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Engine keeps over heating 1150D

Changed thermastates. belts tight. no loss of water, no oil in in water or water in oil. took out tadiator and put the garden hose to it, inside and out. temp gage is correct. radiator hosses are not colapsing

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IY COULD BE YOUR WATER PUMP THAT IS WHAT I WOULD CHECK IF THERE IS PRESURE IN THE RADIATOR AND IS PUSSING OUT WATER IT COULD BE A HEAD

Posted on Jan 13, 2013

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SOURCE: Craftsman LT1000 ridign mower engine dies after 15 min-deadman on

There are several things that could be going on, but what you said in your description about the dead man switch in the seat may need your attention first. The switch it self could also be bad. After you rule this out the next thing I would check is the fuel shut off solenoid located on the carb when you turn the key on to run you should hear a click and feel it in the solenoid. After this you may have a fuel pump issue or a coil issue. but from what you I have described I believethe first 2 itmes I mentioned should fix your problem

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

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Heaters were not heating up machanic replaced water pump + thermastate and timing belt as radiator wasnt heating up now the water is boiling nut has not oil in it the oil level light is flashing but has no...


I don't understand why the timing belt was replaced for a heater problem. Is the car running rough or missing badly? Have you actually checked the oil or just relying on the oil level light. Check the oil and look for signs of water in the oil. If the oil doesn't show signs of water, refill the radiator with antifreeze and bring the oil level up to the full mark. Run the engine until it gets hot. Turn the engine off and let it cool enough so that you can remove the radiator cap. If the radiator is empty again, there must be leak somewhere. If you can't find a leak then it may be going inside the engine. If that is the case then the engine should be running very rough. Let me know what you find.

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Oil leaking out of engine, overheating, loss of power steering


Hi Koe, Most older cars do eventually develop oil leeks, typically/Hopefully its just the rocker-cover gasket that needs replacing. Check the colour and viscosity of the oil in your sump via the dip-stick, its good to change your oil and oil filter every 10,000 klm. Top your engine oil up to the full line on the Dip stick if its low, check your water level in the radiator, the water should be free of oil/dirt and put some antifreeze in, this will help protect your engine and keep the car running cooler, Top up your power steering fluid if it is low, This may fix all the immediate issues, after you replace all the fluids and filters, just run her at an stationary idle (no load on the engine) till she gets warm, take note if your fan is working, also check your belts!! You might find that its not even there! this would make the car over heat and the power steering pump wont work without it. all the best. Ian

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I took my car to get a regular oil change and they end up telling me that i need a new water pump, belt tensioner, and a fan belt & coolant service? my car is a 2005 chevy impala with about 1300,000...


Maybe they are right but most oil change shops try talking customers into things they don't need for commission and trained to do so. If you truly believe you have a problem then take to a real garage. Most of those guys can barely succeed changing the oil.

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Squeaky, squeaky,squeaky!!!! husband changed the serperntine belt....on his way to job interview...hope he makes it...oh yesterday truck died on the freeway a coupla times...he took out the...


The thermostat is a spring loaded round device that keeps the coolant from flowing long enough for the engine to warm up and then it opens to allow fluid to flow to the radiator.

The serpentine belt is a different issue, but related through the water pump which circulates coolant.

Aug 24, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

It over heats we replaced the thermistate (spelled wrong)flushed the radator still over heated took thermastate back out left it out it worked good but now is over heating again


CHECK WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE SEE IF ITS LEAKING ANTIFREEZE IF SO WATER PUMP SHAFT BEARING GOING BAD CAUSING WATER PUMP LOCK UP HARD TO TURN.MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT SLIPPING DUE TO BAD BELT TENSIONER.CHECK TO SEE IF COOLING FANS TURN ON WITH AIR CONDITIONER ON HIGH.IF NOT CHECK HEATER + AC IGNITION FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD.YOU HAVE FAULTY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD.CHECK ENGINE OIL IF LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF OIL LOOKS GOOD.YOUR ENGINE CYLINDER BLOCK WATER CORES CLOGGED UP WITH RUST RESTRICTING COOLANT FLOW THROUGH THE ENGINE BLOCK TO REMOVE HEAT AWAY FROM THE ENGINE.BLOCK PROBABLY NEED FLUSHED OUT AT RADIATOR SHOP.

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Coolant leak from upper radiator hose where it meets engine


thermistate housing is the place you refer to it fuction is to hold a thermastate to open and close water flow at 150 to 190 degree according to car spectif the thermaste sticks it causes overheating and can blow the thermastate gasget, the tole cost is about 30$ at most for the thermastate and gasget...now many other things can cause a car to over heat and cause a hose leak and somtimes it is simple to just tighten the hiose clamp at the thrmastate and problem sovled see a water leak causes the radiator to lose presure and thus with out a sealed tight water cooling system the boiling point of water is lower and thus the car over heats when in doubt stop by the local gas station and have a tech take a quick look as it could be simple as the hose clamp difficult as a therm,astate but do not let it go to warp a head gasket as this blown headgasket is what is the end results of running a car to hot

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Ticking sound on 2001 dodge grand caravan 135000mi


Turns out it was the water pump. The plastic impeller on the inside had broken in half- split almost right down the middle. there was just enough of the impeller remaining to attach to the shaft and pump water. Apparently, it was pumping enough to keep the temp under control. So, I never noticed it overheating. The piece that had broken off had gotten lodged in a recessed area inside the pump housing. The ticking noise was being generated as the intact half of the impeller rotated and hit the broken off half.

I narrowed down the problem by removing the belt and cranking the engine temporarily. With the belt off and the pump not turning, the sound was gone. I could spin the pump pulley by hand and faintly hear the noise.

A new pump cost me $35 and took about two and a half hours to replace.

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