Question about Honeywell Heating & Cooling
For the last several months this heater runs for a few minutes and then shuts off. I suspect some temperature sensor may have gone bad. Anyone know how to repair this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: heater keeps shutting off !!
I have model 5532, but I think they all have the same problem. There seems to be a safety device in the ceramic heater that turns off if it gets too hot. It "remembers" when this happens as well and will shut off until it is unplugged for 10-15 minutes.
This happens on even lightly used heaters if used in dusty conditions. Dust builds up behind the ceramic heater and the lack of flow causes it to overheat. The unit must be dismantled and the dust brushed/vacuumed out. The good news is that not only will the heater work again, but it will have better airflow too!
To do this, tech support and other people say to "clean the rear grill", but my rear was not dirty. The front grill had some dust that I vacuumed clean, but did not help. In my unit there are no filters before the air goes through the heater element. The problem is in the center of the heater. Taking out the internal fan (four screws on the sides of the squirrel fan box), I could see that the radiator was over half covered in dust. I cleaned that dust out using a shop vac and the problem went away.
Opening the heater was a little tricky, two of the screws were triangle head screws. Once inside, however, it is a simple proceedure to remove the fan. Of course, you should unplug the heater and wait a while before opening it up to make sure there are no electrical charges stored in the unit.
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
SOURCE: heater won't stay on
This product does indeed have a problem with the safety switch, that is only supposed to kick in when the unit is turned over. I had a total of 3 units sent to me from Kaz. Each time the unit would work for a short time, then slowly begin to turn off and on. I finally decided to take the unit apart and look for any obvious problems. There is a weighted swivel that will raise a contact point to turn the unit off in an emergency. The contact points would spark off and on, depositing a black carbon on them until they would no longer allow power to pass through. I cleaned the contacts with a fine finger nail file and bent one of the contact arms inward to make better tension between the contacts. This allowed the unit to stay on for longer periods of time. But even with the thermo-stat turned all the way up, the unit does not stay on long enough to heat the room. In effect, what happens is the contacts will continue to ark, putting black deposits on the contacts until you're back to square one. Apparently the unit also has a thermo-stat related problem. I'm sending the unit back again (they only made me send the power cord last time), but will insist on a different model this time. Good Luck
Posted on Feb 24, 2008
Problem: firs let's identify the problem, there is a sensor on the inside panel, made originally for safety if you tipped the heater off, it kill the power causing it to turn off...after a year of so that sensor get a little rusty/dirty causing it not to work correctly...
let's find out how to fix that annoying turn off..
tool needed, a phillip screw driver.. electrical tape or soldering unit..
fixing it: take out the top and bottom screws, to open the panel. after you open the panel you'll see a metal bar screwed to the front controller...take all 6 screws out...the front panel comes off....then there is about 4 screws holding an inner box, open that up..
inside there, you;ll see lots of wires...look for 2 small blue wire running together to a black sensor that make noise everytime you move it....
disabling the sensor
2 ways you can do this..
-you can cut the wire off using a scissor, and connect the blue wires together, use the tape to tape them.
- you can solder them together on the back of sensor panel...
there you go problem solved...
Posted on Mar 25, 2008
i have the same problem ... i almost throw this heater out ,,
the fix .. open the unit theres 6 screw at the back.. remove it if you have problem removing the triangle screw use the small square head screw ...size 0 and then you also need to open the black plastic ..
i believe it has 8 screws .. then vaccuum all the dust .. chances are the front and the back of the heating element is covered with dust ..
after that put all back together and i guaranteed it should work like brand new ,,,, dont worry its not that hard ... the only hard thing for me was removing the 2 triangle screws at the back .. Goodluck
Posted on Feb 23, 2009
it only shuts down because of an overheating condition or the lack of fuel. if you have an ohm or multimeter, check the ohms on the fan and see if you have any resistance. If you do the fan is good but may still not be putting enough air across the heat exchanger to safely alloww the heater to run without causing a fire.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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