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240V wall oven,digital readout and oven light come on but no heat

Unit sat in box 17 yrs,still in pristine condition,2 line feeds,1 neutral,1 ground all hooked up and matches circuit panel,digital clock works,oven on light comes on in manual when you set desired temp, but no heater elements.could thermocouple cause this or what other problem am I looking for?

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Bad clock assembly although the clock works the solid state switches internally typically go bad even on brand new ovens,does broil work,the top elements should work?

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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Lights come on but no heat from eyes or oven?


Hello, I really need the make/model number to help you accurately but with the info you've described, I can tell you what to check first. 1st, some oven operating know-how--they operate on 240v AC. That means there are *2 hot wires, each with 120v*, a "neutral" wire, and a ground wire. To power up the control panel, the makers usually just run a wire up from one of the incoming AC supply wires, known as L1 and L2. Importance: it is possible to have the control panel work perfectly, lights and all, and have the problem you're describing--quite possibly THE OTHER 120v supply wire has become disconnected, either at the back of the oven where the terminal block is located, or at the 240v outlet on the wall. Also, the heavy cord with the plug on the end might have corroded/broken/burned up, so check it, too. Also, check that 240v is *getting* to the 240v outlet--this will tell you if the problem is at the panel box or at the oven-end of things. An old outlet might hold one blade of the plug tightly and the other will be too loose to make a good connection. BE CAREFUL WHEN CHECKING ELECTRICALLY HOT CONNECTIONS--240V WILL KILL YOU, DEAD. Make your movements deliberate, be focused, take your time. If you are hesitant about any of this, call for service! I hope I helped you!

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1 Answer

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208 is usually referred to as a singe phase but technically it is poly phase. The industry refers to it as single phase as it is uses one line as power and the other as "Common", not neutral. If the plug has 3 prongs, It is 2 lines of power and an earth ground. If the plug has 4 prongs, It is 2 lines of power, one neutral, and one earth ground. Let me know if you need more.

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1 Answer

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The electronic oven control has gone bad. The repair is a lot less expensive than the replacement of the whole stove. Part number is 903091-9051 at about 165.00 retail. You can fix rather than replace whole stove. Hope this helps.

Mar 04, 2010 | Frigidaire FEB24S2AS / FEB24S2AB Electric...

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Double check the ground and bond wiring. Watch yourself because if the ground wires ARE faulty then you'll be the ground! This could be a very dangerous situation so if in doubt call in a real electrician.

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1 Answer

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Open wire...either ground or neutral.

Lights are 110volt...and possibly there is a disabling feature due to open wire, as stated above, not allowing oven to operate.

When ground and/or neutral are provided all should work.

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1 Answer

Ge double oven - both ovens stopped heating gradually


My first thought is the power supply to the unit.  Cut the breakers and inspect all connections from the fuse box to the oven.  You will likely find open connections or corrosion.  One breaker could also be bad.  Check the voltage with appropriate caution and a voltmeter.  Breakers should respond with a snap when turned on.  
Note: there are two breakers which control the oven: one with a red wire, the other is black.  Each provides 110 volts to the oven in combination with the white neutral.  Together, the black and red give you 220.  If one of the circuits is out or in poor condition, the bulbs might not work and the oven won't either.  

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1 Answer

What coloured wires go where on the main oven thermostat


If you are speaking of the 240v connection to hook up the oven to the electrical source, then white is the neutral(white to white), black is one of the 240v hot wires(black to black), and red is the other 240v hot wire(red to red).
Finally there is a bare or green color ground wire that goes to the bare or green wire form your source.
normally, the two outside wires on a terminal strip are the hot wires and the middle onif the neutral(white). It does not matter which wire(red or black) goes to what hot terminal at the appliance.
If you are talking about the internal wiring, I can get you a schematic of that.

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Your new oven utilizes 220 volts, but it also has some 110 volt features that need a neutral to work properly. Your old oven was wired without the neutral, probably when the house was built. There are 2 answers to your question. #1, no you should have an isolated neutral or common (same thing) wire, so it should have one. #2, if you connect the white on the new oven to the ground wire it will work. The neutral wires are all connected to the grounds at the breaker panel. Look at it if you don't believe me. The ground is there as a safety to you. if you connect the neutral (the white wire on the new oven to ground) you will be eliminating the safety feature on that appliance. So, I do not recommend you connect the white wire on your new oven to the ground wire out of the wall. But if you do it will work, you will just not have any back up protection if there ever is a problem with the electrical on that appliance. I hope this wasn't too confusing, the answer is you will need to wire the oven properly by adding another wire if you want to be completely safe and within electrical codes.

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