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I am new to astronomy. I recently purchased a TA1100 - 102 Reflecting Scope. I have assembled it, but am finding difficulty focusing it. Can you help?

When trying to focus on a image, I just cannot see any image at all. I am wondering if I have assembled the scope correctly. I have followed the instructions that were included with it, but no success.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: focusing problem

it could be the grub screw on the knob needs tightening. If it is loose, the knob will just turn but the shaft wont.

Posted on Mar 15, 2008

SOURCE: Auto Align??? DS-2114ATS-TC

The alignment stars will be nearby BUT MAY NOT BE in the eyepiece-- you must center the alignment stars using the hand controller-- after you center the second star the GOTOs should be OK.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: 150-1400 Newtonian telescope

You must align the finder scope with the main telescope tube--

During the daytime look at something far away in the main scope-- without moving the scope center the cross hairs on the finder scope.

Good luck

Posted on May 15, 2009

  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: can't focus my meade etx-125.

yup there is a mechanical stop to prevent you from cracking the mirror by retracting or extending it too far.. once you break the pin off it needs to go to the factory for dis-assembly as they have to remove the primary to get to it and realign it my 105 did same thing....word of advise use a cable extender for focus not an electric focuser they fail to tell you that it can over run the built in stops making your scope useless...i may be mistaken but i believe the max turns is 25 or about for end to end focusing adjustment on the 125

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

SOURCE: I can not focus the

Some eyepieces will NOT come to focus because the scope does not have enough back-focus, in the focuser. The only thing you can do is try another eyepiece or another eyepiece brand.

Posted on Sep 17, 2011

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The image is of a telescope. This type of scope has only one optical part in the tube, a mirror on the end opposite the focuser end. The smaller tube just goes in to the focuser and it uses a small screw to hold it in place. If the lenses are truly taken apart then there may still be hope as most critical optics are glued together with crystal clear glue.Clean them and reassemble.

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First WHY would you use a erecting DIAGONAL in a reflector style telescope. Upside down images are completely normal for an astronomical telescope. You only need this diagonal for terrestrial viewing NOT for star gazing. ALL astronomical telescopes show upside down and or inverted images- it's completely normal.

If you cannot come to focus with the erecting diagonal, it's probably because the diagonal moves the eyepiece too far OUT away from the point where the scope comes to focus. Again-- you do not use those for night time sky viewing. Just stick the eyepiece directly into the focuser.

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I suggest that you try the telescope first in daylight (NOT pointed at or near the Sun), using the least powerful eyepiece (the one with the largest number). Try it on objects on the horizon, remembering that they will appear upside down. This is a good time to get the accessory viewfinder scope lined up with the main scope, too. It is unlikely that the finder scope will be much use in pointing the telescope until you adjust it to precisely line up with the main scope.

When you have become familiar with the low power eyepiece, try a higher power, which will focus at a different point (and be harder to find objects with). Then try it out at night, on a bright, easily found object like the moon.

The higher the power of eyepiece on a telescope, the dimmer the image, the more difficult to aim it at any chosen object, and the more difficult to focus. Do not use the Barlow lens if one came with the scope. There is a very wide range of movement in the focus mechanism, because different eyepieces focus at different points, but the actual focus range for any eyepiece will be a small part of the overall range afforded by the focusing mount. You will also find the the object you are looking at swims out of the viewing field, and you must continually move the scope to follow it. This will be more pronounced at higher magnifications.

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The power of the scope will be the focal length of the main objective (yours is 800mm) divided by the focal length of the eyepiece, so a 9mm eyepiece will give a higher magnification (and be dimmer and harder to focus and find objects) than a 20mm eyepiece. It is usual to have two or three different focal length eyepieces for viewing different objects.

Starting out, you want to use the lowest power, so the highest number, eyepiece. Do NOT use the Barlow lens if one came with the scope. Try it out during the day (but never point a telescope anywhere near the Sun). This will make it easier to find the focus point. There is a very wide range of movement in the focus mechanism, because different eyepieces focus at different points, but the actual focus range for any eyepiece will be a small part of the overall range afforded by the focusing mount.

It is unlikely that the finder scope will be much use in pointing the telescope until you adjust it to precisely line up with the main scope. Most manuals recommend that you do this in daylight, by pointing the scope at an object on the horizon and adjusting the finder to match. Once you have a tree or mountain peak in the center of the main scopes image, you can then adjust the screws around the finder scope to get the crosshairs centered on the same object. It is very difficult to do this job in the dark, especially as objects in the sky are constantly on the move.

Remember that astronomical telescopes usually show an upside down image. There is a good reason for this- erecting the image needs more bits of glass in the light path, which reduces the amount of light and increases aberrations. Even if this is only slight, astronomers prefer to avoid it, and they don't really care which way up the Moon or Jupiter appear. It is possible to fit an erecting prism or eyepiece to most astronomical telescopes, and some of them come with one.

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You are NOT in focus -- turn the focuser knob until you get an image. Do this during the day time on a distant object. DO NOT use the 2 x barlow if you have one-- only the eyepiece until you learn how to focus the telescope.

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Why do i see a blury target when i look thu the scope with myglasses and it is clear without them


Because your glasses (prescription or reading) are configured to correct your "far" sighted vision deficiency. Even though the scope is located at a very close distance to your eye, the point your scope is focusing to/at is many? yards in the distance. If you're like many of us, you can see satisfactorily at a distance, but your arms aren't long enough to allow you to read a magazine?

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If you are trying to focus at a relatively close distance, you may be overpowering the scopes ability to focus at that distance. Most rifle scopes are set to parralax free at 100 yards.You can see this effect by putting the scope on its lowest power, focusing at 25-50 yards, and then increasing the power setting. You will see the image go out of focus as the power increases. This simply means that you must shoot at longer distances in order to use the scope to its full potential.

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It is NOT in focus.

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The end with the FOCUSER is the UP end. The mirror is the BOTTOM.

Like the picture in your question. The small finder scope is also mounted near the focuser as in the picture above.

You probably have the scope tube mounted upside down !

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The erecting prism can be used for both terrestrial and star gazing-- put it innto the scope first.

The 3x barlow probably will NOT be very useful... it triples the power of any eyepiece. Your small scope cannot go much over 100 power-- before the image degrades.

Put the eyepiece with the BIGGEST number written on it into the erecting prism which you previously stuck into the scope... now go outside during the daytime and practice focusing on a distant object.

The bigger the number on the eyepiece the LOWER the magnification.

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