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Compresser will not get all the way to 135#

It keeps on runing

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Replaced fuel lines and filter will not keep runing


I would remove the carburetor and blow out the jets in it with compressed air, they likely have a piece of dirt in one or more of them

Oct 17, 2016 | Garden

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1974 evinrude 135 hp strangler motor won't start


Has it got spark,does it have compression,are the carbs clean

Oct 08, 2014 | Boating

1 Answer

Popping on acceleration


It could be a problem in the valve train. For a car that old, before putting new parts in, you could buy a compression tester for about $30, and do your own compression test. It should tell you if the engine is good enough internally to warrant proceeding. If compression is low on any cylinders, that problem must be addressed first. If a valve is not sealing and causing the popping, that cylinder will show low compression.
For the test, the engine should be at normal operating temperature. Then pull all the plugs out, connect tester to #1 spark plug hole. Have a helper hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine over about 5 seconds. Watch the gauge-the first revolution or two will cause the gauge to jump high at first, and successive revolutions during the 5 second span will cause the needle on gauge to climb a little each time. Record or note the compression on #1, then do each cylinder. Try to do the same amount of cranking on each cylinder, and keep the throttle wide open. What you want are compression readings on each cylinder that is well above 100 psi, and all should be close. The lowest reading should be within 75-85% of the highest reading cylinder. Example: say your highest reading is 135 psi. 85% of 135 is 115-so your lowest reading should be at least 115 psi. Some general guidelines: any cylinder with compression below 100 psi is definitely a problem-that cylinder will not have hardly any power output, even if it is firing. Worn piston rings or poor valve sealing is causing compression loss. A newer engine should have compression readings above 150 psi. As the engine wears, compression will drop. In general, for high mileage engines, you would want to see compression in the range of 125-150 psi, the higher the better, but remember, it should be balanced-the lowest should be at least 75% of the highest reading cylinder.
Post back if you have questions-good luck.

Jan 26, 2014 | 1983 Oldsmobile Firenza

1 Answer

What is the Compression supposed to be for a 1987 Toyota Pick up 22R with carb, 4 cyl.???


A new engine would be about 180 psi for each cylinder. As the miles add up and wear occurs, compression will get lower. The important thing is that compression is even and balanced-lowest compression reading should be within 75% of the highest cylinder's compression. Some Toyota engines had a minimum allowable compression of about 135 psi, but if compression is balanced, you could have average compression as low as 125 psi and engine would still run good, some loss of power but still acceptable, and oil consumption would not be that bad.
If cylinder compression is below 120 psi as an average, you should be looking into a rebuild event-rings and valves need attention. If any cylinder is below 100 psi, it may not even fire, certainly will produce no power, and could be a head gasket failure, very worn rings, or valve problems.
Remember the important thing is to find compression readings that are very close to each other. I have an '87 Sentra with 75,000 miles(true!)-lowest comp. is 160, highest is 165 psi-runs great, good power. Also a '79 Datsun pickup (with god only knows how many miles-about 200,000 maybe). Compression is about 125-135 psi, fairly well balanced-noticeable loss of power, very little oil burning, still runs fair to good-dependable, at least.
That should give you an idea of what to look for. Good luck.

Aug 29, 2013 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

My nissan 1997 quest engine was changed and since then it has not started after it was runed for about 2 hrs. what could be the problem


Crank and wont start or wont crank too? Are you check firing order, compression and fuel pressure? Could be theft system? Scan the PCM to know if some fault code is stored!

Keep us updated.

Feb 16, 2011 | 1998 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

I have a ryobi cs30 and a having problem to keep it runing. The only way to keep it runing is with the choke haft close. I try the mix, put aditive on a gas, changed the hoses to the tank and nothing...


It is not getting enough fuel, the jets or ports in the carb are dirty and need to be blown out. There should be two covers on the carb, top and bottom. One contains a diaphragm and needle and seat and the other a diaphragm and valves. Carefully blow compressed air into the passages you see but be careful that you do not loose the little screen you will see in one of the holes (about 6mm in size). When everything is clean the motor should run fine again. Keep an eye on your fuel in future. Make sure it is clean before refueling your machine.

Feb 13, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

2003 polaris preditor 500 engine smokes and burns oil. compression is 135 and engine still runs strong. What do you think is the problem


If you still have good compression, and motor runs strong, then the problem is in the head, eg, usually valve stem seals, letting oil in the cylinder. Have your head reconditioned, valve grind, and some new valve stem seals should solve the problem. It is fine to keep riding it, just keep your eye on the oil level, as it will be burning oil.

Aug 31, 2010 | Honda vt 500 ft ascot Motorcycles

1 Answer

Honeywell HFD 135 FAN BLADES DIRTY


I used a can of compressed air to clean my fan blades and this did the job. I bought a 6-pack of 3M Dust Remover at Sams Club to save money. Hope this helps.

George

Dec 18, 2007 | Kaz Honeywell QuietClean HFD-135 Air...

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