Question about Toshiba 36HF72 36" TV

2 Answers

Picture Jumps/flashes for first 5 minutes

I have a Toshiba 36HF72 that when turned on for about the first 5 minutes has a horizontal flashing/jumping/jittering that "tiles" or scrambles the picture. After it warms up the picture has slight vertical (up & down not side to side) wavy lines throughout the picture but mainly noticable at the top. The picture continues to flash every once in awhile (especially when the vcr is playing). The horizontal & verticle deflection sections have been resoldered as well as the power supply section. Freeze spray has no effect on the board after warm up. Tapping, shaking, or flexing the board has no effect nor does probing with a plastic stick. The problem seems to be gradually getting worse. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks :-)

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  • Jack Ewer
    Jack Ewer Jul 25, 2007

    The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)

  • Jack Ewer
    Jack Ewer Aug 11, 2007

    The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)

  • Anonymous Dec 04, 2007

    I have the same problem with a Toshiba 42H82. It started ou as a minor inconvience that lasted 5 minutes or so, but over the last year, became longer and longer. Luckily the PIP feature let me tune both sides to the same channel and let me view on one and listen on the other until it cleared up. However, about a week ago I had togo to this mode exclusively since the set would not clear up. I will try to fix it using the method described in this forum.

  • Anonymous Dec 17, 2007

    I have the exact same problem with my 57H82, it started out minimal and would "warm up" but got progressively worse and now it's at the point of watching right side PIP only. Will take time over the holidays to follow the capacitor replacement procedures here to hopefully fix the problem. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

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I had the same problem and followed the instructions from Jack and my 57h81 is bak up and running. Thanks Jack. RonD

Posted on Oct 09, 2007

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How are you able to get underneath the main board so that you can detach the main part of the silver "box" from the board so that you can unplug the module? this is where i'm stuck. also, the solution lists number cx241 twice but counts it toward the total of 11 caps to replace, can anyone confirm this?

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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