I had the 'blinks', diagnosed it down to a bad i.c. on the D board, replaced same. (I don't know what was tougher, removing the board, or replacing the I.C.)
Anyway, there is what appears to be a small capacitor in black goo on the BACK side of the D board (just opposite the I.C. I replaced). It ohms open and is outside the capacitance range of my meter(2n to 2M)...(All measured in situ!) A wise tech would replace it IMHO.
What is it, if not a cap, and what voltage rating and value?
Thanking anyone with a schematic in hand, in advance:
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Re: 36XBR400 D board backside capacitor blues
What is the designation (the letters/numbers printed on the board right next to the part) of the part? If it is a cpacaitor then it is cesignated Cxxx, but I have a feeling you are looking at a VDR, or voltage dependant resistor that Sony loves using in their power supplies. A VDR will test completely open on an ohm meter and open on a cpaacitance meter, which means it is good. A VDR that shows resistance on an ohm meter is bad and will probably have a burned resistor (typically 10 ohms) next to it. A wise tech would NOT replace a VDR that measures open!
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check buffer boards for blown chips but before check main board for puffed up capacitors need to replace bad capacitors on main board usually 3300/100v ones bigger ones on board then check buffer boards for blown chips usually bottom buffer board
It sounds like you have bad capacitors on the power supply board. The capacitors in the power supply filter the power, when they fail the power supply can not maintain operation. The blinking is caused by the power supply starting up, shutting down and restarting again. The monitor is repairable, you will need to replace the capacitors on the power supply board. 8 capacitors will need to be swapped out. Here is a link to a repair kit with the correct parts.
The fact that the light is flashing and you can't power up your set is telling me you have a bad power supply board, very common on all makes as the electronics these companies used to build the sets all have a bad bunch of capacitors that wer sold to the industry and they simply don't last. If you handy you can check your tv's boards for bad caps, they will be bulging or splittiting or warped.If you can replace thes that usually helps if nothing else shorted out when the capacitor blew. The boards are available all over the net if you want to try and change the board out for this.
Yes. Might be bad capacitors on the board. Bad capacitors bulge when they break. A repairman might be able to fix it. Although with the right knowledge and 30 dollars for solder, solder iron, and a couple of the right capacitor might do it for you if you know.are a repairman.
The blinking blue light indicates your power supply has blown out. The heat buildup in the case has caused parts called capacitors to blow and short the power supply causing the blinking. We offer a repair service for $30 plus return shipping. If you wan to do the repair yourself you will need to open the back of the monitor and look for the bulging capacitors. To see what the bad capacitors look like go to our site at: www.ccl-la.com Replace any bulging caps that you see and you should be back going. You will need to use high temp capacitors marked 105c. If you have any questions about the repair or repair service just let us know at the address below.
I hope this helps, If so please rate our solution.
I have the same television and the power supply was bad, I had no lights on the front at all so I tried replacing the capacitors on the power supply thinking that would fix it. That did not fix it and I was told that not only do the capacitors go bad but sometimes something else on the power supply board goes bad and is very hard to diagnose without the proper training, so i bought a new power supply board. I put the power supply in and I then had all the lights on the front but the red led light on the power supply was blinking and the lcd would just show the polaroid picture on the screen and would try to light the back lighting but would immediately turn off. I took a blow dryer and slightly warmed up the 5 blue capacitors that are on the main processor board "not the power supply board". 3 of these capacitors are 470uf @ 50 volts and the other 2 capacitors are 470uf @ 25 volts. It appeared that once the warmth did it's trick, it took a few minutes after warming them, the Tv now turns on. I am going to get these five new capacitors and change them on my main processor board (not the power supply board). I am guessing that either one of these capacitors or maybe all 5 are starting to malfunction, 2 of these capacitors do appear to have a slight bulge and crease on the silver top. Watch your screen from behind the tv when turning it on, if you see the backlight turn on for about 2 seconds when the polaroid screen appears and then turn off you may very well have the same 1-5 capacitors malfunctioning on your main processor board. With that said if you feel that the power supply board is functioning as it should be and it sounds like it is then if you do not feel comfortable changing these five blue capacitors on the main board then you could always try replacing the main processor board with a new one. I believe that www.discount-merchant.com or www.shopjimmy.com has this board. Just get the part number directly from your old board and look that number up on their website. It is heart breaking almost using process of elimination when you have to spend money buying boards to accomplish this but I can tell you this, "electronics repair just for checking it out = $100 or more and then the price of the boards so you will reach well over $200 i would think" replacing the power supply cost me $78.00 and even if i have to replace my main processor board that will cost about $60.00 so I am still only at about $138.00, a new LCD tv of this size would cost about 350.00 or more. Now this information is only good considering that you feel comfortable enough changing the circuit boards yourself, be very careful of what you touch and try to touch only the outer edges of the boards.
WHY Force the Arctica to Defrost if it Don�t Want to? Don't
bother using the self-diagnostics feature to force a defrost cycle. On some
models � those with control knobs - which technically are not Arctica models (Arctica
models have plastic liners with touch pads � Standard GE electronic models
with metal liners have knobs) servicers would have to invest in parts to build a
�test� control panel, complete with touch pads and digital displays, to
achieve this (self-diagnostics) function. Instead, save both time and money by
following this helpful Arctica Tip: If a frosted evaporator or a �frost
block� is apparent, initiating a defrost cycle may not reveal anything helpful
anyway. First, disconnect power and then simply check the resistance across the
defrost heater and bimetal circuit at the main board located at the backside.
The two associated wires at the main board are almost always BLUE and ORANGE.
The heater/bimetal circuit should normally read around 30 ohms roughly. Next,
check the evaporator thermister at the main board between thermister input
terminals J1-4 (Blue/White) and J1-5 (Blue) to determine that its resistance is
greater than 1.2k ohms but not more than 166.8k ohms depending on its ambient
temperature. If thermister resistance falls within this range according to
temperature (Approximately: 6k ohms at 70�F � 16.3k ohms at 32�F � 51k
ohms at 0�F) and the heater/bimetal circuit is diagnosed as good, then replace
the main board.
There is a field of capacitors on the power board that usually goes bad. I believe that there is a total of 6. When you look at the power board you should notice them. I have the capacitors if you need them. $2 each. Just check to confirm that they are swollen. and let me know the voltage and uF. good Luck. David
It would seem that you posted twice. My compliments on accomplishing the replacement of the 4 1000 uF/16V capacitors on the DM board.
Toyour concern, the blinking is still there even after having replacedthe caps, a friendly reminder, the capacitors are polarized, there arespecific +/-. Additionally, you may have to check the pico fuses. Theywould be on the backside of the DM board and would be very close nearto the solder points of the 4 caps. They are marked FB900, FB901 andFB902. Rating would be 125V 4amp. Possible source maybe here.
Justa start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additionalinformation. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.