Question about Halex Liquid Tight 90 Degree Elbow, 3/4"

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Clayton mark freeze proof hydrant

When i pull handle i can watch rod coming up but no water do i have to dig up hydrant to fix assume rod is broke at bottom at valve can i replace rod without digging

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IT IS FROZEN NO WATER COMES OUT

Posted on Jan 03, 2013

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You are going to have to dig and replace the entire freezeless faucet. sounds like it either froze or rusted off.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Repairing 3 leaky frost free Clayton Mark water hydrants?


No, you don't need to know how deep they are.
Usually the rubber tip called a plunger is all that needs to be replaced.
You'll need to know your model number or easier is to just bring the old one with you to the store.
On this page is an excellent diagram of a Clayton Hydrant.

Clayton Mark Yard Hydrants parts

Here is a video of how to take one apart.

Oct 03, 2016 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to I keep a freeze-proof hydrant from popping open?


The bottom of the rod has a rubber stopper that fails and can cause this. You must turn off water and remove the upper part of faucet to pull out rod.

Aug 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What would the problem if the rod moves only a few inches and doesn't come out with the head off?


The rubber end part down in the ground has deteriorated so badly the whole thing is stuck. You could try using some non-toxic lube (mineral oil?) poured in from the top, then work it up and down and it should slowly begin to come further, until you can finally pull it out.

Jan 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an American Valve M72AS Frost Proof Sillcock that is leaking around the stem when turned on. I replaced the packing under the handle with no fix. Is there another packing/seal deeper inside? How...


AMERICAN VALVE 1/2-in Dual Pattern Brass Sillcock Valve M72AS...

Do NOT purchase this product... Mine lasted about four years for me before the internal stem/rod cracked. This caused a constant leak when it was turned on. Doing research for parts... I've noticed a lot of reviews on the internet about this same problem as to it leaking through the handle. I thought it was a gasket problem but after analyzing it, it turned out to be the "Integral Vacuum Breaker" system malfunctioning after a few years of use. The tip of the stem is a moveable item loaded on a spring and if it gets stuck closed, the water in the stem/rod does not drain out causing water to stay in the center stem/rod and of course freezing during the winter. When Spring comes and you turn on the system, that's when it leaks in and around the handle.
Another important note: I could NOT find replacement parts i.e. center stem/rod therefore causing me to buy another new Freeze-Proof Sillcock. It doesn't stop here yet....The newer ones are mostly made of aluminum and the center stem/rod is all aluminum...NOT copper!!! This part being all aluminum which I believe will be a major problem to come!!! As you know aluminum creates lots of oxidation with layers of white aluminum powder. This will now be going through your hoses that might feed your garden/food, your pets water bowls outside and your pools!! This is not good. They need to keep this stuff copper or CPVC but NOT ALUMINUM.Look up "Aluminum poisoning"
I have pictures of this (center stem/rod) and how I fixed the old copper center stem/rod for a back up when my aluminum one I just bought from Lowes fails in a few years. I tested it and it works (my old copper stem/rod)!!! I fixed mine by removing the spring in the tip and putting the tip back in the stem and filling the center of the stem/rod with Liquid Nails adhesive. If I was to do it again, I would use a Rubber Silicon via a tube gun.
My suggestion is to go to the old type of Frost-Free Sillcock "BRASS" NOT ALUMINIUM and doesn't have a hollow center stem/rod for water to freeze in and also doesn't have the anti-Siphon design. It might be a neat design but when the parts start to oxidize/rust etc. it then will stick and keep the water from being aloud to leave the stem/rod therefore causing a crack and WILL leak when opened during the Spring.

Jun 10, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

My frost free yard hydrant has stopped working. It's not leaking, it just doesn't work


Internally there is a long stem that operates a lever valve which is under ground. Which opens & closes as you pull open the handle, and push to close the handle.
The connection at that Rodney some sort, either at the valve or the handle has broke.
it might be able to be located? For repair, if not, it might be time to spend another $50 - $125 or so for another one. There are so many varieties and qualities. I personally would try for the repair, as the repair kits are FAR less expensive. You just have to dig it up and remove it. Then once repaired, reinstall. Just remember: Turn the Main Off.

here is an example of what a repair kit looks like...

Simmons Mfg 850SB Yard Hydrant Parts Kit

Jan 01, 2011 | Halex Liquid Tight 90 Degree Elbow, 3/4"

1 Answer

Freeze proof faucet dripping badly (hardly used 6 yr old) bolt holding plastic handle seems pretty well rusted on. I'm trying toi figure out if there is a servicable washer that needs replacement.


I assume that you are refering to a wall mounted hydrant. If that is the case, most do have a bibb washer at the end. You have to remove the packing nut and then the stem to get to it. Some brands you can do this while the handle is still on. Hope this helps.

May 12, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there any adjustment


Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.

Mar 05, 2009 | Plumbing

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