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I have a carrier heat pump model FK4DNF003. The dehumidify function is not working. It is set for 65, but it is over 70 and very humid with mold developing in the apartment. The heat and cool functions otherwise work. Please help.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: Hi- Can not tell if my unites are straight cool / heat or a heat pump.

another easy way is to look at your stat. if it says heat cool off then odds are its a straight cool. if it says heat,off , cool and emerg heat its a heat pump. ,or turn it on in heat at max heat. does outside unit run? if yes then its a heat pump if no then its straight cool with strips. good luck

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

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mastatech
  • 478 Answers

SOURCE: Heat pump cycling on and off.

It sounds as if you you have a low charge of refrigerant, r22. When the unit comes on outside, the outdoor coils become the lowside, there is a low pressure switch that is tripping out contactor protecting the compressor.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: No cool air. Thermostat AUX light turned on

I suggest you call a qualified service repair man. There are as many ways to connect a heat pump as there are people doing them. Nothing is standard industry wide that has anything to do directly with color codes, so it would be meaningless to go into them here. The terminals may be adapted to standard but but the thermostat manufacturer may not follow any terminal designations.

However you may just have an extra wire touching one of the terminals inside the thermostat. You can check this by removing the cover. Look where the wires attach to the terminal screws on the thermostat. Sometimes a new service person cuts the insulation back too far here or in the outdoor or indoor units and a "whisker" from one wire can touch the other terminals. A whisker is not the normal case try and move it away from another terminal if its is touching there. However, you may have jumpers in place especially if you have W, W1, W2... at any of the 3 sections, meaning the outdoor, indoor and thermostat.

If you can tell me the terminal designations R,Y, W1, W2, E, G, O, (B)... at the thermostat and the color thereon each, then at the indoor unit terminals or wire designations and the color there, then at the outdoor unit and the color thereon each terminal or wire designation there. I might be able to help if the above whisker check you don't find anything.:

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

mastatech
  • 478 Answers

SOURCE: Heat Pump Cycles On and Off and Air Handler Noisy

I am pretty sure you have a low charge and the pressure switch is kicking it off. probably just a pound or two however the accumulater will sometimes hold more.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Westpoint split unit A/C Model WSM-24.

there is most likly no problem with the machine itself. most likly its oversized. how many sq. ft. is the space. 700 sq. ft. per 12000 btu's is the norm. If its over sized the unit will cool the space quickly and not have the time to remove humidity like its supposed to. check your sq. ft. and on the unit you will see the BTU's of the unit and go from there. I hope this answers your question!!!

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

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How do i know how to set controls on my model 40 Friedrich dehumifier


I would set them to the relative humidity I wanted in that area. You want to keep below 50% otherwise you will eventuially get mold growth.

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I do believe this one of those models that uses one display for both setting of humidity level and the timer , make sure you are viewing the timer function and not the humidity function , this is a very common complaint with these type as many times one sets the on time correct but then sets what they believe to be off time when they really are adjusting the humidity room level , there should be tiny lights that show function you are adjusting

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Circular arrow button on my dehumidifier


On my particular model (Keystone KSTAD70A) the circular arrow button toggles the continuous mode. What this does is keep the dehumidifier running even after the target humidity is reached... this is particularly usefull when you are trying to dry out a room that got flooded (i.e. basement after a bad rain, or a bathroom that had a plumbing issue) before mold sets in... once that happens all is lost... :)

I can only assume that it would be the same function on most models.

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I have a DDR7009EE and the fan runs continuously even when the humidity in the room is below the setting on the machine. Shouldn't the fan stop when the desired humidity is reached?


Lyle, your particular model is designed for the fan to function constantly. However, the fan running doesn't mean the compressor is always running. The reason the unit was designed this way, is for the air to be continually moving, and when the humidity sensor picks up a rise in the humidity level (above where you have it set) the compressor will turn ON and extract that humidity.

Your unit is working as it should. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Jul 28, 2011 | Danby DDR5009EE Dehumidifier

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What is the right temperature setting when the room has a lot of water?


You can't control the temperature setting but you can control the humidity level. I would start somewhere between 35 and 40%- making sure to empty the dehumidifier promptly when full. 40% humidity will prevent mold and mildew growth- and that musty smell- but keep the room from becoming too dry.

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Works well but


Yup, they eat energy.

An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.

Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.

In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.

From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.

If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.

Oct 02, 2008 | DeLonghi DH40P Dehumidifier

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Heats up basement


Dehumidifiers and how they work
Heat pump dehumidifiers

Dehumidifiers use a heat pump (similar to an air conditioner's heat pump) or chemical adsorbents to remove moisture from the air without cooling the air.

A heat pump dehumidifier uses a fan to draw indoor air over a heat exchange coil. The coil is almost freezing. The water in the air condenses on the coil and is drained. A second heat exchange coil reheats the air, which the dehumidifier exhausts into the room.

A heat pump dehumidifier dumps heat lost from the compressor and fan motors into the air. It returns to the indoor air the heat generated by the dehumidifier turning water vapour to liquid. I got this off the internet

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What is the Dry setting on air conditioner?


Hi, I know this question's been up a while and I'm not sure if you care anymore but here goes anyway.

Most air conditioners are reverse cycle, so they can heat the air in your house or cool it down. What we are concerned with is the cooling side of things. So in this mode a working liquid is sprayed into the evaporator and cools its immediate surroundings. air is blown over the evaporator which cools the air. The local temperature around the evaporator is very cold, (how cold exactly I'm not sure) so the air in this region has a very poor ability to hold water and so (especially on a humid day) water condenses out of this air on the surface of the evaporator, is collected and drained away. The cooling function and dry function both use the "cooling" mechanism of the air conditioner. Both extract water from the air in this way but the primary purpose of the cooling function is to cool the air whereas the primary function of the dry setting is to dry the air... obvious I know.

Now in the dry setting the compressor will run with fan going at I imagine a relatively slow speed to chill and extract as much water from the air as possible and to minimise circulation. After a short time the compressor and fan will cut-out and then after a short interval start up again (I'm not really sure but I assume this is either controlled by a humidity sensor OR the temperature sensor monitors for a small change in temperature and shuts off the compressor and fan when it detects this). Now in cooling mode (depending on what temperature is set) the compressor will run for longer and more frequently and therefore remove more water. So why have a dry mode if cooling mode removes more water?... Well that really has the same answer as the question "when do I use dry mode?"

Well on a particular day where the temperature would normally be considered comfortable but on this day it is unusually humid, your body will find it difficult to radiate heat via sweat because of the already high RH (relative humidity) making you uncomfortable and feel "hot". Using dry mode will reduce this RH without adjusting the temperature by much, but you will perceive an ambient temperature drop due to your body being able to discard heat more easily... hence making you more "comfortable" in same way you would normally feel at that temperature.

On the contrary if you were to use cooling mode (which is regulated by temperature) you would have to set a temperature lower than ambient so that the compressor will "kick-in" rather than the air conditioner just running its fan...agree? So that means the air conditioner will reduce RH (which we want) giving you a perceived temp drop but it is also chasing the temperature which you set which will give a REAL temperature drop. So anyway the point is; if it was an unusually humid day on what would otherwise be a comfortable temperature, using cooling (remember the temp has to be set lower than ambient) instead of dry would result in you feeling cold very quickly due to the perceived AND real temperature drop.

So really the dry setting is for days which aren't too hot, but are humid.

I think my logic makes sense.

cheers Matt

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