Ign - Ign, etc)
1993 Ford Probe Car Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Pink
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Light Green/Yellow
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Blue
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
did you cut them and splice into them. Because instead splice them all together and it should all work. or if you have a multichannel amp just hook ur factories into the amp as well.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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