Question about Lakewood 792/JR Utility Heater
The front knob on the tip over switch that controls the heat settings is broken and had come off the heater so you cannot turn the heater off or adjust the temperature settings.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Follow up to my post of 13 January. Out of desperation, I took the heater apart and determined that an electrical fuse-like thermal overload device had opened on the neutral side of the feed to the heating element thus rendering the unit non-working. This device is wrapped in a sheath around the underside of the heating element's electrical connections where the element enters the radiator's core. If the element exceeds the rated temperature it apparently "blows" or electrically opens much like a fuse. The lights still come on but no electricity is getting to the element. When I removed this from the circuit, the the unit began making heat. Apparently, when the heater is on full (both switches on for the full 1,500 watts) the core temperature gets too high. So, I now use my heater on only the 900 watt setting and it's putting out plenty of heat. Today's high is 2F and the room is comfortable. I've no doubt the manufacturer would not condone this modification and I have no intention of turning my modified heater back on "HIGH." Therefore I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are competent in electrical and soldering work and are sure you won't overheat the unit. Having said that Lakewood clearly has either a design flaw or a bad batch of heater elements or overload protectors out there. When I have time, I'm planning to send my defective protector back to them with a letter. But given that they never responded to my e-mail to their customer service don't expect much in the way of a reply. As they say on TV, don't try this at home.
Posted on Jan 31, 2008
SOURCE: ROCKER SWITCH DIAGRAM
On the top of the switch (inside the heater) there is a common connection.....even though it looks as if it is connected (electrically), it isn't electrically affected by the switch; it's just used as a post. It's just the place where the striped wire connects to the "common" point for the heater coils (they are in a parallel). Also, while you're in there you might want to put some electrical grease on the exposed conductors.....mine had quite a bit of corrosion (which was the reason for the failure). I had to replace 3 of the female connectors.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
The reason that it stopped is an open circuit. It is probably a blown thermal fuse. However, it could be any of the following if that is not the problem:
bad switch, broken or disconnected wire, burned open heater element, bad connections between terminals and wires, or between wire connectors and the wires within them.
If you take it apart, you will find the heat sensitive thermal fuse device under the heating elements, near the bottom of the unit. If the thermal fuse is good, it will appear as a short to an ohmmeter (zero ohms). If it is failed, it will appear as an open (infinite ohms).
The thermal fuse device can be replaced. Here is where to get one:
The thermal fuse may be this one, but check the temperature indication on yours first: Item#: TH-TF167C
Posted on May 10, 2010
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