Question about Marantz SR5003 Receiver
Was trying to fix static coming from front left speaker turned off reciever when it turned on center channel excursion now receiver will not turn on and has a red (fast) blinking light
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Strange dramas you are having there. I would suggest first, that you switch the unit off overnight(unplug at the wall) to allow for a fulll hard reset. Then fire it up in the morning again, and see if it behaves itself. I found a user manual for you online here
It is a good amp that you have, and hopefully resetting it will sort it out for you. If not, please do get back to me here and we shall look deeper..
Thanks for using FixYa, a FixYa rating would be great for looking into this for you. Happy to help further :)
Posted on May 08, 2008
The f-l channel of the sr18, & sr18ex & sr19 is a common failure location due to the heating and cooling over the years. The crackling an/or distortion, is most commonly due to the amplifier going into a high idle, or d.c. offset that can no longer be controlled by the adjustment potentiometers on the board. usually the two 2sc3200 transistors become unstable, and as well a 47mfd and a 470 mfd elect. caps nearby. Also distortion is caused by one or more of the zener and germanium diodes all grouped near the big dual ceramic white resistor. The amp block is held in by six screws. first remove the cross bracket, then cut the cable tie free from the hole on the board. Ten screws hold the top board on, the pull the boards apart from the connectors. before replacing it, resolder ALL of the connector pins to BOTH boards.
Posted on May 27, 2009
There is a 1 Farad "super capacitor" that needs to be replaced. You need soldering skills to do it. The board is accessible if you remove the front panel of the receiver. The part # is DB-5R5D105; you can get them on eBay for about $2.00 each. Regarding the center channel issue, you may have a bad solder joint on the P781 connector on the P774 board. This is the board that houses the output transistors for the 3-channel main amp board (P704). If not these solder joints, you have a weak driver transistor on P704, and troubleshooting would probably be best left to a pro. Good luck!
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
If you don't use the remote control is it okay? If so, tear apart your remote control, use a Q-tip to clean all the lines in the circuit board where the rubber contacts touch. Then make sure that the rubber buttons don't have any 'gunk' on them that are making them stick. Clean the rubber pad with a qtip with dishsoap. Dry well, put back together and see if she works. Report back on your success. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
The most common problem found on FixYa for Audio Video Receiver's is:
My receiver say's "Protect" or turns on then off. What's wrong? Seven times out of ten it is a shorted speaker or speaker wire. To determine your exact problem, the first step is to disconnect all speaker wires "at your receiver" Next: Turn the receiver back on. If your receiver still says "protect" or turns off, it needs to be serviced. If your receiver stays on; reconnect your speakers one at a time and power back up after each speaker. You may find that after reconnecting all speaker wires it works! Most commonly the small braids of wire from the + to the - have touched and have caused the problem. In some instances, you noticed the problem only when turning the volume up. either way, make sure the exposed wires to your receiver are no longer than 1/2" long and are completely under the screw down terminal or slide in. When you've found the wire or speaker with the problem, your receiver will go back into "protect" At this point, disconnect the wire from the speaker at the speaker that may be causing the problem then test again.* Note* Make sure speaker wires do Not touch each other as this Will cause a short! If you turn the receiver back on and it stays on, you now know the problem is in your speaker itself. To test your speaker, you will need a multimeter. Set it to ohms resistance and touch the speaker terminals, if there is a short internally the meter will read "1......" If it's an analog meter, it will peg to the right. There's your problem. Now, within any speaker there are quite a few possibilities as to what could be causing the problem. Most common is a blown coil and the speaker needs to be replaced. Some speakers have internal crossovers (usually floor standing speakers) and may have a shorted or burnt board (usually very visible brown burn marks on the board) and can possibly be repaired if your handy with a soldering iron. Now, if you disconnect the speaker wire at the speaker and it still says "protect" Check your wire for the obvious cut or nail thru the wire if possible. If your system has wiring that runs behind walls, you may need to use your meter again. Disconnect the wire at both ends, keep the ends separated, put your meter on ohms resistance and touch probes to the + and - wires at one side. If the meter pegs to the right or reads "1...." the wire is shorted and needs to be replaced or repaired at the short. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 14, 2010
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