Question about Bosch Classixx WFL 2066 Front Load Washer

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Unable to remove!

I have uncrewed the black outer seal (anti-clockwise) but inside there is a white "plug" when outer seal removed water leaks out but you cannot clean filter!!!!!!!!

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  • bren&izy2 Jan 25, 2009

    Cheers pedropony2

    I managed to tease white part out as you sugested, then remove the obstruction!

    Thanks again

  • cela321 Feb 13, 2009

    aha, I have similar problem. I removed the black seal & found a sock. Now the washer will complete the drain/spin cycle w/o E04 error, however, there is a lot of leaking from underneath (bottom of lip of black cap when the drum drains. (I did tighten the black cap as tight as it would go.)
    I suspect I have to try & remove that white cap to see if any further obstruction--how do I do that? Also, I have a black gasket about 1 1/2" diameter that came off of something when I removed the black cap. I've tried to fit it on the end of the black cap but not really sure where/ how it goes on. Can anyone explain that gasket to me? Thanks!

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The plug you described is supposed to be atached to the piece you have removed.
You will have to tease the plug out with a small flat blade screwdriver.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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When the washer goes unto spin cycle, it makes a loud roaring noise and is leaking from the bottom


It sounds like the tub seal is leaking, allowing water to leak out of the tub and damage the drum bearing. Unfortunately you need specialized tools to replace the seal and bearing, so you may have to get a maytag service agent in to look at it. If you're handy with a welder you may be able to make up a tool yourself, it basically consists of a flat hexagon with tabs on the inside to fit the drum nut, and some handles on it. You'll need to remove the front panel and top panel. Then remove the cap around the top of the tub. The agitator is held on by a small screw near the base of the agitator, loosening it will allow you to remove it. Now you can see the tub nut, this is reverse threaded, so it's loosened clockwise. Then you can lift out the drum. Next on the shaft is the top part of the mechanical seal. Remove the grub screw out the side. Now you'll need the same tool you used for the tub nut to undo the seal, rotating in the same direction. Remove the outer tub by undoing the 3 bolts that fix it to the stays, and disconnect the level tube and drain hose. From here you should have printed instructions that come with the new parts to replace the seal and bearing. Please feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

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Noisey during spin


yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


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1 Answer

Amana washer model LW6501W2 leaks in front during fill up


It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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1 Answer

Water leaking from outer tub


You have to replace the whole tub. that shaft and the seal and bearing are all part of the tub. You would have to take out the basket first. Its a pretty big job but I have done it a couple of times by myself . You need some space and time. good luck if you need more info just let me know.

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1 Answer

Water leaks from main seal


Up front, this project requires specialty tools made by the manufature to remove the seals. You can check with your local parts store or the manufactures web site to purchase them. To remove the outer drum, you have to take the 2 panels off the front and remove the screws underneath that are holding the top of the unit. Lift the top up and lean it back. Next you have to remove the tub ring (the white plastic peice on top of the tub and basket) Next you remove the agitator. Underneath the agitator, there are bolts that hold your inner basket in. Remove these and pull out the basket. Next you have to use specialty Amanna/ Maytag tools to remove the seals that are sitting on top of the center shaft (transmission). Next remove all hoses going to the tub ( some will still have water in them) Lastly there are bolts all of the way around the base of the washer that hold the tub in place.

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