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Re: subs make a noise
If your sub or its amplifier is placed too close to the transmission box, this situation can cause interference. I suggest that you buy a ground loop isolator or an RCA filter. If the problem is about grounding, then you have to buy a ground loop isolator. Otherwise, an RCA filter can solve your problem. First of all, the problem has to be diagnosed.
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You can double check by measuring the voltage on the outputs playing a 60Hz test tone at full volume. You should get around 7-10 volts AC. I have a 60Hz tone .Mp3 link on my site - http://sparky3489.webs.com/settinggainampclass.htm
Sounds like you are running your subs at to low of ohm. Amps are rated differently on the levels of ohms or resistance that they can get to. If you have a dual 4ohm sub and run it in pairrell it will drop to 2ohm and if you run the same sub in series it will be 8ohm. Your amp will go into protection if the ohm is to low.
The subs are making that sound when the bottom out + when they reach full excursion be careful if it keeps happening eventually your subs will fail because you will end up damaging the subs voice coil.
You did not specify what type of enclosure the subs are in or if they share the same airspace. But the sound you describe sounds suspiciously like the enclosure is at fault and not the sub itself.
Remove and reverse the subs in the box and test for the noise again. If the noise is still produced on the same side of the box, it's the enclosure. If the noise follows the sub, then you have a problem with that sub.
If the box is making the noise, and it's a ported box, you probably have "port noise". If it's a sealed enclosure, you could have either an air leak or flexing noise. In either case, repair the enclosure or put the subs in a new one. If the sub itself is making the noise, there probably isn't much you can do. Most likely some part of the voice coil assembly is touching where it should not.
u might have to turned your amp so u can play both subs your amp might be to small to run both subs at the same time an u gotta play around with the settings on your cd player so when u blasted your subs it has that nice bass to it not that poping sound.
if sound also goes away when throttle is released and sound returns when throttle is pressed down, then you have engine noise from car engine electronics. In older cars, this was quite noticeable when the cars had distributor caps. The electrical noise caused by arcing required for the spark plugs could be your issue. It is resolved with a noise filter which gets wired inline leading to your in-dash deck and power amp (if you have one). The filter can be found many places including Radio Shack and Crutchfield.com. First find your total wattage draw for each component of the sound system (deck and amplifier), then divide by 12 to get current draw through filter. Purchase that size filter or larger.
Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.
Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.
You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.
Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.
Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.
The only real way of telling is a true bench test of the speakers. The speakers should be but on an amp with an adjustable tone generator at o db. The amp. should be hooked up to load resistors with 0 db(.775 milivolts) frequency sweeping hooked up to a ocilliscope to test properly. Anything else would be just a shot in the dark or a quess.