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The passenger side axle shaft is the longer of the two. It is more prone to this problem since it is more unwieldy to handle. Chances are you did not get the axle shaft seated completely when you installed it. There is a snap ring on the spline that inserts into the transaxle and this ring must lock into its seat or the inner joint will vibrate loose and come out. It is fairly easy to seat it when installing, but care must be taken to avoid damage to the axle shaft. Once you insert the spline into the transaxle, press it firmly inward until you feel resistance. Then pull back on the axle shaft about 2 inches, but no more than that. You don't want to separate the inner boot or unseat the inner tri-pot bearings. Then, push the axle shaft forward quickly and firmly, much like a slide hammer. This will snap the shaft into the seat. You will feel it when it seats in. If once doesn't do it, repeat as necessary.
The switch has to be replaced, pure and simple since the on /off part of it is bogus. If you want, you can bypass the on off switch part with a toggle switch and continue to use the pot since it is probably still good to adjust volume.
Yes, Some gibson electric's have long shaft pot's, they will still fit but you will need to use another nut to adjust the pot's so they do not stick through the body to far. Knobs should fit unless the old gibson's are solid shaft. Then you will need new knobs. Many guitar parts places on net to order standard pots and even wiring kits. Try Allparts, , www.guitarelectronics.com/,, Guitar ******, then www.stewmac.com/
Remove the bucket and look up inside the tank. There will be a finger loop to help pull the filter from it's track. You can shake it clean by wrapping a garbage bag around the tank, squeezing the air from the bag ( so it doesn't puff dust back at you)and then wrapping the bag over your hand and reaching up towards the filter. This filter has a flat metal spring in it and will snap back into place. It is not normally removed unless it has gotten damp or stinky from pet odour. It is weighted in the middle with heavy beads in a sewn pouch.
Faulty Direct Drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate) The
Direct Drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore
brands washingmachines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct
drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the
shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.
It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading. All functions operate normally except the machine will not agitate.
The agitator is driven
by a couple of different methods. The first is the agitator is splined
and slips onto the matching splines of the agitator shaft from the
transmission. The second is the use of a bell coupling which is splined
to the agitator shaft as well and the agitator snaps onto the coupling.
If the agitator does not agitate, first remove the agitator and watch
the agitator shaft to see if it is working properly. This will require a
small load setting of water and the machine set to run. If the agitator
shaft is working properly, it is either the splines on the agitator or
the bell coupling that is defective. If the agitator shaft does not
work properly, the problem is in the transmission.
Last the huming may be the motor is sized! Done, finished! This is not a do it your selfer job
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It means that the volume pot is dirty.You need to find a way to get some WD-40 into the pot.This usualy requires that you take the access to the inside off and spray right inside the pot.Once you do this move the volume dial from min to max a few times and it should fix it.
try to clean the vol. control with some elctronics parts cleaner, it comes in an aresol and you spray it into the pot, the crackling is dust or dirt in the potentiometer<pot> this is a common problem on older machines that havent been used in a while or live in a dirty enviorment.
I had the same issue. My C340 fell of the dash and the volume control (potentiometer) broke off and was rattling inside the case. I tried to find a replacement (103B stamped on the pot) but have not been able to find one. I tried a mini 10K ohm pot from Radio Shack, but the posts were not properly positioned for the circuit board inside the Garmin.
I took the easy way (for now) and simply strapped the two control points together with a piece of wire giving me maximum volume. Orient the circuit board with the missing volume control to at the bottom right. The control mounts with 5 points, two on the right edge of the board are simply physical mounts. There are three other connection points just to the left in a slight arc. The top and bottom point have holes to place the legs of the pot. The broken off legs may still be in these holes. Solder a piece of wire between the top and bottom points. Be careful since the solder pads (to the left of the holes are very delicate.
If you can't clean the pots or if you just want to try replacing them, try using
500k pots again, in case one or both of the pots is worn or dirty or
defective. If that doesn't work, and cleaning or replacing the
switches doesn't work, then the problem is probably elsewhere. You could put a 500k resistor (with a sufficiently-high power rating of at least half the power rating (Watts) of the pot) in parallel with the pot, or, to cover all bases, put a 500k resistor from each of the two outer lugs of the pot to the middle lug. That should change it into the equivalent of a 250k pot. You could even just temporarily clip the resistors on, with alligator-clip leads, if you're very careful, just to test it.