The case has two screws in the back at the top. Even with both screws removed the case halves (front and back) will not seperate. There are a couple of slide switches on the front. Other than that there are no other fasteners visible. The battery type (LR44) is molded into the back case. The Casio manual says something about taking it to a Casio service center to have the battery replaced. Yea right. That's bunk.
Remove two screws at top. Then there are 3 hidden **** on both the right and left side of unit for a total of 6. Pry the case apart starting at top on one side. Then slide a small thin screw drive down the side till you come to first *** and pry just a little till it comes apart. The first *** is on the side at display height center. The next *** is between the GT key and division key on side. The next *** is on side at top of plus key. The case will now swing open like a door with the same 3 **** on on side of case. The top of case **** are female. The bottom of case **** are male. The battery slides in and out. Make sure you get + and - right.
My problem is I changed the battery but display still only works with solar power.
Taking the back off The Casio JF-100 calculator is similar to the ...TE. Remove the two screws at the top back. Place a small screwdriver blade along the seam where the back plate fits into the front plate. There are 3 fasteners on each long side and 1 fastener on each of the front and back sides. Find the spot where it's the easiest to separate the back plate from the top plate (there are only two). Carefully twist the blade to cause an opening. Then proceed sequentially around the perimeter releasing each fastener. The front plate will easily separate from the back plate at this time. There are no parts that will fall-out--don't worry. Replace the battery. Press the front and back plates together to snap the fasteners.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Kurt- I have successfully completed a d-i-y battery door replacement on my Canon A1100IS, and I make no claims about being an "expert." My training was watching u-tube videos of guys disassembling digital cameras (other models). Here's how to open the case on the A1100is, which is not really much different than opening the case on most any compact digital camera. Using a size #0000 phillips screwdriver (Sears sells a set of 6 minis--slotted and phillips--for $10), I removed the nine screws from the side and bottom of the case plus one inside the mini-usb cover and the one inside the battery compartment. Then, I gently worked the front and rear of the case apart (the top of the case halves have two snap clips that hold them together. Unlike some cameras, the A1100IS does not have any flexible cable straps between its front and rear covers. With the case halves removed, I then used a tweezers to move the straight end of the hinge spring out of its original place next to the tripod socket. That released spring pressure on the hinge and I could then easily remove the hinge pin with the tweezers. Then, it's simply a matter of placing the replacement door's hinge/spring combo in the proper location and inserting the hinge pin to hold it there. I purchased a new door from Canon for $8.42 plus shipping). Then, I used the tweezers to position the straight hinge spring end in the slot next to the tripod socket. The only thing left was to wipe my fingerprints off of the LCD screen and then gently replace the front and rear case halves--snapping the case's top together and then replacing the nine screws.
There are a couple plastic tabs on either the top or bottom of the front half of the headlamp (the half with the bulb). By "pinching" the case hard (thumb on top, index finger on bottom) the tabs should disconnect and the two halves pull apart. If you should happen to break the tabs the front unit can be secured with couple dabs of super glue.
its not hard to do you need a gasket and seal kit too the hardest part is seperating the case halves . do not place a screwdriver in the case halves to seperate you will cause a leak ! remove the nuts on the yokes first then the case . mark with a scribed line and remove the trans speedo cable assembly set it aside tap and pry the case halves apart pull off the back half of case the front half is where you want everything to stay in place try to keep it standing up so rear case is up then you can lift up the front output shaft the chain and the planetary remove the rest of parts install new seals and reassemble the case uses rtv black sealant instead of gasket
This procedure must be performed on both sides - you'll find the air filter cases mounted high, immediately behind the cowlings. Yamaha specifies removing the cowlings, but I just remove the top screw in the front of the cowling and bend it forward slightly to get to screws and bolts.
The air cleaner cases are mounted by hex-head screws top and bottom; loosen them, then look for a large rubber hose from the case to a duct beside the case. The case is held by a flexible clamp with a phillips-head screw adjustment - loosen the screw and the case can be removed.
Turn the case so that the rubber hose is facing up; there are five screws holding the case halves together. Remove them to split the case. The filter is secured to the side of the case that the rubber hose joins, loosen the two screws in the front (forward-facing) of the filter and remove.
Secure new filter with the screws that held the old one, rejoin the case halves, put the case behind the cowling, secure the rubber hose to the duct, screw top and bottom bolts through the case to their mounts, tighten cowling mounts.
Had a similar problem a couple of months ago, The left button started playing up, not working with every mouse click, it gradualy got worse till it was nearly unusable.. I suspected that the microswitch under the silver button had some dirt in it. After taking a deep breath I removed the battery and the screws that hold the case lower and upper halves together and was able to seperate the case front by about 3/4 of an inch. Then using a contact cleanerServisol Super 10 and supplied flexible straw I squirted cleaner into both mouse click buttons. After waiting for cleaner to evaporate and resecuring case halves and replacing battery I switched on .... The button works 100%..
NOT FAMILIAR WITH THIS PARTICULAR MODEL BUT EXPERIENCE OF MODERN FLAT SCREEN MONITORS ETC. SHOWS THAT MOST HAVE PLASTIC LOCATION STUDS AND/OR 'CLICK' LOCATORS ALONG THE SIDES + TOP & BOTTOM. THE SECURING SCREWS ON THE MONITOR STAND + CONNECTORS AND MAINS SOCKET MAY ALSO 'DOUBLE' AS CASE SECURING SCREWS.
FIRST ENSURE THERE ARE NO MORE SCREWS HIDDEN UNDER LABELS THEN GENTLY, - REPEAT G E N T L Y - PRISE WITH A WIDE BLADE ALONG THE EDGE, USING CARDBOARD OR PLASTIC WEDGES TO KEEP THE HALVES APART. DO NOT FORCE THE BLADE AS THE PLASTIC CASE LOCATOR SLOTS MAY BE DAMAGED
Hello, To disassemble your monitor follow these steps. 1. Remove the
stand, usually 2 to 4 screws 2. Now there will be screws in each corner
on the back of the monitor. 3. Take a small flat blade screw driver and
seperate the two halves of the case. The front and back are held
together by plastic latches spaced several inches apart around all four
sides. 4. After the back case is off the boards you will be looking for
are under the metal shield, remove the screws that hold it on. 5. Check
my web site
at www.ccl-la.com , we have pictures of what the bad caps look like if
you are not sure. 6. Be sure to replace any capacitors that have raised
and blown tops.
I hope this helps, If so please rate my solution. If
you need more info let me know.
Remove all the case screws, except the rubber feet. Remove the handle. unplug both batterys, seperate the two halves of the case. A plastic tray seperating the two batteries will be preventing the removal of the bottom battery bracket screw which is metal. I drilled through the plactic to enable a long screwdriver to remove the bottom bracket screw. An extendable magnet was used to retrieve the screw, although not necessary. The top battery bracket screw can be removedat any time once clearance is gained. . What a PITA, stupid engineering!