Question about GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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JVM239WV001 Stopped working.

GE Spacemaker Model JVM239WV001: Was working fine, then just went dead all around. Not heating, No Lites, No Keypad. Power Circuit-breaker OK and outlet OK. Replaced Fuse behind grille on upper right within unit. Still not working. What next ? Need help.

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  • monababs Jan 22, 2009

    same problem

  • alanjlazar Jan 22, 2009

    Thank you carranzaeb62 for responding.



    Yes, I replaced the internal ceramic fuse (which was 20 amps) even tho the guy at the hardware store tested the original one

    and said it was working, to my disappointment (not exactly sure of his device, but it looked like a basic multi-meter w/ 2 prongs and the needle meter). I replaced it for good measures anyway -- but to no avail (altho i didn't test the new one, assuming it would be good !).



    Are there any other internal fuses for breakers?



    Please let me know what you suggest next.

  • alanjlazar Jan 23, 2009

    Are you perhaps referring to the Thermostat Switch, since I don't believe there is a "flame sensor" in the schemas i've seen -- we are talking about a microwave here (no flames).



    Parts List & basic schema available for reference at:

    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...



    And would even a bad thermostat completely shutdown the entire unit with no power to lites, clock, keypad, etc...?



    Whady'a think ?

  • deendave33 Jan 25, 2009

    With my Advantium 120 Above-the- cooktop oven. We had it set to bake at 450 and it just completely shut down. Luckily the food was done when it happened. So how do I find this flame fuse to reset it?
    Thanks


  • alanjlazar Feb 01, 2009

    Thanks for all proposed solutions:



    For Solution#1, I tried removing & cooling the 'flame sensor' thermostat to no avail, as I don't have a multimeter for actually testing it -- to followup on steps I can try. No progress.



    Solution#2 says the problem is the circuit-board itself, so not much I can do there myself. To troubleshoot/repair the board, I once came across a company website to send-in the circuit-board for repair w/o the costly home repairman -- but can't find that website now -- would you know of it ?



    Any other recommendations overall ?





  • Anonymous Feb 01, 2009

    I have the same trouble the lights and motor work but no heat....

  • roberto serbin May 11, 2010

    You said you replaced the ceramic fuse on inside of unit, 15amp fuse? and one you took off was it bad? Most of them are ceramic fuses and you have to use a continuity tester or ohmmeter to test. Let me know.

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I know that you read the other solutions to your problem. The one you are describing has to do with a power problem altogether. This is the way it typically works> The power coming from your wall goes into the microwave and passes through a bridge rectifier, to go through another set of components that break down the ac to dc, then through a dc voltagle regulator circuit to supply low voltage to the logic circuits that your control panel requires. Your high voltage devices derive their voltage right after it passes through the bridige rectifier through well regulated ac voltage regulators for your ac components such as the magnetron, high voltage capacitor, and high voltage diode. The ceramic fuse and there is only one in the whole unit is to make sure that the wattage that the magnetron is putting out is not outside the range and pulls too much current. So logic here dictates that there for one logic voltages missing from even turning your control panel one. Any type of sensor on a microwave that I know of to date would not do that if it did have that type of sensor. It is those logic voltages that have to be present not just to turn your lights on the control panel or when you open your door but to actually route through relays the correct regualted ac voltages to operate the magnetron to cook to begin with. The relays in the microwaves are dc powered. After the ac voltage passes through bridge rectifier to be changed into dc voltage it is then passed on to the control panel which has the low voltage supply regulators on it to make your control panel work and of course the microprocessor that runs the whole thing. The fuse that you checked in this case of course can be good but your low voltage regulating circuits have an open and not a short and that is why nothing works. It is reasonable to suspect just as well without looking at your schematic that the bridge rectifier before it ever gets to the low voltage regulator supply circuit on the control panel could be open and no voltage ever gets to the control panel. As far as bridge rectifiers go they are notorious for opening up and the reason for that is that even though it looks like one black square piece on the circuit board it consists of 4 high voltage diodes internally the diodes on record for the past 25 years I have been doing component level troubleshooting have a tendency to open and not short. Actually it is against their engineering to short. They were designed to open up the circuit and stop everthing without blowing the fuse. After this long explanation that means that your control panel needs to be replaced or troubleshot on the bench and fixed to find the right component to replace. In this case if I was looking at the schematic I would bet my bottome dollar that a low voltage regulator IC is bad in that circuit. Let me know it has been a privilege to help you.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

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It could be a flame sensor, which is a thermal switch located inside the cabinet on top of the cavity (there may be two of them). One power lead should go to the fuse, the other would go to the flame sensor. Remove the flame sensor and check for continuity. If it shows open (infinite resistance), put it in the coldest part of your freezer for a few minutes, then retest. If it now reads continuity (zero resistance), replace it, put the appliance back together, and see if it works.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • William Lanteigne
    William Lanteigne Jan 23, 2009

    The "flame sensor" is a thermal switch that opens when the temperature exceeds a specific limit- for example, if food is overcooked and ingites, causing a fire (popcorn is famous for burning and ingiting).
    It may also be called a thermostatic switch or an overload switch, but the function is the same; it shuts down power to the entire unit when excessively high temperatures are detected. There are three kinds of bimetal thermal switches- automatic reset, manual reset, and "one time use." Automatic reset switches reset when the temperature drops a specified amount, manual reset switches are reset manually, of course, but some "one time use" switches can reset when the ambient temperature drops below 32 F.

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