Question about Halex Liquid Tight 90 Degree Elbow, 3/4"

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Clayton mark freeze proof hydrant

When i pull handle i can watch rod coming up but no water do i have to dig up hydrant to fix assume rod is broke at bottom at valve can i replace rod without digging

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IT IS FROZEN NO WATER COMES OUT

Posted on Jan 03, 2013

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You are going to have to dig and replace the entire freezeless faucet. sounds like it either froze or rusted off.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Repairing 3 leaky frost free Clayton Mark water hydrants?


No, you don't need to know how deep they are.
Usually the rubber tip called a plunger is all that needs to be replaced.
You'll need to know your model number or easier is to just bring the old one with you to the store.
On this page is an excellent diagram of a Clayton Hydrant.

Clayton Mark Yard Hydrants parts

Here is a video of how to take one apart.

Oct 03, 2016 | Washing Machines

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How to I keep a freeze-proof hydrant from popping open?


The bottom of the rod has a rubber stopper that fails and can cause this. You must turn off water and remove the upper part of faucet to pull out rod.

Aug 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What would the problem if the rod moves only a few inches and doesn't come out with the head off?


The rubber end part down in the ground has deteriorated so badly the whole thing is stuck. You could try using some non-toxic lube (mineral oil?) poured in from the top, then work it up and down and it should slowly begin to come further, until you can finally pull it out.

Jan 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rod stuck hydrant


Loosen the packing nut at the bottom of that rod that goes into the pipe/handle. Go to an autoparts store and buy a slide hammer. Unhook the handle from the rod and connect the slide hammer using any bolts etc that you have. Use the slide hammer straight up to free the rod. Tighten the packing nut back down to stop leaks, or DIG the whole thing up.

Feb 24, 2013 | Water Source YH-4 - 4 Yard Hydrant Is...

1 Answer

My frost free yard hydrant has stopped working. It's not leaking, it just doesn't work


Internally there is a long stem that operates a lever valve which is under ground. Which opens & closes as you pull open the handle, and push to close the handle.
The connection at that Rodney some sort, either at the valve or the handle has broke.
it might be able to be located? For repair, if not, it might be time to spend another $50 - $125 or so for another one. There are so many varieties and qualities. I personally would try for the repair, as the repair kits are FAR less expensive. You just have to dig it up and remove it. Then once repaired, reinstall. Just remember: Turn the Main Off.

here is an example of what a repair kit looks like...

Simmons Mfg 850SB Yard Hydrant Parts Kit

Jan 01, 2011 | Halex Liquid Tight 90 Degree Elbow, 3/4"

1 Answer

Freeze proof faucet dripping badly (hardly used 6 yr old) bolt holding plastic handle seems pretty well rusted on. I'm trying toi figure out if there is a servicable washer that needs replacement.


I assume that you are refering to a wall mounted hydrant. If that is the case, most do have a bibb washer at the end. You have to remove the packing nut and then the stem to get to it. Some brands you can do this while the handle is still on. Hope this helps.

May 12, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there any adjustment


Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.

Mar 05, 2009 | Plumbing

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