My voltage meter on dash not charging only sometimes!! It's charges!!!
This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...
Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the
regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75
Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test
light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch
first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the
regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test
light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery
ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale
higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any
voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.
Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the
multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins
of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the
TC88 32 amp system.
Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and
frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite
resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle
does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance),
recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground
the stator is shorted (bad).
Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale
setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you
expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one
pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! -
touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000
Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT
shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the
regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).
Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
Oct 27, 2012 |