Question about Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

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Handy Master Fumes so Bad your Eyes can"t take the smell

I have adjusted the air pump pressure anywhere from 2 psi to 3 psi range and it runs fine until I install the top sheet metal back on it then it puts out fumes so bad you can't stand it for it burns your eyes so bad. I have cleaned the fuel filter screen and nothing was in it. I took the rotar and blades out to relace them but they were like new so I blew everything out with compressed air a put it back together and does the same thing. I took the nozzle out blew it with compressed air and found nothing wrong ,it was perfectly clean, along with both fuel line and air hoses. Spark plug is gapped at .055 " where as a sticker on inside of heater reads range is .055" -.060".No mater where I adjust the air pressure ,it runs fine until I install the top sheet metal cover.Can anybody help me with this problem? Thanks..

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It sounds like it's not getting enough air to fuel mix, check your lines.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Starts then shuts off


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 17, 2015 | Reddy R60A Utility Heater

1 Answer

Long cranking toyta camry 2004


The reasons for long cranking are as follows:
- Specific gravity of the storage battery is low.
- Battery terminals sulfated. Clean with warm water, keeping your eyes and hand away.
- Cranking motor is drawing more amperes (Current). Service the starter motor.
- Engine compression low. Check the valve clearance.
- Spark plugs gaps are wide open. Adjust the gaps.
- Fuel pump pressure is low. (Normal range 38 psi - 44psi).
- Leaky Fuel injectors.
- Clogged element air cleaner.
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1 Answer

Starts then shuts down


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

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1 Answer

My 3/4 hp shuts off and on roughly every 2 or 3 seconds when using. i pumped some air into the pressure tank and it worked much better. but i pumped in a little more and now its every second. i'm...


The switch is not the problem. The problem is the pressure tank. I am assuming you have a captive air tank with a bladder in it. The air pressure in the tank needs to be 2 lbs below the turn on pressure. Heres how to acheive that. Look at the pressure gauge on the pump and determine what pressure the pump is turning on. Next, turn the pump off and drain the pressure tank, then shut off the water to the whole house. If the pressure tank does not drain all the way, then you have a problem with the bladder in the tank. Once the tank is drained put the required amount of air in the tank. (if the pump turned on at 30 psi, then put 28 psi in the tank and if the pump turned on at 20, then put 18 psi in the tank) Check it with a tire gauge to confirm. Now turn the pump back on and see how it does. If done properly, your problem should be fixed. If it is a bad bladder, you will have to buy a new pressure tank.

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1 Answer

Smoking shop up and fumes burning eyes,smells rich ,how do i adjust?


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1 Answer

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The first will change when the pump turns on and off for your low psi setting and the high setting simultaneously.
The second will allow you to raise or lower just the high setting. There should be a diagram under the black cap to show which is which. Adjust the high side only and just a 1\4 turn then run the compressor and see if that takes care of the high setting.

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1 Answer

Master Reddy 30,000 btu heater put out nasty fumes.


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This is a fuel delivery problem. Look for:
  1. always start troubleshooting fuel problems on a Hot Surface Ignitor heater by checking the pump pressure!
  2. restricted fuel filter
  3. air leak
  4. restricted nozzle
Troubleshooting tips

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