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I have a siemens current operated 5sz3 440 earth leakage circuit breaker and i need to know how to connect it. it will be using mains voltage (240v ) there are 4 input and 4 out put terminals. these are marked as follows, top: left to right 1, 3, 5, N bottom left to right 2, 4, 6, N. Can you help

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You need to see a electritian for this one man please i can see you never did this so please dont try to heart your self and seek an electritian advice please electricity kill man please dont play whid it thanks and good luck

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

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Forgot to open water supply for my new washing machine and when it started flashing I only realized the problem.As soon as it washes it trips my main switch and says Earth Leakage????Please help!!!!!

Hello Dora,

An Earth-leakage circuit breaker (ELCB) is a safety device used in electrical installations with high Earth impedance to prevent shock. It detects small stray voltages on the metal enclosures of electrical equipment, and interrupts the circuit if a dangerous voltage is detected.

You should have an appliance service person come out for a service call since there may be a dangerous shock hazard present on the machine.


Apr 17, 2016 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

As soon as i plug it in the circuit breaker trips.

You have a short. It is either short to ground or short circuiting. Check the cord very carefully for breaks. Make sure the ground plug is in tacked. Also try a different outlet to make sure the problem is the tool.

Mar 13, 2016 | Dewalt Dw303m Reciprocating Saws

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GW708U Fisher and Paykel Washing machine Power Controller board trips earth leakage breaker

Hi your pump may be leaking the earth to trip breaker.
Check or replace the pump.

Feb 04, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

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All the neutral and ground (or "earth") wires in a building are tied (or "connected") together at the incoming service main breaker panel - and that is the only place they should ever be tied together - because it is "upstream" of all the fuses and/or circuit breakers which are there to protect the hot (or "live") wires for the various circuits installed in the building.

In the absence of an earth wire (= ground wire in US/Canadian English), if the appliance suffered some damage that caused a short circuit between the high voltage "hot" lead and the case of the appliance, the damage would make the case live and it would cause an electrical shock to anyone who touched it.

If the case is earthed by using a ground wire (= earth wire in British English), if that same damage occurred the hot lead would immediately be shorted to ground and in theory cause the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to open, thus eliminating the danger of a live case.The ground or "earth" wire is a circuit's safety protective wire that normally carries no current.

It is there to force a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker or GFCI to trip if a fault condition occurs in any appliances, their flexible cords or plugs that are connected into the circuit.

By carrying away the excess current in a fault condition - which should cause the protecting fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip - the "ground" or "earth" wire protects the building and its occupants because the power should be cut off before anyone gets electrocuted or any overloaded circuit wiring or appliances catch on fire.

The neutral is the normal "return" wire: in systems where the load is supplied from only one hot (or "live") wire, the neutral completes the circuit and carries current back from the load to the power station.

All the neutral and ground (or "earth") wires in a building are tied or linked together at the incoming service main breaker panel. This is the only place they should ever be tied together because it is "upstream" of all the fuses and/or circuit breakers protecting the hot (or "live") wires for the various circuits installed in the building.

Warning: we must never assume that a neutral is safe to touch: it has to be checked with a voltmeter or a voltage indicator to be sure it is not "live". This is because a neutral wire is designed to carry current under normal circumstances.

So, if a neutral wire going back to the incoming main breaker panel has not been properly connected - or suffers a deliberate disconnection or some accidental damage which causes it to break - then it and any neutral wires connected to it further downstream will go live up to the break because of being connected to the downstream loads which still have hot feeds coming into them!

That is why we should never use a neutral as a substitute for a proper, separate, ground or "earth" wire.

Aug 01, 2011 | Refrigerators

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Samsung Fridge keeps tripping main electricity?

This needs a serious check up as it is possible that the compressor motor is drawing inmore current than required. Also check if the capacitor had failed.
If the trip is a ELCB then check if the earth connection( ground) is poor and so the circuit breaker sensing external voltage will trip off.
Use a clamp testor to measure the starting current of the motor to confirm.

Jul 25, 2011 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Can a 240 volt outlet be ran off this breaker and can a 240 volt electric baseboard heater be wired to it or should i use double pole breaker?

You need 240 breaker:
Notice that your 240V breaker is twice as wide as regular 120V breaker.
Notice that both switches are tied together on 240V breaker, making this a double-pole breaker.
For more information about breakers and 120-240V circuits:

Jan 24, 2011 | Siemens 20 Amp Single Pole Breaker 120/240...

1 Answer

The T104p3 timer is getting power but the clock won't turn and the manual switch also doesn't work. we had a power outage, and the timer has not worked since then.

If I understand correctly, your T104 240Volt Intermatic timer worked fine before.
Now the clock will not rotate.
The manual switch doesn't operate the load.

You checked for electricity.
But did you check for 240 Volts across terminals 1 and 3?
It sounds like the circuit breaker is tripped off on one leg so circuit has 120V and tests positive for power, but not 240V.
Reset breaker all the way over and then click breaker back.

Back to the timer.
If you test electricity at terminal 1 to ground and it reads 120V, that means timer is receiving power from one leg of the 240 circuit.
If you test terminal 3 to ground and it reads 120V, that means same as above.
But unless you test for 240V across terminals 1 and 3, the tests above mean nothing.

Let's understand 240V circuit.
You know all single-phase household circuits require two wires to complete the circuit.
Same is true for 120V and 240V circuits >> each needs two wires to complete the circuit.
Inside the main breaker box are 3 busbars.
There are 2 hot busbars and 1 neutral busbar.
120V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from either hot busbar and 1 neutral from neutral busbar
240V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from one hot busbar and 1 hot wire from other hot busbar.

The 240V circuit breaker snaps down over both hot busbars, and then 2 wires come out of that breaker and go to 240V appliance, or to T104 timer terminals 1 and 3.

If circuit breaker is not delivering on both those hot wires, then all along the way you can test for electricity and test will show 120V but not 240V.
So it appears as though circuit has electricity, but circuit will not operate until both hot wires are available to complete the circuit.

That's why you test for 240Volt across terminals 1 and 3
And also test for 240Volt across both wires at circuit breaker.

Going back to timer.
Unless there was lightning strike that fried insides of timer, but somehow left everything else untouched, the manual override should work if circuit has 240V, and Load (lights, motor, fan) is operable.

A simple test is to move circuit breaker wires to another 240Volt breaker and see if timer works again.
If breaker will not reset, you will have to replace 240 circuit breaker, or add a subpanel if your busbars are burned and broken.

Dec 18, 2010 | Intermatic & Indoor/Outdoor Rain Tight...

1 Answer

I installed the above gfci with the pigtail side adjacent to the neutral bar, contrary to intructions. The gfci trips immediately when power is turned on the gfci is switched on. What could be wrong and...

1. Did you connect the neutral wire (white) from the breaker to the neutral bar?
2. Did you connect the circuit neutral wire (white) to the circuit breaker. If there is a neutral load the load MUST be connected to the breaker no to the panel neutral bar.
3. If this is a 50A load, what is the appliance connected to the circuit? If it is a range, quite often the newer ranges have a ground wire connected to the burner mount. A small current leakage in the element can trip the GFCI. Check each element (with power off) from the wiring terminals to ground with an ohm meter.

Oct 22, 2010 | Siemens 50 Amp Ground Fault Circuit...

1 Answer

I am installing a sub panel in a detached building from my house. Which is 100 ft away. I plan to have four separate circuits. One that will service a ceiling fan and 3 for plug ins that will only run a TV...

You could use 6/3 with ground. You must take an equipment ground conductor along with your current carrying conductors. Still drive a ground rod at the building, and add a seperate ground bar in the sub panel. Connect your equipment grounding conductor from main building along with the equipment grouding conductor to the ground rod. Do not bond the neutral in the sub panel to ground. Be aware you will still have some voltage drop, so a 220V air conditioner might be better.

Sep 10, 2010 | General Electric GE ELECTRICAL TQD22200X2...

1 Answer

I can't get 240v across the bottom element. Where should I start? Shouldn't it have 240v across it? I can ground one side of the meter to the tank and can get 120v to each side, but not 240v across the...

If that is indeed so you have a "Short" between Phase and Earth. .. YES one should have the mains Voltage across the Load, But NEVER anything between Phase & Earth. Look think of it all like this. The Phase comes in, to a, say, a switch, from switch, to thermostat, from thermostat, to One Side of the "Load" Element. The "Other side of that "Load" Element then goes to Neutral. Circuit Complete. Two elements, wired in series would indeed split the Voltage, if wired that way. If done like this, but if wired in parallel, then, again Both would have One End, connected to Phase, & the "Other" side(s) would go to Neutral. Thus the circuit is complete. Some setups are more complex, and use two elements. but essentially all the same. The elements could be wired in series or parallel, depending on current draw/resistance. The Phase is the wire always "Broken" and the Neutral is always "Common".

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