Question about Maytag MBF2556KE (251 cu ft) Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Maytag mff2558veb refridgerator not cooling, fan is running, freezor is fine

I shut off power for 45 mins. and turned back on but still the same. Don't see much ice build either.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: lights flashing all cooling appears normal ice maker flap continually opens and shuts no water buttons not operational

As I mentioned before my Maytag was doing the same thing, I called Maytag expecting a big fight but they were really nice about it.
This is a recall problem and even if your warrenty is up Maytag will repair it at NO COST to you.
They shiped me the HV board and sent a repairman who had it fixed in about 10 minutes with a newley designed HV board.

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag side by side freezer ice build up

I HAVE A MSD2454GRW, 23.5 CU, MAYTAG AND ICE BUILDS UP ON THE FLOOR OF THE FREEZER TO A POINT WHERE IT RUNS ON THE FLOOR. CAN CLEAN IT OUT AND 12-15 HOURS LATER, ITS BACK.

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: ice building up in bottom of freezer of side by side MSD27 Maytag

Your defrost drain tube is clogged up. Remove the ice and look for the top of a drain tube about 3/8-1/2" in diameter. Once the ice is gone, use a meat baster (turkey baster) full off hot water stuck in the top of the drain tube and blast hot water through to clean it out. Do this several times with about 4 cups of hot water so you don't over flow the drain pan and flood the floor

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: maytag refridgerator model MSD2651HEW refridge not cooling properly

my water dispencer has a low flow after an initial regular flow. why?

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4066 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1999 Maytag Plus side by side

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

If the ice is on the floor of the freezer
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
OR
If the ice is on the back of the freezer
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.




Posted on Oct 13, 2009

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