Question about Stanley 42 - 240 Top Read I - Beam Level

1 Answer

Vials leaked

Have replacment vials from Customer service.. How do you replace...  Wood 4' with brass rails

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 10,865 Answers

Obtain a number one phillips screw driver and remove the small screws next to the vial. Pop off the cover and then remove the vial. Insert the new vial and replace the remaining pieces. Good luck

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What is the slope buttons used for


If you have the standard RL-H3C then there are 3 buttons. Starting from the left there is the "height alert" then "manual" then "Power".

Height alert is a function that after the laser levels and spins monitors the position of the laser. If the laser moves more then a tiny amount then the height alert function is tripped, and the laser flashes it's lights and stops spinning (or spins slowly) to let you know the base line position of the laser has changed. Pressing the height alert button twice shuts this mode off.
Manual mode means after the laser is leveled, it completely ignores the level vials. You can turn the laser any way you want to and it will always spin and not cause any errors.
Power is self explanatory.
If it's a RL-H3CS then it has two arrow buttons, that when in manual mode, allot one axis of the laser to be manually adjusted up and down to do a manual slope.

Sep 22, 2014 | Topcon Rlh3c Rotating Laser Level W...

1 Answer

The off level light doesn't turn off therefore doesn't level at all,


Your vial and compensator no longer match up. Move the foot screws until you can get your laser to spin, then adjust your leveling vial until it reads level again, using the 3 screws holding the vial inplace.

Aug 18, 2013 | Spectra Precision Laser LL500 Exterior...

1 Answer

Laser is level but out of level light blinks and will not spin


Your compensator and leveling vial are no longer aligned. Use your foot screws to find a place where the laser spins, then use the 3 hex head screws on the vial, to adjust it to read level.

Dec 23, 2012 | Spectra Precision Laser LL500 Exterior...

2 Answers

My topcon marksmen rl-60b lazer that I bought in 2001 has been unable to activate and project a signal,with the out-of-level light blinking,no matter how perfect I get the bubble in the circle.is this just...


taken from Pauldos Personal Laser Blog,
http://www.pauldos.com/lasers/article.php?article=1193142611
The Topcon RL-50B and RL-60B leveling lasers use a fairly unique compensator arrangement. Most leveling lasers use a suspended compensator arrangement, with a lens or mirror on the pendulum. The pendulum is usually metallic, and inside another metallic barrel, so that an electrical connection between the pendulum and outer barrel indicates to the electronics that the compensator is 'out of range'. The RL-50B/60B has a fluid compensator system where the laser beam is reflected off an interface between the fluid and a window, with the level of the fluid influencing the reflection angle of the laser beam. Because there is no electrical aspect to the compensator, an optical system is used to detect when the compensator is 'out of range'. In the output structure of the laser, a glass window at forty-five degrees is used to reflect a small portion of the beam to a photo detector. When the laser is level, the small portion of laser beam strikes the photo detector.

A common fault with these lasers is to constantly indicate 'out of level'. This occurs when there is insufficient beam intensity on the photo detector. The standard solution for this fault is to clean the 45 degree window. Sometimes, this does not bring the laser back to life. I have stripped down a couple of these lasers to try and figure out what is going on.
At first, I thought that maybe the laser diode could be down on power, reducing the available beam, but I quickly discounted that, because the laser diode output is feedback controlled, so the output power is stable up until the point of complete failure. One of the units I disassembled had cracks in the compensator housing, and the fluid level was low. I don't know whether the fluid leaked or evaporated, but in either case, there was no way the compensator could be repaired. In another unit, I noticed that the fluid was discoloured. Since I don't know what the composition of the fluid is, I don't know what could cause it to discolor. Perhaps extremes of heat or cold may damage the fluid. If the fluid is discolored, that may reduce the available laser power at the output. The question is, can we compensate for this? (pun not intended)

I decided to reverse-engineer the photo diode circuit, and see if there was any way to improve it. There is. The photo detector amplifier is a standard op-amp inverting amplifier. The feedback resistor, surface mount R23, is 470K. I changed this resistor to 680K to increase the gain of the amplifier, and bingo! the laser works like a real one again. Extensive testing in the workshop and in the field shows that the laser functions as originally designed in all ways. I have done this modification to over fifty of these lasers now, and the modification extends the life of the laser anywhere from a few months to a few years, with the average about one and a half to two years. Customers are always happy to not have to buy a new laser for another year or so, so this modification is always embraced when offered. I have never figured out what is going on with the fluid, but since I have a solution (again, pun not intended), I don't care.

cleaning instructions :
Remove the housing. Remove the battery holder. Loosen two small silver grub screws on the turret. Lift turret off. Clean slant window with acetone and a cotton bud. Avoid smearing the glue in the corners over the window. Flatten and curve a cotton bud to clean the inside of the slant window. Clean the folding mirror under the slant window. Replace the turret. Turret has a small amount of play, so align it for best operation before tightening grub screws. Re-fit battery holder and housing. All done!

Sep 18, 2011 | Topcon Rlh3c Rotating Laser Level W...

1 Answer

I am attempting to make rail and stile doors for an entertainment center. I am getting a rippled effect in the routed area of the wood. What am I doing wrong?


There can be several things you are doing wrong. First make sure your router bits are sharp. Also you may be feeding the wood through the bit too fast this will affect the finished cut.Just try on some scrap to change feed speeds until you get it right because if you feed to slow then you may get burning.Also a feather board might help if you have one. It will keep the wood firm against the bit and stop chattering as the wood passes over the bit. I am assuming you are using a router table?? If not you should be as these bits are designed to be used on a router table.

Mar 13, 2011 | Rockler Ogee Reversible Rail & Stile Bit

1 Answer

The nails are not fully shooting into the material and air seems to be shooting by or leaking out.


Assuming that the air leakage is from the nailing head area, you probably have worn-out 'O' ring seals that surround the drive shaft below the piston and also around the piston itself. Remove the cylinder head and pop the tool (upside down) on a piece of wood so that the piston and rod drop out of the cylinder. Check the piston and rod assembly for excess wear and replace if necessary. You should be able to access the shaft seals when the piston is out. You may have to order a repair kit for the unit if you can't find proper sized O rings. Make sure to use 'air-tool' oil frequently when the tool is in use. If you seem to have excessive wear of the tool, you may need to service the compressor intake filter more frequently. If the tool doesn't drive the nails fully, increase the air pressure somewhat until it does (after your repairs). Hope this helps!

Mar 03, 2010 | Measuring Tools

1 Answer

On My CST berger 32X automatic level unable to hold vial bubble center as instrument is rotated 180 degrees - instructions say to use vial adjustment screws to correct this problem...this does not seem to...


take a topedo level and get the tripod base as level as possible. attach your level to the tripod. put all screws in the middle and level it. turn 180 degrees, level it. turn 180 and check. if withing the bubble, turn 90 degrees and level. turn 180 and so on and so forth. the adjustments should be slight from turn to turn. make sure the feet are secured firmly in the ground. If this does not level the automatic level, it needs sent in for calibration. I dont know the web address but I hope this helps

Dec 21, 2009 | RTO CST/Berger 55 - SLVP32N 32X SAL...

2 Answers

Cant calibrate laser


You must place the unit 30' from a wall, level the unit with the level indicating vials, mark spot on wall or object, rotate laser 180 degrees and level with vials again, if it comes to the same spot your unit is calibarated. if not then you must do this process at least 2 times(1 for each directional level) and use the adjusting screw to move vial. it takes a while to get it right.

May 04, 2009 | Robotoolz RT-5250-2XPK ePlane XP High...

1 Answer

How do you replace the bubble in a starrett 98 Level


Contact me at Starrett and I can email you the instructions on how to change the vial only if you want. The other option is to purchase a new tube and plug assembly (the silver tube with the vial). That is much easier to do. After, you can always send the old one in for repair. Third option is to send out the tube and plug assembly to be repaired.
Most people will change the vial only the first time, after that they go with option 2 or 3.

My email is pnault@starrett.com

Starrett Tech Support

May 04, 2009 | Starrett 50443 12 Machinists' Improved...

1 Answer

Dovetail leave a 'light gap'


This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

  1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
  2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
  3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
  4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
  5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.

Feb 23, 2009 | Porter Cable Porter-Cable 4216 12" Deluxe...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Stanley 42 - 240 Top Read I - Beam Level Logo

Related Topics:

72 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Stanley Measuring Tools Experts

Lawrence Oravetz

Level 3 Expert

7686 Answers

Andrew Taylor
Andrew Taylor

Level 3 Expert

10718 Answers

ray gallant

Level 3 Expert

36432 Answers

Are you a Stanley Measuring Tool Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...